Cub Cadet 417 new control valve is different than old one

[kirkdc]

I ordered this new control valve. It looked so similar to my old one from online pics. But once I got it, it's clearly different. Different spool valve ends where they hook up to the control lever and the biggest issue is the aluminum machined fitting that screws into the top of the valve (different OD) Is there any way I can make this work? (see pics)

Pic 1 : my old one is on the right with the removed fitting on top. new one is on the left.

 

[kirkdc]

Pic 2: new one on left, old one on the right. Notice the spool valve ends at the bottoms of the pic/valve. They are similar but different and will not connect to my current control lever (single lever, 4 way stick)

 

[kirkdc]

old on right, new on left. these fittings (in and out from pump) are different but I could get the proper fitting for this. Not a biggy but the other two issues (stated above) are.

 

[kirkdc]

This has quickly turned into a slow disaster of sorts. smh.

BOAT= B.O.A.T. = Break Out Another Thousand.

What's the term for TRACTOR ? lol

 

[kirkdc]

and BTW, the valve listed at the Cub Cadet parts website (for $800) which is supposed to fit my model looks the same as the one I bought off ebay. So I'm puzzled here.

 

[kirkdc]

My other Option: Is it possible they have an overhaul/rebuild kit for my original valve? Or does a shop do this kind of work still?

 

[ChasHM]

Time to start calling your local large-equipment shops/dealers or old timey farm stores to track down a hydraulics shop. My CAT dealer stocks some of this stuff and can make up hoses, for example.
The old valve should be easily rebuildable; most of the parts (o-rings and the like) are pretty standard sizes. However if the valve cylinders are scored, you may be out of luck.
The new valve: You'll need the hydraulics shop to find fittings to fit the holes on the new valve to your existing hoses and/or make up new hoses that fit the loader lines on one end and your new valve's holes on the other end.
The BYO/PB hole may be the most challenging as that fitting 'enables' the Power Beyond feature and needs to fit correctly. BTW, the PB hole was capped on the new valve, making the valve a closed-center, which you DON'T want.
The more aggravating issue (to me) is that the spool valve stems on the old valve have 'female' clevises and the new valve has 'male'. Have you figured out how to hook your control handle to the new valves? Your hydro shop may be able to move the old valve stems to the new body and get it all working.

I didn't see any manufacturer's marks or part numbers. Model BA - 2 Spool Parts | Cross Mfg. is probably a pretty good representation of what the innards look like.

Don't bother trying to replace the 'clear' plastic hose protectors if you get new hoses. I doubt you'll wear out the hoses before the tractor is scrap.

 

[Gator6x4]

I would continue the search until I found one like the old one or search for a rebuild facility.

https://www.google.com/search?q=hydraulic+control+valve+rebuild+facilites+in+colorado&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

[kirkdc]

Thanks for the help guys. I've searched far and wide with no luck. Even the CC listed part is the same as the one I bought off ebay. It appears I have an oddball valve due to the BYO/PB set up. If it weren't for that, yes I could change fittings for the pressure line and return hoses and I could even make a modification for the single lever control lever.

My only option is to seek out a rebuild kit and/or a shop that can rebuild it. Any suggestions? I'll do some calling around in the meantime and see if anyone sells a re-seal kit. I appreciate the help !

 

[Gator6x4]

Thanks for the help guys. I've searched far and wide with no luck. Even the CC listed part is the same as the one I bought off ebay. It appears I have an oddball valve due to the BYO/PB set up. If it weren't for that, yes I could change fittings for the pressure line and return hoses and I could even make a modification for my control lever.

My only option is to seek out a rebuild kit and/or a shop that can rebuild it. Any suggestions? I'll do some calling around in the meantime and see if anyone sells a re-seal kit. I appreciate the help !

https://www.google.com/search?q=hyd...rado&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

[kirkdc]

https://www.google.com/search?q=hyd...rado&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

Thanks, just saw your link now, missed it before..duh.

 

[kirkdc]

3 years later. Here we are. Tractor has been sitting and I'm back at it. Charged battery and it fired right up. I could not for a control alve anywhere nor any place that could rebuild the old one. The valve control is in my toolshed and all the loader lines are disconnected.

I've decide to say eff' the loader for now and I'll disconnect it the entire loader. It has grader running off the PTO in the back and I'd be happy just having that to grade my driveway and clear snow. So now my new problem. With the 9 lines disconnected to my control vale that ran the loader positions, I no longer have any steering. It must be all hydrualicall ran. I turn the steering wheel and the wheels dont move. Just lovely <sigh> All thos lines must be tied in with the control valve that I can't locate a new one or get it rebuilt.

Also my PTO no longer works and the grader won't operate up or down. Some of the reading I did talked of switching the "flow switch?" to O and hook the P hose to the N hose as it has quick connent fitting. I have no idea where this flow switch is to out it in the "O" position nor do i know what lines at "P" and "N" to connect them (as I guess that bypasses all the loaded lines) I plan to look at it closer today and try to figure this damm thing out. I remember (3 years ago, when I was "playing" with this thing trying to get it going) I found some info in one of the manuals. But I'd like to locate this flow switch, flick it to "O" and see if I can get the PTO working to operate the grader. I also need to figure out what lines run the steering. What a can of worms I got myself into. On a good note, it was sitting 3 years and a charge on the battery and it fired right up. But for now I'm giving up on fixing loader operation and removing the entire thing and focus on getting the grader to operate and get the steering back. Plus it is not very "mechanic fiendly" to get in there and work on stuff or trace down lines, etc. I can't afford thousand to take it to a shop so I'll try to see f I can figue it out.

Any suggestions appreciated. In the 3 years its been sitting I was always searching for another one like mine to look at or even buy the control valve. There's freaking 9 outlets/inlets on it. It's a damm shame because the thing is useless to me and the way it is, it has no re-sale value. Plus I really donlt want to sell it anyway. I'm sure a heavy equipement shop could get it fixed but being on a low Social Security payement per month there's no way I can afford that option.

 

[kirkdc]

I took off the loader, it was kind of a pain without hydrualics to change pressure on the pins. I used wood blocks and 2 bottle jacks then backed out the tractor away from the loader. Then supported it with cinder blocks.

As per an online serive manual I found, I switched the box lever from pointing to "S" and opt it to the "O" position, connected the 2 hydraulic hoses that were quick-disconnect fittings. hey were a beech' to connect even after cleaning and spraying them down with WD-40. Finally got it, fired it up and wah-lah, my back grader works. It goes up and down real smooth. Now I just need something nice and heavy to mount on top of the grader blade for extra weight - so it'll dig into the ground. (old engine block, etc)

I'll tackle the loader issue and valve assy later. Hell if I have to I'll just put a few single levers on it to run the loader positions. For the boom, up and down and another one for the bucket to tip both ways. It'll be pretty rinky-dink but functional. <shrug>