curti cab
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mjym
Silver Member
hi its what i have on my bx and its good enough for me but its the old type have soft door and real glass all around go on curtis.com and youll see it
rbarker
Platinum Member
I don't have any trouble getting in or out of my BX25 with the Curtis cab but I am only 5'8". I find it to be well built for the most part but on mine the rear enclosure is a vinyl curtain that snaps on to the frame. There are quite a few air gaps that contribute to heat loss. It's way better than no cab but I consider that a bit of a weak point.
Don't know if the construction for your L series would be substantially different.
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I don't have any trouble getting in my Curtis Cab on my B7800.
The doors are nice and wide soft sides and I am 6'2".
I usually climb in the left side (opposite side of the loader valve).
I can climb in the right side but the loader actuator handle is sort of in the way, but it's still not too bad.
The Soft side doors have a tiny cable that limits how far open the door will swing.
If a wider swing was needed, it would be a very simple matter to replace the cable, with another longer cable, chain, or rope.
I think the cable is only on there to limit the door's travel in case the wind catches it, while your opening or closing it.
Not sure about the hard side doors though.
For the past nine years, I have been very happy with my unheated Curtis Cab and would recommend them.
Good luck
mpham
Veteran Member
I have a Curtis cab on my Kioti. It has the solid doors and works great. No problem getting in or out. It has straps on it to keep it from opening to far and hitting the tires.
Dan W
Silver Member
Dan W
Silver Member
Lastly, if you don't rush it, they are easy to install, near perfect fit on both
Dan
Dan
jambx
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2007
- Messages
- 282
- Location
- Southern CT
- Tractor
- B2920 TLB, ZD21-60P, 1949 US Baird Beaver
Dan,
I will be making a longer seperate post soon on my Curtis Cab experience (had it for 3 weeks now) but for now I will give you my $0.02.
1) Terrific - should have done it sooner but I wasnt willing to part with the money they want for these so I only had to wait since 2009
for a used one in like new condition. Again makes the whole winter experience enjoyable :thumbsup:2) I was skeptical on the build quality until I received it. I took it down to the last screw, cleaned everything up and put it back together and on the tractor. Quality is very very good and now understand they are priced accordingly.
3) Noise - wow - yeah its loud. So loud I do use ear muffs - I could not do without and use the muffs with a Radio and iPhone hook up. Stream music while I play...er.... plow. I can not tell you how happy I am. Yes it is LOUD at 2X maybe 3X however with the ear muffs its a non issue and brings tractoring to a whole other level. I just do not understand however how guys can operate a Radio through cab speakers in one of these cabs since I would think you would have to crank up the radio to overcome the interior noise...
4) Heater - I dont have one and have operated in single digits. While I wear a carhart Bib and ONLY a sweatshirt - I find I am never NEVER cold - in fact I almost at the point of too hot. Why you would shell out an extra $400+ for a heater is beyond me. I hear guys blowing snow in shorts and T shirts - sounds like fun - until you have to get out of the cab to shovel, change blade angle etc. Its winter - dress for it. I just dont see the point.
Conclusion - Tractor Cab is a home run and the Curtis Cab well WELL worth every penny.
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I totally agree with you jambx.
I don't have a heater either.
I did buy a heater when I purchased and installed my Curtis Cab.
I then delayed installing the heater just to see how cold I'd get without having heat.
The only occasional issue I have is the inside of the glass windshield fogging up.
I carry a rag to take care of that.
Good point about heater. I use my fel a lot loading and un loading trailers in out. Plus a little snow for driveways. So not much of a problem with glass fogging up. $400.00 is a lot for a heater. When just to get out the blowing snow and
wind would be nice. Thanks for the replies.
wind would be nice. Thanks for the replies.
jambx
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2007
- Messages
- 282
- Location
- Southern CT
- Tractor
- B2920 TLB, ZD21-60P, 1949 US Baird Beaver
Framer - sorry about my reply which addressed Dan instead of you - it was meant to be mostly for you but i am glad to see some others have enjoyed the input.
One last thing - I will be taking this cab off in the spring since I do a lot of woods work and the cab is just too big / tall etc to work in confined spaces. Not to mention I love open platforms since I jump in and out a lot to hook up logs etc.
I will be posting a thread shortly and will post a lot of pics.
Good Luck!
~jim
Dan W
Silver Member
Jim,
I agree regarding the price of the Curtis heater kit price it sells for $495 at my dealer here so I bought one at a supplier called Princessauto up here for $100 also interesting is the heat generated or rather the heat which migrates from the dash area into the cab on the 7800.
We get really cold up hear so it generally takes a good hour before I can unzip my coat.
I have the same small 3500 Btu in the F3680 and I can't defrost or melt the snow from the windshield. There is no heat transfer from the rear mount engine like there is on the 7800.
So yes, on a mild day, maybe -10C it gets plenty hot in the 7800 but at - 27 to 30 as we've subjected to this winter, I'm very thankful for the small cab heater...
Dan
WaxMan
Veteran Member
Dan,
I will be making a longer seperate post soon on my Curtis Cab experience (had it for 3 weeks now) but for now I will give you my $0.02.
1) Terrific - should have done it sooner but I wasnt willing to part with the money they want for these so I only had to wait since 2009
2) I was skeptical on the build quality until I received it. I took it down to the last screw, cleaned everything up and put it back together and on the tractor. Quality is very very good and now understand they are priced accordingly.
3) Noise - wow - yeah its loud. So loud I do use ear muffs - I could not do without and use the muffs with a Radio and iPhone hook up. Stream music while I play...er.... plow. I can not tell you how happy I am. Yes it is LOUD at 2X maybe 3X however with the ear muffs its a non issue and brings tractoring to a whole other level. I just do not understand however how guys can operate a Radio through cab speakers in one of these cabs since I would think you would have to crank up the radio to overcome the interior noise...
4) Heater - I dont have one and have operated in single digits. While I wear a carhart Bib and ONLY a sweatshirt - I find I am never NEVER cold - in fact I almost at the point of too hot. Why you would shell out an extra $400+ for a heater is beyond me. I hear guys blowing snow in shorts and T shirts - sounds like fun - until you have to get out of the cab to shovel, change blade angle etc. Its winter - dress for it. I just dont see the point.
Conclusion - Tractor Cab is a home run and the Curtis Cab well WELL worth every penny.
Nothing is better then a cab winter or summer. The curtis cab is well built. Someday Kubota will offer a factory cab on the smaller tractors, I would prefer to have a smaller tractor, but it must have a cab, spoiled now I guess.
I had a B3030 and did some soundproofing that helped tremendously. If I had your cab I would look into doing that. You shouldn't have to wear headphones all the time.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-soundproofing-b3030-cab-found-something.html
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Waxman i like your video on sound proofing your cab. What did you use? I may put curtis cab on my L3200. Have heard through my dealer Kubota may put factory cabs on L models. Don't know when or
how much. I think factory cabs will increase cost over $6,000. And the 15% loss on trading up could be total cost over $8,000 really more than want spend.Thanks
how much. I think factory cabs will increase cost over $6,000. And the 15% loss on trading up could be total cost over $8,000 really more than want spend.Thanks
Freddieboy
Member
Good info and looking forward to your thread, as I have been considering this cab for my 2920. I will want to remove it in good weather also and am real curious how difficult it will be. Also, the chute on my rear blower is manual and wondering if it is usable with the cab on.
jambx
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2007
- Messages
- 282
- Location
- Southern CT
- Tractor
- B2920 TLB, ZD21-60P, 1949 US Baird Beaver
Freddieboy,
I will try and post my Curtis Cab install this week - bottom line is the install / removal is a piece of cake - four brakets that bolt to the ROPS and 4 bolts for the floor plate (however I did not bolt to the floor and it is as solid as a rock) - I will build a small frame /fixture to catch under the frame of the cab so I can hoist with the weigh bearing on the frame and not the roof.
As for manipulating the chute - I think its a small small challenge. On mine I have a soft rear window and recall reading a thread where someone extended the crank and put a hole into the window for it to fit - not shure how that would work if when you raised the blower though. If it was me I would cut a opening / flap into the window like a doggie door for a house and just reach through when I had to change the angle - the cab is far from air tight but I dont feel any real drafts.
I have read this over and over since 2009 and now can state it myself - I should have done this years ago :thumbsup:
jambx
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 14, 2007
- Messages
- 282
- Location
- Southern CT
- Tractor
- B2920 TLB, ZD21-60P, 1949 US Baird Beaver
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