Cutting out flooring close to a wall question

[Dingeryote]

I have used a small side grinder with a cut off wheel a couple times for stuff like that.

Jamb saws work well too. Stupid things are handy for 100's of things you never think of when you don't have one.

 

[s219]

I'd not worry about getting close, and instead sister an extra joist to provide edge support for the new floor.

 

[EddieWalker]

Leave the subflooring there and add some cross bracing to the joists to attach your new sub floor.

Eddie

 

[aczlan]

Any of these will make short work of the problem.
Good Luck!
Oscillating Tools - Power Multi Tools - Power Tools - Tools & Hardware*at The Home Depot

I have one of those and it works great for similar jobs.

Aaron Z

 

[radioman]

please dont remove that subflooring under wall. All you do is let the wall sag before you can put new subfloor in. If you MUST replace it due to rot/mold and the drywall is gone from that wall, I would screw a 2x4 across the wall to prevent it sagging . You will need a combination of reciprocating blade and oscilating tool to remove the last bits of sub flooring under it. I done it and I find it can be a bit frustrating to put new floor back in under the sill plate. I found that it so much easier to have 1 foot wide by 8 ft or length of area you are replacing to finesse it in is so much easier and less whacking/twisting to get it under that 2x4 wall plate .

 

[Gary Fowler]

I didn't read that the OP wants to remove the subflooring from under the wall sill plate, just to cut the flooring close against the wall so he can install a new one to replace the rotting one. The Harbor freight flush cut will do what he wants and since it only cuts 3/4" deep he wont have to worry about cutting too deeply into the floor joist.
When I needed to cut off about 1/4" from the ends of some laminate flooring that expansion was causing some buckling, I got a ZIPTOOL with a special flush cut blade. I had left the requisite 1/4" short on each end, but on a 30 foot run that wasn't enough. I suppose this was due to the laminate being stored in the cold garage and when it warmed up in winter it expanded too much. Anyway, It worked but wasn't cheap like the HF flush cut saws.

 

[ben2go]

The bathroom floor is sagging and moldy all the way to the wall.The wall is non structural and is offset toward the utility room but is still over the floor joist.If I can get the old subfloor out close to the wall,I can lay the new subfloor right on top of the joist.From looking under the house,it appears the joist is still solid.If I have to,I will run stringers (?) from joist to joist to support the new subfloor.Any way it goes,that floor has to come out.It's to rotten and mold to stay in there.

 

[/pine]

The bathroom floor is sagging and moldy all the way to the wall.The wall is non structural and is offset toward the utility room but is still over the floor joist.If I can get the old subfloor out close to the wall,I can lay the new subfloor right on top of the joist.From looking under the house,it appears the joist is still solid.If I have to,I will run stringers (?) from joist to joist to support the new subfloor.Any way it goes,that floor has to come out.It's to rotten and mold to stay in there.

Usually when a floor is sagging it is the joists...if the crowns have reversed you can sister (scab) 2x4s to the top sides of the joists using a string to remove the sag...glue and nail the scabs to the string...

...a row of bridging or solid blocking will help distribute the the load and help prevent future sagging....

 

[GPintheMitten]

Your diagram helpsbut how about a picture or two. Can you get yourself under it? Crawl space.

From the info so far about your project, I would create support for the wall, take some of the pressure off of it and then cut between the subfloor and bottom plate and between the joist snd subfloor. Ild use either a sawzall or one of the tools the other guys mentioned. That should remove the fasteners for the subfloor and you should be able to get it out.

To supprt the shared wall, you could attach a 2 x horizontally about 6' up on both sides and wedge some 7' or so braces against it to support the wall and take some pressure off the subfloor.

Then I would sister that joist on both sides if accessible from underneath, otherwise sister the bathroom side.

I woud want support under all seems of subfloor and under that shared wall.

Thats the best I can advise without actually seeing your project first hand

 

[JimRB]

I got a Fein Multimaster when I was trying to cut our some things that I could not figure out how to cut easily any other way. Tool was used and then sat in the basement for a few years. I used it a two weeks ago at work to cut out 4.5" of chair rail in three rooms. I used it today to cut some trim out of the way of soffit my wife says I have to install. Not the most used purchase but it is a handy tool. Lots of good clones out there for occasional use and regular use. The Fein is a bit of a tank. I saw the Fein and 2 or three other brands at Home Depot the other day.