Front-End Loader Danuser Intimdator

   / Danuser Intimdator #31  
I made one up today out of some scrap 2" diameter pipe about 6" long that had quite a bit of internal rust. After pulling a few 2-3" saplings this afternoon, it's already bent, but still functions and doesn't let go. The way metal prices have shot up, might as well buy a few feet of pipe to have on hand because it probably will cost more to buy in the future. Metal pipe prices at the box stores have gone through the roof. That's why I suggested sourcing it elsewhere.

edit: Used it a few more hours this afternoon. IMO, it's significantly faster than trying to double wrap a chain around a sapling and virtually 100% effective. It slipped only once and that was on a sapling that I had already pushed over and was missing half of its trunk at the base.
 
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   / Danuser Intimdator #32  
I tried the pipe and chain and it worked super-well. I am impressed. The pvc and chain held up and also pulled a few trees, tho didn't go great on small trees. Thank you to all for your insights.
 
   / Danuser Intimdator #33  
The pipe does two things.
First it allows a grab hook chain to slip or choke the load when pulled. Tightening around the tree.
Second the pipe end edges bite into the tree for better grip.

Just have to make one loop around the tree and hook into the pipe. Self tightens when pulling. The loop at the bottom goes around the tree.

Simple but highly effective tool for slippery stems or brush bunches like Russian olive, privet or multiflora roses. Can loop it wide and pull tight saves from crawling underneath.

A slip hook works too but doesn’t have the pipe edges to bite and slips off. Spring time the barks gets real loose and slippery.

Often hook up both ends of chain/pipes to different trees and pull out at the same time.

Wife bought me a fancy spring loaded, wicked looking, spiked grabber from Northern tool. This simple frontier tool works better, easier and faster.
I've nearly always either used a slip hook or double wrapped chain to pull small trees and brush until trying the chain/pipe method this weekend.

The chain/hook is not only faster to secure to the sapling because it doesn't require any fiddling to put into proper place, but the pipe edge really digs into the sapling and the chain tightens more securely than any other method I've tried.

IMO, this is one of the most effective, cheapest and quickest tips I've ever come across.
 
   / Danuser Intimdator
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I've nearly always either used a slip hook or double wrapped chain to pull small trees and brush until trying the chain/pipe method this weekend.

The chain/hook is not only faster to secure to the sapling because it doesn't require any fiddling to put into proper place, but the pipe edge really digs into the sapling and the chain tightens more securely than any other method I've tried.

IMO, this is one of the most effective, cheapest and quickest tips I've ever come across.

Tip I saw on FarmShow magazine…30 years ago?Great magazine that I’ve enjoyed.

Works on rocks too. Irregular shape hard to choke and easy to slip so having some teeth helps.
 
   / Danuser Intimdator #35  
That might work for thinning my pine stands. 800 - 1200 small ( 1" to 6" on the butt ) pines. Every other year now. I use a chain saw for a couple reasons. It's really quick - it leaves the root ball in the ground. I end up dragging these pines to collection piles and then chipping them. I do not want to be running root balls thru my chipper.

With my little Stihl - I average 150 to 175 pines cut out per hour. I've found it works best if I take a half hour break every two hours or so.
There is a product made purposely for this use.

 
   / Danuser Intimdator #39  
Josh, it is more efficient because the pipe nearly always grabs the tree without having to carefully wrap the chain multiple times and then hoping the chain will actually grab. It takes a few minutes to cut the opening in the pipe, but it saves much more time having to get on and off the tractor.

Looping the chain over a wheel still gives you additional leverage in an upward direction.

I have a log choker cable, but like the pipe much better because the lip of the pipe will actually dig into the trunk making it more slip resistant. Pipe is cheap at the scrapyard.
 
   / Danuser Intimdator #40  
The pipe does two things.
First it allows a grab hook chain to slip or choke the load when pulled. Tightening around the tree.
Second the pipe end edges bite into the tree for better grip.

Just have to make one loop around the tree and hook into the pipe. Self tightens when pulling. The loop at the bottom goes around the tree.

Simple but highly effective tool for slippery stems or brush bunches like Russian olive, privet or multiflora roses. Can loop it wide and pull tight saves from crawling underneath.

A slip hook works too but doesn’t have the pipe edges to bite and slips off. Spring time the barks gets real loose and slippery.

Often hook up both ends of chain/pipes to different trees and pull out at the same time.

Wife bought me a fancy spring loaded, wicked looking, spiked grabber from Northern tool. This simple frontier tool works better, easier and faster.
This works well pulling multifloral rose, and other bushy shrubs.
 
 

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