Curtis Cab 2X20

/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #1  

jambx

Gold Member
Joined
May 14, 2007
Messages
282
Location
Southern CT
Tractor
B2920 TLB, ZD21-60P, 1949 US Baird Beaver
Does anyone have a Curtis cab installed on one of the 2X20 series?

I am about to pull the trigger on one of these cabs and just wanted some feedback (mainly bad - besides the price).

I sat in one being installed recently (pic) and I was surprised how spacious it was inside - I am still not convinced that it is worth the money but when I look at what else is available (for ~$1K) I can not justify it when the less expensive alternaties appear to be not much more than vinyl and snaps.

If anyone can give me good, bad and ugly on the Curtis it was be greatly appreciated,

~jim
 

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/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #2  
I have a L3400 and would like to know about them also. I'm not too sure about the vinyl sides lasting all that long in my own opinion but.... That heater would be nice to have!!!
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Does anyone remember one forum member that had a cab and made a lift in his barn to be able to take the cab off in one piece?

I did a number of searches and can not seem to locate it.

I want to be able to easily return to a open cab for the summer months and the lift seems like a great idea to take the cab off as one piece.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #6  
I do not have your tractor model but I did install a Curtis Cab on my BX24 which looks to be not too dissimilar in size. The design of the parts in the photos you provided is consistent with what was used in my cab. Overall, I was very impressed with the construction, quality, and engineering of the cab. As you noted, it is pricey but I came to the same conclusion as you that the alternatives were possibly not worth the money. Here are some of my thoughts since you asked.

* I have the hard side model. This absolutely requires the use of hearing protection when sitting in the cab. The soft side model may not be as resonant.
* Because of the installation of the BX24 backhoe, the cab came with a soft rear panel that can be unsnapped and rolled up. If you are going to install this panel, do it before it gets cold. I did mine at the start of winter ( I live in SE Minnesota) and I had to place the tractor outside with the sun beating on the rear panel along with a 110V heater inside the cab in order to get the rear panel pliable enough to snap on.
* I too harbored thoughts of lifting the cab off for use during the summer months. I quickly abandoned this idea after completing the install. There are too many connections and interlocking parts to make it worth my time. Instead, I just remove the doors for the summer ( they just lift off two hinge pins) and use the rest of the cab as a canopy.
* I did not encounter any point in the install where the parts did not fit correctly or holes did not align. This was a very pleasant surprise as I expected I would have to shim parts or ream holes like is so often the case with other large assemblies.
* Although the instructions say to use two people I was able to complete the install by myself. More difficult? Yes, but possible.
* The Curtis accessories are overpriced. You can make/buy equivalents cheaper.
* I do not have the heater option. I find that the coat I wear to get to the shed to get the tractor is sufficiently warm in the cab once the wind and blowing snow have been eliminated. I have the front mount blower on my unit.
* I used the bracket intended for mounting the heater to mount a toolbox instead.
* If you have a front mount snow blower you will need either the electric or hydraulic options for rotating the chute. There was not a hole through which to pass the manual chute rotation rod.
* The package the cab comes in is about 1 foot thick, 6 feet wide and about 6.5 feet tall. If you are hauling this yourself you will want good straps to tie it down and take the corners slowly.
* The poly material used to wrap the parts in the package makes a great cover for tender plants and herbs on those late spring and early fall frost nights.
* The hardest part of the install was the windshield wiper. Trying to align the splines of the drive motor with the wiper while holding the wiper spring open was a challenge. Resist the urge to beat on it.

I hope this helps.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #7  
We have one on our BX2660. Like minnebota, we leave the uprights and roof on year round. We take off the windshield, the door and the back for the summer.

Watch the hose routing underneath and I would use their bracket with extended wires to relocate the lights to the top hinge rather than leaving them on the bottom hinge.

Get the windshield and wiper from them, but dont bother with the other accessories (mirrors, light, strobe). They arent worth the inflated prices they want.

Aaron Z
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks so much for the detailed feedback!

Its all good info but I have to ask just since for me this cab is just for the winter months. I am in the woods a lot in the summer not to mention I like an open cab feel. From some of my other readings I am (almost) convinced these cabs can come off in one piece - since you guys have done actual installs can you confirm that basically after you remove the bolts on each side of the floor board, unbolt the ROPS brackets, maybe a electrical connection or two the entire cab should / could be lifted off in one piece?...am I missing something or are there a lot of other mechanical connections?...

I have a barn and electric hoist that should make easy work of the removal (~2hours?..)..

Any additional feedback on the way the cab is bolted as a whole would be greatly appreciated!

Jim
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #9  
I didn't install it and haven't removed it, but 2 hours is what it looks like it would take on our BX.


Aaron Z
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #10  
I'll take a look today to count the connecting bolts and see if there is a mechanical reason the cab can not be lifted off as a unit.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #11  
I too have that cab and love it.. The soft door are great.. I've scraped across branches quite a lot and haven't torn them yet.. As for taking it off why.. I fun mine in the woods all summer long.. no doors on and rear open ..The rops on your tractor are higher than the cab top just make sure that your aux. lights are under the cab height..
I have both the hard rear window and the soft.. "if you buy the hard they give you the soft".. I put that on after the back hoe comes off in the fall..
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #12  
Jambx,

I took a look at my cab and I think you will be able to do what you want: that is, take the whole cab off in the summer.

On my cab (again, it is on a BX24) there are four bolts that hold the cab to the floor pan and there are the four brackets that brace the cab to the rops. On my configuration I do not see anything that would absolutely prevent lifting the cab off. That being said, there are a few things that may affect your configuration that you would need to plan for.

* As I'm sure you already know, any electrical connections will need disconnects.

* On the BX24 the grab handles mounted on the fenders to either side of the seat seem to be a little farther out than the fender. When lifting the cab up it may be necessary to spread the bottom rear portion of the side panels to clear the grab handles. I don't know if this is the same as the 2X20 series but it should not be too difficult to overcome.

* On my install the floor pan bolts were placed through the holes used for those plastic dohickies (a great term when you don't know the real name) that hold the rubber mat down to the floor. With these taken out and the bolts removed, the rubber mat may flop, slide, pull up, or otherwise be a nuisance. Again, not a big deal.

* On my cab the instructions said to remove the rear yellow turn/hazard lights from the bracket on the rops and move them to the bracket provided on the cab. From your pictures it appears the same is true on the 2X20 cabs. The reason for this is that from the front the cab obstructs the view of these lights. I did not do this on my cab because I thought this would just be an invitation for them to break off. If you move the lights on your install then you will have to move them back when you take the cab off.

That's all I can think of for now. I hope you'll post pictures and your thoughts on the soft side cab after your install. Good luck
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #13  
I sat in a B2x20 series that had the cab install complete, and the only thing I didn't like was that the tuck-a-way heater made getting in, and out more diifficult with some medical issues I have. It cuts the width of the floor pan on the left side to just about half I think.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #14  
I sat in a B2x20 series that had the cab install complete, and the only thing I didn't like was that the tuck-a-way heater made getting in, and out more diifficult with some medical issues I have. It cuts the width of the floor pan on the left side to just about half I think.

I agree. I wish there was a way to put it on the right,but between the loader control and the brake pedal, that is not really possible.

Aaron Z
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #15  
Besides the price the only complaint I have read about is down the road if you want a replacement door Curtis has stop making them. I do believe I read that here on Tractorbynet.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #16  
I have a hard side deluxe BX1800/2200 model on my BX2360, almost the same cab.. Got it brand new for $1200 from a distributor selling out old models.. the biggest drawback I'd say is the noise is multiplied by about 5X with the cab on. I keep a set of muffs in the tractor now. I still have a few holes to fill in and put the rad flap on which should help a bit. Also I find it a bit top heavy now, I find myself being VERY cautious on uneven ground. other than that it's a super nice cab, but I will definitely pull it off for the summer.
 

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/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #18  
That might help a bit, I'll probably put some mat on the back panel for sure. the roof came with a sound deadening pad already installed. those seem to be the 2 largest areas where you could put anything.. there is a lot of glass.
 
/ Curtis Cab 2X20
  • Thread Starter
#19  
I have a hard side deluxe BX1800/2200 model on my BX2360, almost the same cab.. Got it brand new for $1200 from a distributor selling out old models.. the biggest drawback I'd say is the noise is multiplied by about 5X with the cab on. I keep a set of muffs in the tractor now. I still have a few holes to fill in and put the rad flap on which should help a bit. Also I find it a bit top heavy now, I find myself being VERY cautious on uneven ground. other than that it's a super nice cab, but I will definitely pull it off for the summer.

Hey all - good info once again but this has got me a bit scared - 2X I could stand but 5X! is it really that bad? You wont believe why I am asking - I ride with our dog - yes he freaks if he does not come with me - if its that loud I just may have to pass and put on the Carharts - and yes he has a pair as well.

Pathetic is an understatment.

Seriously - I would like to know if most experiance this large increase in noice volume.

Thx
 

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/ Curtis Cab 2X20 #20  
I am thinking about getting one for my L3400. But if it is that loud I might think about it also. On the other hand I do know that I could wrap most of the inside with Dynamat to get rid of most of the noise. I would like to listen to the radio since there is an option with it...
 

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