4-in-1 Cutting edge sharpness. Angle

   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #1  

tricky74

Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2019
Messages
27
Tractor
Eastwind DFM254
Need to do some drainage work with my little tractor.
How sharp should the cutting edge be on the bucket?
I guess the sharper the better? Mine has a few mm radius.
What is a bit confusing is all pics I see on google the bevel is on the top with the bucket opened up used as a bulldozer blade.
Mine the bevel is on the bottom so the cutting edge is the thickness of the steel above the ground unless angled way forward.
Maybe they welded it on upside down?
Will take a couple of pics soon. There may be no point in sharpening it without flipping it over?
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #2  
The bevel should definitely be on the top side of the bucket. IMG_7242.JPG
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Well it is Chinese! The bevel is on the top when back dragging.
You can see in the first pic the angle I need for the cutting edge to actually touch the ground.
I am thinking about adding teeth so may be able to change the bevel location to the top.
20201020_122415.jpg20201020_122537.jpg20201020_122510.jpg
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #5  
It's a 4 in one bucket; they get used quite a bit different than a standard one. Note that the cutting edge (as far as I can see by the one pic) of the clam is beveled the right way.

With a 4/1, usually backdragging is done with the clam shell NOT the dozer part of the bucket. The two normal ways of backdragging are clamshell CLOSED, bucket bottom flat or slightly raised in back - clamshell OPEN (all the way), bucked dumped far enough that the REAR edge (where the two halves meet) of the clam can drag. The first way is kind of a more gentle drag, would usually give a smooth surface with some compaction.

The second way (clamshell OPEN) is more useful to move a bit more material.

You do NOT wanna add teeth to the INSIDE cutting edge, especially if you wanna carry sand or loam in the bucket; Teeth in that area will almost guarantee that granular materials will leave a trail from the pile to the spreading area.

HTH... Steve
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I realised later I meant fitting teeth like in 4570Man pic. That is an entirely different edge.
I use it like a bulldozer quite a lot.
Maybe I should just sharpen the cutting edges and see how it goes then.
It was worn when I bought it.
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #7  
You might actually be better off if you get another bucket or even a blade instead of modifying your 4-way bucket. You put teeth on it and it won't close properly anymore. Go to an equipment graveyard, find a bucket or blade cheap, take it to a welder and have him fabricate a mount on it for your tractor.
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #8  
Would not want it sharp, in case I ran into it. I even had a handy man come over and round off the corners because I was afraid I'd hurt myself hitting the corners some time.

Should be about like a bush hog blade.

Ralph
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #9  
Would not want it sharp, in case I ran into it. I even had a handy man come over and round off the corners because I was afraid I'd hurt myself hitting the corners some time.

Should be about like a bush hog blade.

Ralph

What Ralph said. But, "sharp" can be relative. Like the difference between a steak knife and a butter knife. You want your bucket blade to be "sharp" but like a butter knife with a rounded edge. Too sharp (aka thin) and you will chip it and have jagged edges after hitting even the smallest rocks. For moving earth you want strong more than you want sharp.
 
   / Cutting edge sharpness. Angle #10  
Why wouldn't you just close the bucket and put a toothbar on the front edge?

A toothbar increases digging power by a near order of magnitude; highly recommended.
 
 

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