Damaged block installing block heater L5240

   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #381  
my Pappy always told me to tighten them up until they break but stop just before.

Yep, that is what I hope to live by, except I never get to the last part. But I always intend to. :D. Good one!
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #382  
How do you know you stretched the bolts? Just curious...

As for the torque wrench "test"... if they only tried one, well then it isn't a test, but just some play time for them. Try a few dozen of each, randomized order and we'll talk.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240
  • Thread Starter
#383  
How do you know you stretched the bolts? Just curious...

As for the torque wrench "test"... if they only tried one, well then it isn't a test, but just some play time for them. Try a few dozen of each, randomized order and we'll talk.

Oh, it's easy to see. You can take two of the bolts (one stretched and one not), put them opposite of one another and one will not touch the head of the other. Then, compare the threads and you can see that the they no longer fall into one another. I didn't need to get out the calipers for this.

Just for kicks, There are engine hoist loops bolted on the head of the engine (I found these after I had pulled the engine. They are the thickness of a 3/8 flat washer and were turned down). I torqued one to 20 Ft-Lbs with my wrench, then used my neighbors wrench. Click. Loosened the bolt and torqued it with his wrench and then tried mine. Click. I was satisfied with the consistency. I will try this test again when I borrow a friends 3/8 craftsman torque wrench.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #384  
I can't believe you drilled right through the plug, cylinder wall, and piston and had no idea. Helluva learning experience that's for sure! Glad to see it's mostly back together, anxious to see how she runs.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #386  
Oh yes, in avaition everything wants to be calibrated annually and that gets to be a costly burden.
What I ended doing was to designate one calibrated tool as my shop standard and used that one tool to compare the others to.

Being an avionic shop everything from torque wrenches (used for autopilot clutches) to volt meters and frequency counters wanted certified annual calibration.

Recall one time they wanted my master compass calibrated, I asked if they thought we might have removed 2-3 degrees from the rose and that unless the laws of physics had changed a magnet always pointed north.
They waived calibration on that one.

As to my frequency counter I once got away by claiming that I compared it monthly against WWV signal. I gave up when they demanded that I provide an approved detailed written shop procedure manual for each calibration.

Torque wrench is probably the easiest as all you need is a known weight(calibrated, LOL) and a pulley. If the torque wrench reads 50 when lifting 50 lbs you got it. If off 2 lbs you make up a cal tag that says 'for 50 read 48, etc'.

I still have an old Snapon TQ50 that is over 50 years old and is never more than +/- 1-3 psi all over range. Simple, efficient and trouble free but it does not 'click' LOL. (requires good eyes and steady hand.)
Personally I find that as long as I always use the same ratchet wrench I usually can hand tighten to within specified torque ranges and I very often verify with my torque just to confirm.
After a while most mechanics get that 'feel' with their finger tips.
\LOL, unlike most vehicle mechanics (?) that jambs the wheel lugs 'til the air gun stalls.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #387  
Adiredneck, sounds like you are being very meticulous in this project. :thumbsup: I admire your patience and thoroughness! Thanks for taking us along on the journey.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #388  
...Recall one time they wanted my master compass calibrated, I asked if they thought we might have removed 2-3 degrees from the rose and that unless the laws of physics had changed a magnet always pointed north.
They waived calibration on that one...

It is not always true that a magnet points north. In my neck of the woods declination is about 17 degrees. I.e., magnetic north is 17 degrees east of true north. The guys I hunt with never did understand that this is a huge error. If you plot your course on a map and walk a mile, you will be over 1/4 mile east of your intended destination if you do not correct.

Of course now we all have GPS units and get to our destination exactly.
 
   / Damaged block installing block heater L5240 #389  

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