Loader Curl/Dump control very stiff
- Thread starter Gregster613
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Gregster613
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- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi all, I found out both the problem and the solution! With the unexpected extra time at home due to "social-distance" from people, I spent some time being "extra-close" to my tractor.
I re-viewed the loader manual again, noticed it says in the manual (in one very small line and sentence) that if the hydraulic fluid gets contaminates in it it can cause the valves to become sticky. Well I changed my fluid again yesterday and viola - the sticky valve situation went away immediately!! It's not all that hard to do it just takes a fair bit of time to get done and I'm usually wanting to do a project other than spend my weekend working on maintenance.
I do not know how the fluid could have become contaminated other than through wear and time. But, it had been just 300 hours since the last fluid change. That's what the maintenance schedule calls for and my records show that I changed it at 650 hours - I'm now at almost 900 so I'm calling it my 900 hour change. I'm at 859 so it was 200 hrs on system before it got sticky.
Upon writing this I realize that between the last change and now is when I added my diverter vale into my system. That consisted of adding a couple of hoses and switching around two others and while it temporarily open up the system I'm positive no contaminates got in. I used new hoses, new fittings, etc., etc., and I was extra careful whenever I had an open line. I used air pressure to blow out my new hoses before install also. I don't know for sure what might have happened - but now it seems to be cleared up, and due to new fluid in the system. So a $70.00 bucket of oil, $20 or 30 dollar filter and several hours of my time and back to the races! The oil I got at Napa, the filters are Donaldsons that I had ordered and had on the shelf.
At any rate I just wanted to post my resolution/solution to my problem, and let any others know that sticky valves "just might" be fixed by changing the fluid.
Happy Tractorin' to all. Greg
I re-viewed the loader manual again, noticed it says in the manual (in one very small line and sentence) that if the hydraulic fluid gets contaminates in it it can cause the valves to become sticky. Well I changed my fluid again yesterday and viola - the sticky valve situation went away immediately!! It's not all that hard to do it just takes a fair bit of time to get done and I'm usually wanting to do a project other than spend my weekend working on maintenance.
I do not know how the fluid could have become contaminated other than through wear and time. But, it had been just 300 hours since the last fluid change. That's what the maintenance schedule calls for and my records show that I changed it at 650 hours - I'm now at almost 900 so I'm calling it my 900 hour change. I'm at 859 so it was 200 hrs on system before it got sticky.
Upon writing this I realize that between the last change and now is when I added my diverter vale into my system. That consisted of adding a couple of hoses and switching around two others and while it temporarily open up the system I'm positive no contaminates got in. I used new hoses, new fittings, etc., etc., and I was extra careful whenever I had an open line. I used air pressure to blow out my new hoses before install also. I don't know for sure what might have happened - but now it seems to be cleared up, and due to new fluid in the system. So a $70.00 bucket of oil, $20 or 30 dollar filter and several hours of my time and back to the races! The oil I got at Napa, the filters are Donaldsons that I had ordered and had on the shelf.
At any rate I just wanted to post my resolution/solution to my problem, and let any others know that sticky valves "just might" be fixed by changing the fluid.
Happy Tractorin' to all. Greg
two_bit_score
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Gregster613
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two_bit_score, I agree and I am now convinced on set hour changes irregardless of whether the oil "should" be good/clean for whatever reasons. I followed the specifications but had reservations as to how could a closed system get dirty? Now - I do realize that even if closed, the oil eventually gets degraded/contaminated and fouled. Oil and my time are cheap compared to the eventual hassles that may develop! Thanks for the follow up response. Greg
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Gregster613
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- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Thought I'd update this info I posted. My stiffness in the curl/dump did come back so just changing the fluid was not the solution. I searched the net and finally found someone at Nimco whom was very helpful. I ordered a complete new replacement valve and whilst it took several months to arrive, it finally did so this month. I tackled the job of replacement this weekend. I'm very pleased to report that I just finished it and all works as smoothly as when new! No leaks and for once it seems as if a job attacked with due diligence has paid off. I do admit I only ran it long enough to cycle all the valves several times and ensure that the power beyond was all as it should be. It was, and I hope to not have any unknowns show up later.
The few glitches I did run into were easily solved by re-using old parts from the faulty valve. They must have redesigned the relief valve as it was longer than the old and thus the valve wouldn't fit on the platform. I switched them and was back in business. I also re-used all the old fittings so it was just a manner of disconnect and re-connect hoses. I took detailed notes prior to disassembly because I wanted it back as it was. While that did work, it lead me to some questions regarding the cable attachments. I took note of the number of threads showing and the distance from the end to the cylindrical cylinder when the lock nut was off. I put it all back as it was prior to coming apart and works just fine.
But...... What is the purpose of the cylindrical cylinder other than to hold the cable mechanism in place? IE... why does it thread on and have a lock nut?
Is there a reason for that?
What does it do for adjustment purposes?
Is it really that critical to have 3 threads showing?
How does it effect the joystick?
If I loosen or tighten the cylindrical cylinder what effect will it really have? I "think" it only tightens or loosens the cables, but am unsure. I'd appreciate if someone knew and would explain to me what real purpose it serves. If my "thought" is correct or if I am out in the dark. If it adds effectiveness/speed to the loader functions I'd really like for it to be correct in adjustment. I put it back as it was when new and it works but I'm curious. Thanks, Greg
The few glitches I did run into were easily solved by re-using old parts from the faulty valve. They must have redesigned the relief valve as it was longer than the old and thus the valve wouldn't fit on the platform. I switched them and was back in business. I also re-used all the old fittings so it was just a manner of disconnect and re-connect hoses. I took detailed notes prior to disassembly because I wanted it back as it was. While that did work, it lead me to some questions regarding the cable attachments. I took note of the number of threads showing and the distance from the end to the cylindrical cylinder when the lock nut was off. I put it all back as it was prior to coming apart and works just fine.
But...... What is the purpose of the cylindrical cylinder other than to hold the cable mechanism in place? IE... why does it thread on and have a lock nut?
Is there a reason for that?
What does it do for adjustment purposes?
Is it really that critical to have 3 threads showing?
How does it effect the joystick?
If I loosen or tighten the cylindrical cylinder what effect will it really have? I "think" it only tightens or loosens the cables, but am unsure. I'd appreciate if someone knew and would explain to me what real purpose it serves. If my "thought" is correct or if I am out in the dark. If it adds effectiveness/speed to the loader functions I'd really like for it to be correct in adjustment. I put it back as it was when new and it works but I'm curious. Thanks, Greg
I am glad you updated this post. I had briefly read it over in the past but had not had any input or exhibited the problem back then. I haven't been using the TYM much lately due to having a skid steer available, but fired up the TYM this week and I am having the exact same problem you are experiencing and it is only with the curl cylinders. Get better as it warms up but still not right. I will tear into it this weekend to see if I can answer any of your questions. Curious what the new valve ran you?
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Gregster613
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myyaz33, I can't give you an answer at this moment, because that's the best part of this deal yet.....valve came but no invoice or bill. Whenever it shows up, I'll gladly pay whatever is asked because it's fabulous having the valve back in proper working order. I expect probably about $300 or $400 but don't yet know.
I have my old valve on the workbench and just cannot seem to find anything wrong with that spool. I can move it back and forth by hand; I rotated it about 90 degrees in the cylinder (I had read in some other posting that that helped someone else with a similar problem) and am going to keep it around as a "questionable" spare. "Questionable" being the operative word here. The old valve will not keep the spring loaded items - inside the outermost spool cap - on the end of the spool itself. The fast-dump mechanism is what I am trying to describe. It pops off the small lip on the spool that's supposed to keep it in place.
But, that didn't affect the stiffness of operation any. I had removed it completely and curl/dump still worked and valve remained very hard to move. As I tried to describe in my first posts per this problem; if I would remove the outermost endcap on the dump/curl, then move the valve there would be a slight pop/puff and it would move fairly easily again, and stay fairly free for awhile. Shut down for the night and next day re-do the same steps over to free up the valve. I remain stumped as to what might have caused this and why. I do know that the new valve works as it should and like new. Does this mean there is a 10 - 11 year lifespan to these valves?? And why?? Because if yours is now acting the same, then mine was not just a fluke valve as I was beginning to believe. Sorry you now have a similar problem. If you can figure out some fix other than replacing the valve - Please post that fix. But I'm afraid you'll likely need to replace the valve as I did. That will return you to like-new status again. Best wishes, Greg
I have my old valve on the workbench and just cannot seem to find anything wrong with that spool. I can move it back and forth by hand; I rotated it about 90 degrees in the cylinder (I had read in some other posting that that helped someone else with a similar problem) and am going to keep it around as a "questionable" spare. "Questionable" being the operative word here. The old valve will not keep the spring loaded items - inside the outermost spool cap - on the end of the spool itself. The fast-dump mechanism is what I am trying to describe. It pops off the small lip on the spool that's supposed to keep it in place.
But, that didn't affect the stiffness of operation any. I had removed it completely and curl/dump still worked and valve remained very hard to move. As I tried to describe in my first posts per this problem; if I would remove the outermost endcap on the dump/curl, then move the valve there would be a slight pop/puff and it would move fairly easily again, and stay fairly free for awhile. Shut down for the night and next day re-do the same steps over to free up the valve. I remain stumped as to what might have caused this and why. I do know that the new valve works as it should and like new. Does this mean there is a 10 - 11 year lifespan to these valves?? And why?? Because if yours is now acting the same, then mine was not just a fluke valve as I was beginning to believe. Sorry you now have a similar problem. If you can figure out some fix other than replacing the valve - Please post that fix. But I'm afraid you'll likely need to replace the valve as I did. That will return you to like-new status again. Best wishes, Greg