Okay I get what you are saying about doing the install myself and saving $$. I am not against this at all. What I am missing though is the rest of the stuff I am going to need. I know I can source the hoses locally but what am I going to need to hook them to on the tractor side? What kind of fittings do I need for the rear remotes? Also what are the advantages of having float in the rear remotes? I understand the float function on the loader and the 3pt but I am not sure of the application in my rear remotes. I am not sure I am going to get a TnT kit, however, I do want to run a wood splitter and maybe have some hydraulic scarifiers on a Box blade. I am sure onve I have the hydros there will be lots of options.
Basically just wanting to know the steps/parts that aren't being listed. Thank all of you for everything so far.
Also I don't seem to have a lot of faith that what I am asking for from the dealer and what he is quoting me for are the same thing. He just keeps saying 2 position valves on the rear remotes, and I want to make sure they are going to do what I want.
If you plan to keep this tractor for a long period of time, and if you plan to use the hydraulics you are buying, it becomes critical to get what you need, setup in a manner that you want/like.
I think everyone in this discussion will agree, you can't have too much hydraulics on a tractor. Also, your needs will grow and if you shortcut now, you'll be disappointed later.
Here's my opinion of ideal rear remotes. No less than three.
One SCV (self canceling valve) to use with hydraulic lift pull type implements such as a wheeled disc or field cultivator. Also can be used powering a 3pt splitter without having to use a bungee cord to hold the valve open as you would with a 2 position valve. My boxblade has hydraulic scarifiers which are ran by the SCV which works very slick.
Two float valves. These will be your multiple use valves and will be used the most. Mine are normally plugged into my TnT. I use the top link in float most of the time when using my 3pt brush cutter. Also use the side link in float when using a Boxblade and wanting to follow the contour of the terrain.
Plan for maximum use of your hydraulics!!!
As to what your dealer is selling you. Take a little time and sharpen your hydraulic knowledge so you can logically talk to the dealer/salesman about all this. Know the difference in a 2 position valve, a float valve and a SCV valve. If the salesman seems ignorant about it, talk to the mechanic in their shop. But find someone there that can answer these question so you know exactly what you are getting.
As to build your own. Look this tractor over carefully. Where would you mount the valves/levers? Where are the factory levers located? How will you run the plumbing? Is there space for all this on the fender or wherever you would choose to mount? If all you see is problems with a build your own location, then you better go factory regardless of price or you will be disappointed in the end result.
Good luck with your choices and keep us posted!!!
