cost of adding rear remotes and 3rd function

[MtnViewRanch]

What is the difference between a DA and SA valve?

4 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND

Looking here to put together a stack valve I have 2 DA cyl spool w/ detented float (thinking TnT here)
one DA cyl spool with detented 3 position float (thinking for holding flow on for 3pt wood splitter)
what about the 4th valve SA or DA ?? what are the differences here. I don't see any SCV as options, but thinking they might be handy.

SA is a single acting hydraulic. This equals pressure to extend and gravity to retract. Not something that many people use on a tractor anymore.

DA is double acting. Pressure to extend and to retract. Cylinder can be in any position and still work properly.

 

[ENC]

Thanks that's kinda what I figured but wasn't sure. Like a bottle jack. Yeah not much point in that.

 

[My Hoe]

Two things I like bout flat face couplers. They don't drip when uncoupled. They don 't collect dirt in the female end. Can easily wipe off the surface and couple.

To ovrszd and MtnViewRanch:

Thanks for the info--for the additional money, I'd much rather have less/no drip, and not have to worry so much about getting dirt in the female ends--flat-faced, it is!

Much appreciated.

 

[clee4020]

Ovrszd,
I have thought about adding the 3rd function to my 9540. Is the control switch electric and how "waterproofed" is it? Right now I run my grapple from rear hydraulic lever. My tractor doesn't always make it back to the barn and spends some nights outside.

You have to decide what you want in the end.

I've gathered components and added rear remotes and 3rd function, similary to what Brian sells.

I've also bought factory add ons.

Only you can decide which is best for you.

Currently I have 3 rear remotes and true 3rd function on the FEL with no exposed bracketry, odd located levers, or clustered hoses.

It's totally up to you what you want.

After a few hundred hours of operation, what it cost you will become irrelevant and you'll only remember the useability.

 

[Rustyiron]

Ovrszd,
I have thought about adding the 3rd function to my 9540. Is the control switch electric and how "waterproofed" is it? Right now I run my grapple from rear hydraulic lever. My tractor doesn't always make it back to the barn and spends some nights outside.

The "factory" unit that I have seem's to be able to withstand the elements. There is a (lighted) button to power up the switch/solenoids and 2 buttons on the knob on the loader joystick that control the direction of the flow.

 

[clee4020]

What is cost of adding 3rd function to a 9540? And I wonder what it would cost to add a third rear remote?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Factory rear remote should be about $840. Factory 3rd function about $1000.

All just guesses. Worth every cent if you need them though. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Yeah, memory serving, I think Brian is pretty close. I went for Kubota stuff on both. Was after a neat and organized install and lever setup.

I'm having some issues with air getting into my TnT cylinders. Haven't figured that problem out yet. I'll post a thread if/when I resolve that issue.

I use my 3rd function on the front a LOT.

The only time I use all 3 rear remotes is when carrying my Box Blade that has hydraulic scarifiers.

 

[clee4020]

I assume the $840 & $1,000 are Kubota parts only, no labor cost? Or did u install them yourself?

 

[npalen]

Yeah, memory serving, I think Brian is pretty close. I went for Kubota stuff on both. Was after a neat and organized install and lever setup.

I'm having some issues with air getting into my TnT cylinders. Haven't figured that problem out yet. I'll post a thread if/when I resolve that issue.

I use my 3rd function on the front a LOT.

The only time I use all 3 rear remotes is when carrying my Box Blade that has hydraulic scarifiers.

I was having the air problem in particular with the top link cylinder on the TNT. Brian (MountainViewRanch) at Fit Rite Hydraulics recommended and sent restrictor fittings which solved the problem. The air problem was caused by the load on the top link cylinder was outrunning the pump capacity. The restrictors slow the cylinder down to let the pump keep up.
The restrictors were 1/32" (.032) diameter orifice which I drilled out to .036" to let the 2" bore x 1 1/4" rod cylinder move a bit faster. It is still a little slow and probably need to drill out a couple more thousandths. Doesn't take much to make a difference in speed. Going from .032" to .038", for example, is a 40% increase in orifice area. Don't want to start over running the pump again.