cut pipe for plow cutting edge

[GolfAddict]

In case you haven't seen what they look like on my plow:

View attachment 348567

Thanks again. I would like to do something to have gauge wheels added on mine, so this gives me ideas. I've also searched and found some threads on here with various ways folks have done similar, including yours.

I don't have fabrication capabilities, but there is a local shop. I'll have to run some ideas past them, and I think pictures of other solutions will help...

 

[TractorNH]

Resurrecting an old thread to show the slotted pipe I added on my 8’ Fisher Speedcast Plow. I have loose crushed gravel on my driveway and hoping this will help keep from digging in before the driveway freezes. It is a 3" pipe with a clevis style point of attachment so it is easy to remove once everything is frozen and ice covered but also easy to put back on for the late spring storms when the ground has started to thaw.

 

[oosik]

I find it a whole lot easier to reverse the blade 180 degrees until the driveway freezes up good and hard.

 

[mangus580]

I am on my 3rd (maybe 4th? dont recall now!) season with a pipe on my 7.5' Fisher plow. I plow commercially, and have on average had 20+ contracts each year. My original pipe still, now has a flat spot of about 1.5" on the bottom! (its a 2.5" pipe I think)

It still works great! Yard repair is minimal to not at all now. So glad I did this, and I am shopping for pipe to do my V plow, my other straight blade, and all 3 of my partners blades as well.

I do like how TractorNH has attached his! I would love a removable setup, as sometimes I need to scrape pavement down....

 

[nyone]

I find it easier to not plow the first few small storms. Until its ether packed down or we get 5-6in i dont plow my gravel driveway. Its flat and we have front wheel drive cars, no ones got stuck.

For plow blades the backdrag blade on myy fisher EzV was a game changer. I can now scrape going in reverse just like going forward. The design is very simple.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I tried the pipe method and it worked great. The plow was 7' and I cut the pipe to 7' and welded two tabs on it to bolt it through where the cutting edge bolts up. I have everything from very fine chips to 1" and 2" crusher for a parking area and 1/2" long drive. We also have concrete curbing that holds the gravel in around the parking area. The pipe worked absolutely terrific. I was able to just drop the plow and go. The shoes were just digging in and tearing everything up. This just floated across the gravel, up over the curbing, and across the lawn with zero damage.

 

[metalbender]

Just reviving a not too old thread. Finally got round to it. Did the pipe on the blade cutting edge thing. 1 1/2 inch sched 40 pipe, sliced out a strip to slip over the edge and bolted on. Figured that was the best way to support the pipe over it's 87 inch length. Initial testing lets me float the loader without tripping the blade. The next snow event will tell.

 

[ChevyKeith]

I finally added a metal tube to cutting edge on my L5240. Thought I would share some pics. Have not had a chance to try it out.
Used an old Jepson hand dry cutter - looks like a circ saw but cuts metal to slice the pipe - if you get a chance to find one of these used they are great

I have pretty thick steel for tabs - just cause that's what was laying around and about the right size. Tube was also something I found not really sure what it is.
Got a quarter mile of dirt road and a quarter mile of regrind at the house and was tearing up the horse mats I was using as rubber blades too often so decided to try metal.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I just took my plow off for the season and checked the pipe for wear. It was schedule 40 pipe and was thinning based on just one season of use. I got after it with the hard-facing rod to build up the bottom and it will hopefully extend the life of the pipe through a few more seasons.

 

[MercRec]

This was a great improvement for float and keeping gravel on the drive.

 

[drizler]

How do you guys who have slipped a pipe over a snowplow cutting edge cut the slot? I have an oxyacetylene cutting torch and thought to use that. Also have 4" grinder but that seems too slow. And do you cut the slot undersize a bit and beat the pipe on? Do the snots from the torch help the pipe "fit" correctly? The pipe is 2" nominal and the edge is maybe 5/8".View attachment 347341
I thought to weld tabs on the end and bolt back to the blade somewhere, though it's a Fisher with a trip edge. Any tips there?
Thanks, Jim

Seriously don’t get too carried away with neat n tidy. I started the snowplow blade 4 years back with oxypropane then got sick of it ( I suck at cutting). Then gave up and finished either a 7 1/4” disk on my skill saw. A cutoff blade on a small grinder works too. This time I used a plasma cutter but I haven’t used it enough to be neat with it. Neat doesn’t matter a bit really . Just hack a slit the entire length . You can spread it using a couple prys, splitting wedges ect. Once it fits over the lip barely I simply banged it on until it’s touching the other side . On the truck plow I welded on 3 tabs to align with existing holes in the frame. With the bucket it’s just sitting there and if it gets pried off I will deal with it then . I will try to think to take a couple pictures tomorrow to stick on here.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I used an angle grinder and cutoff disc to make the slit. It took forever but worked and was the only real option I had. I tried to just beat the pipe on at that point but realized my plow was much thicker than what I removed with the cutoff disc and made it a bit wider. I welded two tabs with holes drilled so I could secure it to the outermost bolt holes where the cutting edge connects to the plow.

After a season of use, I noticed pretty good wear on the schedule 40 2" pipe and went back and hard-faced the bottom. Like the true newb that I am with a welder, I forgot that putting in giant runs and heat was going to warp the pipe. I got it back on but it was a pain. I should have been more patient and done much smaller stitches. The good news is after the second season, it shows no wear and the hard-facing did its job.

 

[Dwellonroof]

How would I go about hardening a pipe, can I do it if being installed?

 

[SARG]

An old thread .... but another option for those with blacktop they don't want to scar.

Ratchet Rake, LLC - Tractor rake, Snow Edge, Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction attachment, New Holla

 

[JohnnyMX]

I just bought some 1/8" hard-facing rod for my stick welder and ran beads where I saw the pipe was starting to wear. Seeing how the contact area is going to be on the bottom it may depend on if the rod used allows it to be used in all positions and your welding skills. Mine were garbage, so I took it off and did it upside down to make it easy. Just do it in small increments (is where I messed up). You don't need continuous beads and it puts way to much heat into the pipe and will warp it. If you have a choice between schedule 40 and schedule 80 you could just get the thicker pipe and it will serve you well for many years as well.

 

[5030]

I just set my plow wheels for the height I want and call it good.

 

[D.Vance]

I have used friction cut off blades in a circular saw, takes patience and skill, used a mill, and a plasma arc cutter to slit pipe. Prefer the plasma arc cutter.
I use 2 in OD double wall pipe and weld two 1 in by 1/8 in straps bent in a U around the pipe to secure it to the FEL cutting edge. Bolts are about 4-6 in behind the cutting edge. Do the same with the cutting edge on a rear mounted blade.
Normally have to weld 6 in patches to the outer edges after two to three years of use. I maintain about 3 mi of gravel roads for myself and neighbors in NE Mo.
Rounded pipe edges do a good job of minimizing gouging of sod or gravel.

 

[Dwellonroof]

I have used friction cut off blades in a circular saw, takes patience and skill, used a mill, and a plasma arc cutter to slit pipe. Prefer the plasma arc cutter.
I use 2 in OD double wall pipe and weld two 1 in by 1/8 in straps bent in a U around the pipe to secure it to the FEL cutting edge. Bolts are about 4-6 in behind the cutting edge. Do the same with the cutting edge on a rear mounted blade.
Normally have to weld 6 in patches to the outer edges after two to three years of use. I maintain about 3 mi of gravel roads for myself and neighbors in NE Mo.
Rounded pipe edges do a good job of minimizing gouging of sod or gravel.

I used a harbor freight 7” cutoff and cut a slit in a 2” pipe I found in the loft of the barn. About 3/4 way through I noticed my pant leg was on fire.
I spread the pipe a little with a cold chisel at the beginning and drove it on the rest of the way. This year I had half the driveway blacktopped so I might be taking it off.