D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help

   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #1  

rox5488

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2006
Messages
42
Location
PA
Recently I have looked at many new and used tractors in the 35 to 40 HP range.

I have a personal budget limit on a payment and unfortunetly for me. the new tractors in this range with loaders are just a bit too much for me monthly payment.

So that being said I have looked heavily into used tractors. I have found 2 used tractors locally that are close to my price range.

A DX35 HST for 19K with 290 hours, FEL (116, Not QA Bucket) appearance very good, Hood a bit faded but otherwise tires and such in excellent shape. not sure on the maintenance history.

And A D40 SynchroShuttle 17K with 315 hours same setup (FEL Not QA bucket etc) Appearance ok. you can tell this tractor was used a bit more, hood is faded out more, overall you can see it was in the weather a bit more and the tires are chewed up a little more, granted still in average shape, not quite as good as the DX35.

I am hoping for some input or help with a few questions.

Can anyone tell me how the synchro shuttle works on this tractor? Do you clutch between forward and reverse?

I am going to be using this tractor for a wide range of chores around the place.

Raking hay, moving round bales ((into the barn and stacking etc, Probably 100 bales per year) Out to the hay rings in the winter which was always a challenge for my 2 wheel drive tractor with snow on the ground, Brush hogging and about 4 times a year barn cleanout. Possibly pulling a haybine a little once and awhile. (I only mow about 30 acres of hay a year so nothing terrible there).

I guess all and all a fair amount of loader work. I assumed if I got the HST I would use the cruise control when doing field work like mowing hay etc. I don't know that I would want to hold the pedal down for 4 or 5 hours.

If anyone out there would like to comment I would appreciate it! Thank you.
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #2  
Recently I have looked at many new and used tractors in the 35 to 40 HP range.

I have a personal budget limit on a payment and unfortunetly for me. the new tractors in this range with loaders are just a bit too much for me monthly payment.

So that being said I have looked heavily into used tractors. I have found 2 used tractors locally that are close to my price range.

A DX35 HST for 19K with 290 hours, FEL (116, Not QA Bucket) appearance very good, Hood a bit faded but otherwise tires and such in excellent shape. not sure on the maintenance history.

And A D40 SynchroShuttle 17K with 315 hours same setup (FEL Not QA bucket etc) Appearance ok. you can tell this tractor was used a bit more, hood is faded out more, overall you can see it was in the weather a bit more and the tires are chewed up a little more, granted still in average shape, not quite as good as the DX35.

I am hoping for some input or help with a few questions.

Can anyone tell me how the synchro shuttle works on this tractor? Do you clutch between forward and reverse?

I am going to be using this tractor for a wide range of chores around the place.

Raking hay, moving round bales ((into the barn and stacking etc, Probably 100 bales per year) Out to the hay rings in the winter which was always a challenge for my 2 wheel drive tractor with snow on the ground, Brush hogging and about 4 times a year barn cleanout. Possibly pulling a haybine a little once and awhile. (I only mow about 30 acres of hay a year so nothing terrible there).

I guess all and all a fair amount of loader work. I assumed if I got the HST I would use the cruise control when doing field work like mowing hay etc. I don't know that I would want to hold the pedal down for 4 or 5 hours.

If anyone out there would like to comment I would appreciate it! Thank you.

You'll probably get better answers and quicker response on the Case-IH Forum.
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #3  
You'll probably get better answers and quicker response on the Case-IH Forum.

I disagree. The Case-IH Forum has very limited use related to the D/DX series because most everyone knows that they are almost identical to the TCA/TCDA series of New Hollands. I think rox5488 is in the best place for advice.

What concerns me is that he previously asked about a Kubota L3540 vs the DX35 in the General Buying/Pricing Forum. Even the Kubota dealer gave him a special price that was discounted from the original offer. I think the Kubota dealer wants his business and the dealer with the DX35 isn't willing to work with him.

It seems now he is changing his standards and considering a tractor that is good, but not the best for his uses as he described them in his first post. I understand his budget is stressed, but a tractor that is out of warranty and overpriced by a couple of thousand is not a money saver in the long run. If he has a clutch failure or some other problem on a used tractor that requires splitting the tractor, he'll be out more money than he'll save by not buying the New Kubota L3540 at his latest $23,600 offer.

Please, if anyone else has thoughts on this deal, please post them. I'm sure rox5844 is tired of listening to me. He already knows my opinion.:eek::)
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #4  
I am not sure the tractors you are looking at are big enough for some of the chores you have in mind. I have a DX 33 HST and and I don't really consider these as farm tractors. I do have the quick attach bucket and would not want anything else. So much easier to mow and better visibility with no bucket sticking out front.
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #6  
What year is the Case DX35? It has to be at least a 2007 or older. A new 2010 Boomer 3040 hydro is between $20k to $22k at dealer cost with about $4k to $5k for their margin, so $19k for an older Case DX35 with less power seems too high. Between $16k and $17k for that tractor sounds more in-line depending on the year.

I not know where you live in PA, but you can get a 2004 John Deere 4120 (43HP with a 4 cylinder JD Powertech Turbo Diesel engine) w/400X loader for $19,500.00. That tractor has much more power (engine and hydraulic power) and only has 465 hours on it (this is darn good tractor!). The tractor is at Zahm & Matson's (Z&M) in their Falconer, NY location and they can truck it over to there Edinboro, PA location if you are close.

2004 JOHN DEERE 4120 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com

However, as Jinman stated, you could go with a Kubota L3540 and not worry about the headaches of a used machine.
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Hi guys

The DX35 is a 2007 the D40 a 2002

I don't disagree money is an issue. I just am trying very hard to stay at a certain payment.

that John deere is a great looking unit. No doubt about that!

The DX35 and up have a larger frame than a 33. I don't consider them a farm tractor per say but certainly a good chores tractor which is exactly what I am looking for.

Thanks for all the suggestions though. I appreciate it!

I am a bit south of edinboro (bedford county PA) but I could make a few hours drive for a good deal!

Thanks
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help
  • Thread Starter
#8  
The JD above is sold. But thanks for the link anyway!
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #9  
I have an 2007 DX35 that has the two button cruise control, My setting cruise control button does fine but the toggle switch next to it that you can use to slow down and speed up while still in cruise as stop working. the light still comes on like it's working but it doesn slow it down or speed it up. Any suggestions?
 
   / D40 vs DX35 Questions/Help #10  
Do you have a loader and joystick? If so, does the rabbit and turtle switch work on the joystick? If you don't have a loader, look under your left foot platform on the side of the transmission. You should see a small box about 4" long with wires coming out of it. It's likely some brush has snagged those wires and broken one or pulled the connector loose. This is the most common problem when rabbit/turtle don't work.

In your post, you called this "two button cruise control." That's a misnomer. The rabbit/turtle switch have nothing to do with cruise except that they still work when you are in cruise. Cruise control is nothing more than a magnet that holds the HST foot pedal in its current location when cruise is energized. It can be de-energized with the switch, stepping on both brake pedals, or shutting off the key switch (killing the engine and power resets cruise).
 

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