Damaged block installing block heater L5240

[Adiredneck]

Have you fired her off yet?

Well, I am still sitting here with the engine in the frame. My new rear main seal arrived last week. I had a machine shop press it in this time. Much nicer fit. With a liberal amount of grease, it slid on perfectly.

Saturday evening, after being out with the kids all day, I ran out to the garage to make some progress. After getting the rear main in place, things started to go wrong. The mounting bolts that hold the rear main housing on is held on by 8 bolts. When I was tightening them up, it felt wrong.. Felt like I was putting too much force on the bolts. Went and borrowed my neighbors torque wrench to double check that it wasn't faulty.

Stupid mistake. Looked at the NM instead of foot pounds. 6 pounds too much. Stretched a couple of bolts. Went in and ordered a whole new set. Probably going to set me back another two weeks. I just wanted to show some progress.

That's what I get for hurrying. However, this ordeal prompted me to look at the Clutch housing bolts that I had previously installed and removed. The manual did not have a torque rating for them and guess what... I stretched those as well. I found a generic torque table in the glossary. I ordered all new bolts for that section as well.

So maybe in two more weeks, we'll be joining the two sections together. I hope so. Now that things are drying out, I could use it..

I definitely want a 3/8 torque wrench. The one I borrowed for the engine was much easier to use on the smaller stuff. I will be going through the manual to put a red line through any torque rating that is not in foot pounds.

 

[KennyV]

More fasteners fail from over torque than any other reason...

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Wish I could find a cartoon I saw 40 years ago in a corn-binder repair shop.

Shop foreman was looking up at a mechanic working on a big rig diesel. A bolt head was flying through the air. Others on the floor. Shop foreman: "????!!!!" Mechanic: "The manual says torque them all the same ... and I broke the first one".

Best of luck getting that thing back in action It's been quite a journey.

Z.

 

[Adiredneck]

Wish I could find a cartoon I saw 40 years ago in a corn-binder repair shop.

Shop foreman was looking up at a mechanic working on a big rig diesel. A bolt head was flying through the air. Others on the floor. Shop foreman: "????!!!!" Mechanic: "The manual says torque them all the same ... and I broke the first one".

Best of luck getting that thing back in action It's been quite a journey.

Z.

A journey for sure... It's frustrating now. I am 8 hrs of labor from having it running and some bolts are the hold up. It is probably for the best though. Had this not happened, I never would have thought to check the clutch housing bolts to see if they had stretched.. That may have bit me bad, especially since they are a stressed part holding the tractor together.

 

[moship]

Adiredneck,

In response to your comment about needing a 3/8" torque wrench. A few months back one of the auto magazines (Hot Rod, CarCraft,...) did a story on torque wrench accuracy. Much to everyone's surprise one of the more accurate ones was made by Harbor Freight. In fact it did better than many of the "professional" models. The test was on 1/2" drive and not 3/8" though. With coupon found in almost any magazine they are under $20.

Hope it was the bolt that stretch and not the block threads pulling.

Good luck and thank you for sharing your progress.

 

[oldpilgrim]

my Pappy always told me to tighten them up until they break but stop just before.

 

[teg]

...one of the more accurate ones was made by Harbor Freight...

I would be interested in this report. I hope they didn't just buy one and test it... then assume the accuracy across a production line would match that one sample.

 

[moship]

teg,

I couldn't find the magazine, but hopefully this link will suffice.

Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Car Craft Magazine

 

[motownbrowne]

I like a lot of the harbor freight stuff, and I'm sure the OP doesn't particularly want this turning into a harbor freight thread, but... Personally, if I was looking for a 3/8 drive torque wrench for engine assembly, I'd have no problem buying a snap on or other fancy brand wrench. Yes, maybe the HF version is just as reliable and accurate, but I think I'd feel much more comfortable with a more well regarded tool in my hand.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

The bolt you are torquing you want to fall in the mid range of the torque wrench. On the low end of say a 3/8 click torque wrench it is easy to over torque or not feel the click. In those cases I multiply by 12 and use my smaller inch pound wrench. On the other end if you are using a 1/2 inch wrench at the upper end, they are typically hard to torque at that higher torque(wrench just not long enough), you get to the last head bolt your tired and you end up jerking the wrench. In those cases you can use a torque multiplier or bite the bullet and buy the 3/4 inch torque wrench, and sometime I end up using the torque multiplier with that, so I can cut down how hard or tired I get by the end. They are also using a torque turn method, where you torque to specs and rotate x number of degrees more. In that case they make a degree dial that you add like a short extension. You also want to chase all your bolt holes with a tap, or at least the critical ones, make sure you blow out all holes. Going into a rebuild I replace all critical bolts, (head, intake exhaust)