Current on a 12 gauge wire

   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #31  
Light circuits should be separate from receptacle circuits in home, business and industry.
The fridge should be on it's own dedicated circuit with it's own ordinary breaker , the only other shared load a recessed single receptacle for an electric wall clock which is a good idea as it will indicate a tripped breaker. Receptacle for fridge if behind fridge and obstructed from access can be a plain non tamper proof, no AFCI and no GFCI .
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #32  
Even on dedicated lighting circuits, I can't see 14 gauge. Yes, it's theoretically enough.

I have also seen them tapped into. It's just not worth the few dollars it saves.

Last time I checked, it's also not allowed in some locations here.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #33  
So, with respect to cost there appears to be some savings but, at least to my mind, minor in relation to the cost of building a single family residence. And minor in relation to living with the identified quirks of shared neutral for decades.

Now there is the second question about function. The discussion has identified several functional downsides. Are there any functional advantages to shared neutral?

Just because something can be done, does not mean it should be done.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #34  
Wrong, neutral can be shared when the two single phase supply breakers are on line 1 and line 2.
Shared neutral for some circumstances has been discussed. It's not clear the ops case meets this since op says he requires dedicated dishwasher circuit. Some might argue it is still dedicated with a dual breaker, I'm not sure, and too indifferent to get my code book out. I know I wouldn't install it that way, nor would I allow it in my house. Maybe Canadian code allows?
Light circuits should be separate from receptacle circuits in home, business and industry.
The fridge should be on it's own dedicated circuit with it's own ordinary breaker , the only other shared load a recessed single receptacle for an electric wall clock which is a good idea as it will indicate a tripped breaker. Receptacle for fridge if behind fridge and obstructed from access can be a plain non tamper proof, no AFCI and no GFCI .
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire
  • Thread Starter
#35  
I've looked at the electrical installation in more detail - the distance from the main breaker panel is about 30'. There are NO bonded 20 amp breakers in the main panel (no 240v 20a) The 12/3 wire goes somewhere but the red wire never shows up in the main breaker panel so now I'm wondering if there are other things on the circuit as well. I also found a 10 gauge wire on a 240v 40a breaker. I'm going to have to have a serious discussion with the builder (not the electrician) after this weekend!
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #36  
Modern wire insulation does allow for higher ratings...

Her in my city I have to go by city code...

14 ga = 15 amp

12 ga = 20 amp

10 ga = 30 amp (Except my city requires 8 ga for 30 amp electric dryer)

Plus, we do make allowances for original permitted work that remains serviceable and unaltered...

I would be concerned about sharing a neutral without a bonded breaker because of the potential problems in that only one side trips or someone reshuffles the breakers and both end up on the same leg...

Reminds me of another case I helped with... new owners of an older home had his brother in law add a circuit for a disposal... well they soon noticed the large through wall AC did not work... you guessed it... the AC did not have a double breaker or a tied breaker so the brother in law put both sides on the same leg when her reshuffled the breakers to make room in the panel for the new disposal circuit...
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #37  
So, with respect to cost there appears to be some savings but, at least to my mind, minor in relation to the cost of building a single family residence. And minor in relation to living with the identified quirks of shared neutral for decades.

Now there is the second question about function. The discussion has identified several functional downsides. Are there any functional advantages to shared neutral?

Just because something can be done, does not mean it should be done.

With two sets of 12/2 and 1500 watts on each there will be four wires carrying current and making heat in that conduit the wires were illegally pulled through with the water. With 12/3 with 1500W on each line there will only be two wires carrying current.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #38  
But is it "Illegal" if their is no applicable code or authority of jurisdiction?

I use to go through this all the time as many of the structures pre-date code... as in still having gas piping for gas lamps, lead drain pipes, windows of the size that do not meet egress requirements or beautiful Stained or Beveled glass doors that are not laminated or tempered...

In my own home there are many things that do not meet modern code and I am under no obligation to change them.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #39  
Even on dedicated lighting circuits, I can't see 14 gauge. Yes, it's theoretically enough.

I have also seen them tapped into. It's just not worth the few dollars it saves.

Last time I checked, it's also not allowed in some locations here.
14ga is a bit easier to deal with.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #40  
14 is a joy to deal with and around here the load on existing light circuits is a fraction of what it once was...

150W GE reading bulb replaced with a 9.5W LED... or 3ea 100W bulbs replaced by 3ea 9.5W LED....
 

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