Oil & Fuel Crap in fuel tank. Help!

[sawtooth]

Guys, I have a big issue and need some good advice. Several years ago I purchased a Ford 3910 tractor that was made in 1988 with very low hours. Since then I put about 10 hours on it and have kept it in a building but only ran it once per month for 10-15 minutes. After storing it and not running it much for past 3 years it started missing or sounding like it wasn't getting fuel. After further investigation I found that the screen in the fuel shut off valve was totally clogged. So I changed it out and drained the tank. Rinsed it out with fresh diesel fuel and filled it back up. Inside the tank looked like a brown film with what looked like grains of sand or small bumps that could be rubbed off. Then fuel also smelled and was dark brown in color like muddy water. I figured with rinsing the tank out that I might be good but after running the tractor 3 hours it's doing it again. Based on this what do you recommend? This last refill I put in a Opti-Lube with cleaners and biocide. I would really appreciate your help. Thanks

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Clean the tank. Inspect the lines; flush or replace as needed. Flush the pump. Replace all filters. New fuel. Disconnect injectors. Run pump to flush those lines. Might need to replace the injectors.

 

[TractorGuy]

Start at the tank and work forward. You probably have some crud stuck somewhere causing a restriction. Clean out the supply and return lines to the tank. If it has any banjo fittings look close in those. Crud will collect and build up there and restrict the fuel flow. I would get a service manual and look for locations of any screens that might clog also.

I went through a long drawn out search and destroy mission on my backhoe when I got it and it turned out to be one little bit of rust collected in the banjo fitting at the sediment bowl. Of course that wasn't all there was to it but that was causing it to not continue to run after all else was cleaned and filter replaced.

 

[Gary Fowler]

It looks like your shut off screen is catching much if not all of the crud. I suspect that your tank collected a lot of water from condensation and now your tank is corroded with rust and scale. You will likely have to remove the tank, fill it with coarse abrasive and roll it around to loosen the rust and scale. Depending on the severity, you may need to get some of the epoxy fuel tank lining and coat the entire inside of the tank to prevent it from continuing to rust.

From your description, I wouldn't go into excessive cleaning of fuel lines, injection pump etc until I got the tank cleaned. I think your fuel strainer and fuel filters should have stopped everything from getting past them so there should be no problem from fuel filters forward.

You may find an abrasive blaster that can clean the inside of the tank but they would need to be really careful to use low pressure air to keep from cutting thru the steel tank.
I still think small crushed stone would clean it the best if you can shake it around sufficiently.

 

[sweettractors]

Guys, I have a big issue and need some good advice. Several years ago I purchased a Ford 3910 tractor that was made in 1988 with very low hours. Since then I put about 10 hours on it and have kept it in a building but only ran it once per month for 10-15 minutes. After storing it and not running it much for past 3 years it started missing or sounding like it wasn't getting fuel. After further investigation I found that the screen in the fuel shut off valve was totally clogged. So I changed it out and drained the tank. Rinsed it out with fresh diesel fuel and filled it back up. Inside the tank looked like a brown film with what looked like grains of sand or small bumps that could be rubbed off. Then fuel also smelled and was dark brown in color like muddy water. I figured with rinsing the tank out that I might be good but after running the tractor 3 hours it's doing it again. Based on this what do you recommend? This last refill I put in a Opti-Lube with cleaners and biocide. I would really appreciate your help. Thanks

I am with Gary Fowler on abrasives in the tank to start with. I have used pea gravel from a local garden center with good luck. Ken Sweet

 

[Egon]

Steam cleaning if possible.

 

[sawtooth]

Yes the strainer on the shut off valve has caught most everything. My 3910 has two fuel filters after the strainer and I just changed them last month but will do so again. The walls of the tank have a brown rust colored substance that I can mostly scratch off and when I do it looks like a gunky film if that makes sense. The fuel is dark brown in color and keep in mind I just completely filled the tank with fresh fuel two weeks ago after I flushed it out. There is a lot of sediment in the bottom of the tank again so am now wondering if I have a bacteria problem.

 

[dahogman]

I ran into a similar problem with a New Holland that my friend has ran Biodiesel in. Looked like mold and was very slimy with clumps. I removed fittings from tank and cleaned tank with pea gravel and paint thinner. I let it soak for 2 days in the sun sealed up and then rinsed with diesel and reinstalled. I also replaced filters and rubber lines. No problems since to my knowledge.

 

[sawtooth]

If it's rust I heard vinegar will get it out. Is this true?

 

[Gary Fowler]

Water beads will make tiny rust bubbles that will have a slimy content from bacteria which is likely what you are seeing.
A quart of naval jelly sloshed around in the tank will dissolve all rust and slime. Be sure to wash it out with lots of water after it sets for several hours. Still better, add a few pints of sharp edged crushed rocks inside with the naval jelly and roll it around and it will scrub it super clean. Rinse with lots of water then a couple of rinses with some diesel, allow to dry in the sun for a day then remount tank and fill with clean fuel. Your problem should be fixed. Clean/replace all your screens /filters while tank is drying.


EDIT: be sure to get all the rock out when finished.

 

[JRobyn]

In my experience with old motorcycle and Ford 8n gasoline tanks, once they have started internal rust, there's only 2 ways to get a long-term, reliable fix; replace with a new tank, or seal it with either a Caswell or POR-15 tank seal kit. You must follow the kit instructions EXACTLY for a successful seal job.

 

[TractorGuy]

If it's rust I heard vinegar will get it out. Is this true?

I cleaned mine out with a pressure washer then I did two soaking cycles with 50% vinegar and 50% water. Each cycle was just overnight. Here are the before and after photos.

Afterwards I left my heat gun running in the fill hole till the tank was dry before refilling.

 

[sawtooth]

Great info. Thank you

 

[Texasmark]

Clean the tank. Inspect the lines; flush or replace as needed. Flush the pump. Replace all filters. New fuel. Disconnect injectors. Run pump to flush those lines. Might need to replace the injectors.

When you have finished with all that, I'd add a fuel treatment such as Power Services offers, or Sea Foam to the "new fuel" you will be adding at 2-3 times the recommended dosage and get a couple of spare fuel filters while in town. Take it out, and hook it to a good plow and run it hard for half a day. If/when it starts loosing rpms, replace the filter and go back to it. You will surely be surprised at your new baby. Then, if you are going to crank it, run it long enough for it to warm up good, 10-15 min under no or light load won't get it. PS offers a storage additive for fuel that sits for a long time without usage. Sounds like you'd be a prime candidate for that too.

Good luck.

 

[SARG]

I had issues for an entire season changing out the fuel filter more in one summer than should be required in a decade ........ and then I finally came to the realization that it was the fuel I was buying was crap. I changed where I bought my diesel and the problems went away.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have always bought my fuel from home delivery by bulk fuel distributor and never had any water issue.

 

[SARG]

I have always bought my fuel from home delivery by bulk fuel distributor and never had any water issue.

I know the issue I experienced was not water contamination .... I'll call it "slime" or alien stuff in the fuel. All I know is I changed sources and the problem went away.

 

[CADplans]

I changed where I bought my diesel and the problems went away.

I bought a tractor recently,, the "diesel" in the tank really seemed wrong,,,
the viscosity of the fuel just seemed to high.

I drained some from the tank, into a pint Mason jar.
When you would shake the fuel, it just seemed thick.
The fuel was red-dyed off road fuel.

The PO of the tractor is a dairy farmer,, I kinda wonder if they use "bio-diesel",
or some other form of alternative fuel.

I drained it all,, installed new filters, and added new fuel.
All is MUCH better,, for now.

 

[Texasmark]

I'll call it "slime" or alien stuff in the fuel.

Algae which water helps to cause in diesel. Power Services products and others make storage/usage additives that control that problem and do other things like increase Cetane rating and clean injectors, clean up carbon in combustion chambers and all.

 

[Wagtail]

Algae which water helps to cause in diesel. Power Services products and others make storage/usage additives that control that problem and do other things like increase Cetane rating and clean injectors, clean up carbon in combustion chambers and all.

This is what I use: Fuel Doctors Australia

It not only kills the 'slime' (biocide) but breaks down the biological and any water to microscopic level... it suspends it in the fuel. Then it will pass through the system (including the filter) to be burnt up.