Couple questions about trail grading, and hydraulic top links/top and tilt

MtnViewRanch · Aug 14, 2019

ericm979 said:
Some companies also make non ROBB box blades that have a single lever to raise or lower all the rippers at once. I have one from Gearmore. I could operate it from the tractor seat if I had a lot of upper body strength. The one time I tried it I pulled a muscle in my back hard enough to make me wish I'd spent the extra few hundred for hydraulic rippers. After that I get off and use two hands.

I'm sure the ROBB is better for the other reasons you mentioned though. Weight definitely makes the blade dig in deeper.

Every once in a while I want to lower just one ripper, usually in an attempt to pull out a stump or rock in the middle of leveling something with the BB. It's rare though.

There are always exceptions to about everything and circumstances where one type simply works easier-better than another.

Overall the commercial hydraulic actuated scarifier units are the best, that's why all the industrial machines have them, but they are by far the most costly units to get. The hydraulic actuated units replaced the ROBB units in the commercial market back in the 1980s. The ROBB units are great for people that have no rear remotes and don't want to get them. And as you mentioned, there are std style box blades that also have a single lever type engaged rippers also.

Something for just about everyone's needs, just need to look and ask questions.

bridge4 · Aug 15, 2019

MtnViewRanch said:
There are always exceptions to about everything and circumstances where one type simply works easier-better than another.

Overall the commercial hydraulic actuated scarifier units are the best, that's why all the industrial machines have them, but they are by far the most costly units to get. The hydraulic actuated units replaced the ROBB units in the commercial market back in the 1980s. The ROBB units are great for people that have no rear remotes and don't want to get them. And as you mentioned, there are std style box blades that also have a single lever type engaged rippers also.

Something for just about everyone's needs, just need to look and ask questions.

It's getting to the point where there are almost too many options!!

Thanks though guys, all this has been very helpful to me.

Fallon · Aug 15, 2019

bridge4 said:
Thanks! It looks like the fit-rite and a ROBB is the way to go. I emailed them and with their lead times, I think I will order a full kit this winter and have it ready for spring. I won't be able to use it really at this point if it comes mid winter and I am set for snowblowing.

Just curious, pro's and cons of a ROBB vs regular BB

As a FYI MtnViewRanch is FitRite hydraulics, if you didnt already realize it. He's slow & not the cheapest but worth it. I got both my TnT sets from him before & after I upgraded machines. Tried the dealers options & they sucked, so I sent them back & waited for a good FitRite set.

oosik · Aug 15, 2019

The ROBB goes from blade to rippers without the need for hydraulics. Just ease up on the ROBB and pull the lever. OR you can get a box blade with manual rippers and need no hydraulics. OR you can get a box blade and HAVE hydraulic rippers if you have the hydraulics on your tractor.

I got the ROBB because I only have one rear hydraulic valve on my tractor and it controls the top link.

I wish all my "tools" worked as well as my FitRite hydraulic top link. It's simple, it's strong, it's easy to use, it's never given a moments problem.

bridge4 · Aug 15, 2019

FitRite is the way to go, and I will be ordering from Brian in early winter for spring time.

What hydraulics are needed to run a BB with hydraulic rippers?

Fallon · Aug 15, 2019

bridge4 said:
FitRite is the way to go, and I will be ordering from Brian in early winter for spring time.

What hydraulics are needed to run a BB with hydraulic rippers?

Just 1 dual acting valve. Pretty much any tractor with rear hydraulics in the past 20 years will be appropriate. You'd need 3 total to run TnT along with another function like hydraulic angle or scarficers.

A box blade with hydraulic scarfiers tends to be heavier end of the spectrum, as is a ROBB. Manual scarfiers doesnt mean light though. My ancient Gannon is manual but heavy.

Weight is everything for a box blade. You need weight to cut into hard ground. Weight is a pretty straight forward proxy for strength on box blades too. People stack weight on light blades, even then they dont cut well & often get pretzeled if your machine has good weight/traction.

bridge4 · Aug 16, 2019

Fallon said:
Just 1 dual acting valve. Pretty much any tractor with rear hydraulics in the past 20 years will be appropriate. You'd need 3 total to run TnT along with another function like hydraulic angle or scarficers.

A box blade with hydraulic scarfiers tends to be heavier end of the spectrum, as is a ROBB. Manual scarfiers doesnt mean light though. My ancient Gannon is manual but heavy.

Weight is everything for a box blade. You need weight to cut into hard ground. Weight is a pretty straight forward proxy for strength on box blades too. People stack weight on light blades, even then they dont cut well & often get pretzeled if your machine has good weight/traction.

Thanks! I have two rears, and will eventually put a 3rd function on. Haven't had anything hooked up back there yet, so until I do, I'm a little "green" about it all! Got tires filled two days ago and huge improvement! So that should help with weight/traction.

DieselBound · Aug 16, 2019

A good medium duty rotary cutter can deal with 2" to 3" stumps; but, if there are crowns you need to take out then the subsurface stump/roots needs to go.

Application of rippers really depends on the soil type. For some soils rippers would dig in and essentially act as a brake. I've got hydraulic rippers on my big box blade and rarely use them (only on/with looser soils).

bridge4 · Aug 16, 2019

DieselBound said:
A good medium duty rotary cutter can deal with 2" to 3" stumps; but, if there are crowns you need to take out then the subsurface stump/roots needs to go.

Application of rippers really depends on the soil type. For some soils rippers would dig in and essentially act as a brake. I've got hydraulic rippers on my big box blade and rarely use them (only on/with looser soils).

The soil I will mainly be working (95%) will be nice rich woods soil, I've found it very soft until you hit gravel quite a way down. There will be lots of little roots, and a few very small stumps I will need to rip though. And if the ripper can't do it, cut/dig out.