Couple questions about trail grading, and hydraulic top links/top and tilt

[Overtaxed]

I do a fair share of trail work, have about a mile/two that I maintain around my property. I have a BB and a rear blade that I use for it (and a hydro top link). You've gotten good advice, but I'm weighing in to say, if your tractor is big enough, consider a heavy rear blade. My BB will clog with grass and jumps over things, with the rear blade, I make 2 passes, cutting a ditch on the side of the trail on either side and dumping all the dirt on the top. The I smooth all that out with the BB. That works much, much better than just using a BB because the BB (at least mine) stinks at ditching. And you don't want a dead level trail, it won't stay that way for long if you get much rain. If I had to give up one tool, I'd give up the BB, the rear blade can do what it does, just harder and not as pretty. But the BB cannot do what the rear blade does. A hydro rear blade lets you "grade" a road, you can cut into hills, you can ditch, you can level. It's a very, very full featured tool if trail cutting is what you're after. Now, distributing rock? No way I'm using my rear blade for that, the BB is so much better. But when it comes to "heavy" dirt work, I find the rear blade is significantly more useful than the BB for my purposes.

Here are some pictures of me using my rear blade and some videos; give you an idea of what I do for my trails.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html

 

[GrandGeek]

For stump removal, I use my backhoe. For grading rough trails. I use the Land Pride box blade. So far am pleased with both, it is a bit of a pain to hook up the integrated backhoe as you have to remove the 3 point hitch.

 

[bridge4]

I do a fair share of trail work, have about a mile/two that I maintain around my property. I have a BB and a rear blade that I use for it (and a hydro top link). You've gotten good advice, but I'm weighing in to say, if your tractor is big enough, consider a heavy rear blade. My BB will clog with grass and jumps over things, with the rear blade, I make 2 passes, cutting a ditch on the side of the trail on either side and dumping all the dirt on the top. The I smooth all that out with the BB. That works much, much better than just using a BB because the BB (at least mine) stinks at ditching. And you don't want a dead level trail, it won't stay that way for long if you get much rain. If I had to give up one tool, I'd give up the BB, the rear blade can do what it does, just harder and not as pretty. But the BB cannot do what the rear blade does. A hydro rear blade lets you "grade" a road, you can cut into hills, you can ditch, you can level. It's a very, very full featured tool if trail cutting is what you're after. Now, distributing rock? No way I'm using my rear blade for that, the BB is so much better. But when it comes to "heavy" dirt work, I find the rear blade is significantly more useful than the BB for my purposes.

Here are some pictures of me using my rear blade and some videos; give you an idea of what I do for my trails.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html

Those pictures look good and are very helpful thank you! I am not sure if both implements will be in my budget but I might have to save up a little extra, some nice trails you've made!

 

[bridge4]

For stump removal, I use my backhoe. For grading rough trails. I use the Land Pride box blade. So far am pleased with both, it is a bit of a pain to hook up the integrated backhoe as you have to remove the 3 point hitch.

If I had to do a lot of stumps, I'd rent out a mini-ex again. I don't want a backhoe on my tractor, mine doesn't really have the power I'd want to do stumpwork, hopefully the other attachments could handle the smaller stuff I will be working over.

 

[Freep]

My BB will clog with grass and jumps over things, with the rear blade, I make 2 passes, cutting a ditch on the side of the trail on either side and dumping all the dirt on the top.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/406953-bison-nb80-240-review.html

Does your rear blade not clog with grass as well? If not, do you think it's because it's so heavy, or is is there some functional aspect of the rear blade that just works better with grass?

I have a bunch of grass growing, almost carpet-like, over gravel that used to be road(s) on a recently purchased property. It's so egregious that I am not entirely sure where the gravel/road ends. I need to get all that grass up, but it's so difficult with a BB, as you mention, that I've been putting it off.

 

[oosik]

I have a 710 pound Bush Hog ROBB that is 72" wide. I have a 1100 pound Rhino rear blade that is 96" wide. The ROBB is 118 pounds per foot wide. The rear blade is 138 pounds per foot wide. What works best for me for clearing a new trail thru sage brush and bunch grass. I hook up the ROBB and drop the manual shanks. I want them to cut about 2" into the ground. The shanks will make quite a mess with clumps of bunch grass and torn up sage brush everywhere. But the shanks WILL loosen the virgin soil and uproot the bunch grass and sage brush.

If I have to move a lot of soil to contour the trail - the ROBB stays on the 3-point. I raise the shanks and using the hydraulic top link I will move soil and contour the trail. The trail will be finished and crowned with the rear blade. The rear blade does a superior job of final finish and crowning. Unfortunately, my land plane grading scraper just sits and watches this entire operation. It will not move soil, will not cut ditches nor will it crown.

I have found it's better to rip up the virgin soil, bunch grass & sage brush with the shanks, first off. It just makes final contouring and crowning easier with either the ROBB or the rear blade. If I'm going to cut a drainage ditch on the sides of a new trail - it's going to be done with the rear blade. I just haven't figured out how to cut drainage ditches with the ROBB.

 

[bridge4]

I have a 710 pound Bush Hog ROBB that is 72" wide. I have a 1100 pound Rhino rear blade that is 96" wide. The ROBB is 118 pounds per foot wide. The rear blade is 138 pounds per foot wide. What works best for me for clearing a new trail thru sage brush and bunch grass. I hook up the ROBB and drop the manual shanks. I want them to cut about 2" into the ground. The shanks will make quite a mess with clumps of bunch grass and torn up sage brush everywhere. But the shanks WILL loosen the virgin soil and uproot the bunch grass and sage brush.

If I have to move a lot of soil to contour the trail - the ROBB stays on the 3-point. I raise the shanks and using the hydraulic top link I will move soil and contour the trail. The trail will be finished and crowned with the rear blade. The rear blade does a superior job of final finish and crowning. Unfortunately, my land plane grading scraper just sits and watches this entire operation. It will not move soil, will not cut ditches nor will it crown.

I have found it's better to rip up the virgin soil, bunch grass & sage brush with the shanks, first off. It just makes final contouring and crowning easier with either the ROBB or the rear blade. If I'm going to cut a drainage ditch on the sides of a new trail - it's going to be done with the rear blade. I just haven't figured out how to cut drainage ditches with the ROBB.

Good info, thank you!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Does your rear blade not clog with grass as well? If not, do you think it's because it's so heavy, or is is there some functional aspect of the rear blade that just works better with grass?

I have a bunch of grass growing, almost carpet-like, over gravel that used to be road(s) on a recently purchased property. It's so egregious that I am not entirely sure where the gravel/road ends. I need to get all that grass up, but it's so difficult with a BB, as you mention, that I've been putting it off.

A rear blade works a live load, meaning that the material is always moving. A box blade works a dead load, as in gathers material and holds it.

 

[Freep]

I see - so if I'm inferring correctly (from description and pictures) the rear blade peels grass out of the way and moves it around, whereas the box blade just sort of pushes it and collects it (not permitting 'escape' of the material, and thereby slowing the tractor). Is this correct, or am I missing something important?

I have a small box blade that I intend to replace when I can find a good used one, and an ancient, multiply-welded, and slightly curved rear blade (got free when buying some other ancient equipment) that I have not even hooked up to the tractor due to my skepticism about it's functionality.

 

[Fallon]

I see - so if I'm inferring correctly (from description and pictures) the rear blade peels grass out of the way and moves it around, whereas the box blade just sort of pushes it and collects it (not permitting 'escape' of the material, and thereby slowing the tractor). Is this correct, or am I missing something important?

I have a small box blade that I intend to replace when I can find a good used one, and an ancient, multiply-welded, and slightly curved rear blade (got free when buying some other ancient equipment) that I have not even hooked up to the tractor due to my skepticism about it's functionality.

An angled blade will roll material to the side. Snow plows & to some degree road graders are like this. Box or straight blades just collect stuff.

I recently picked up a cheap used back blade because of deficiencies with my heavy Gannon box blade & LPGS. Neither will move material laterally. So they really cant put a crown on a road or windrow material to the side. They can only move material straight ahead. Either smoothing or piling, but never creating any side slope.

Back blades rarely have scarfiers, side plates or as much weight as a box blade. You can find exceptions to that generalization in this thread, but they are much rarer. Without scarfiers & weight a back blade will never cut as well as a box blade. They are also generally wider than a box blade to cover the same width when angled. That further decreases the lbs per foot that does the cutting compared to an equivalent box blade.

Each impliment has it's own strengths & weaknesses for various jobs. You can also make either do the job in most cases as long as they arent to light. All things being equal, the box blade will be stronger & cut better. But the back blade will do some things the box won't.