Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Martian]

Just got my 110 and took the BH off and put the BB on just to make sure it worked. I'd already tested it out on the 3120 and everything worked, but I wanted to see how the BH came off and make sure all was working before I took it to the cabin and a lot farther from any service people. After putting everything on the rippers don't go all the way up to where they are out of the way of the dirt or far enough down so the latch hooks on and stops the rippers from being pulled back. I don't know why it would do this? I did have it hooked up to the toggle switch instead of the levers if that makes any difference. Once it gets to a certain point it just loads the tractor and will not raise/lower further. I've never seen anything like this. It obviously has to be the 110 and not the BB because the 3120 will raise and lower it perfectly fine. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?


Thanks for any and all help!

 

[AKfish]

I did have it hooked up to the toggle switch instead of the levers if that makes any difference. Once it gets to a certain point it just loads the tractor and will not raise/lower further.

Thanks for any and all help!

What do you mean - "levers"? The 3 rear mounted SCV's are all operated via the loader joystick - the only lever is the 3pt hitch control.

I set the topntilt functions (2 out of 3) to work from the SCV's @ top function is back and forth motion on the joystick and the tilt is @ the side to side motion on the joystick. You'd have to refer to the OP manual to identify which SCV is dedicated to the different motion directions on the joystick.

The 3rd function is the rocker switch on the face of the joystick. If it were me; I'd use this to operate the ripper teeth.

Any chance that the top cylinder is either set too long or too short and messing up the ripper tooth bar lift?

AKfish

 

[Martian]

What do you mean - "levers"? The 3 rear mounted SCV's are all operated via the loader joystick - the only lever is the 3pt hitch control.

I set the topntilt functions (2 out of 3) to work from the SCV's @ top function is back and forth motion on the joystick and the tilt is @ the side to side motion on the joystick. You'd have to refer to the OP manual to identify which SCV is dedicated to the different motion directions on the joystick.

The 3rd function is the rocker switch on the face of the joystick. If it were me; I'd use this to operate the ripper teeth.

Any chance that the top cylinder is either set too long or too short and messing up the ripper tooth bar lift?

AKfish

Sorry, I did a really poor job explaining it. I said levers just for people that weren't familiar with the 110. But yes, right now I do have it set up for the top cylinder to be moved by the forward and back and the side to side is the tilt, but the 3rd function (referred to as the toggle) for the rippers. The problem is when I press the 3rd function button it doesn't raise/lower the rippers all the way. Nothing is obstructing them and immediately preceding the hook up to the 110 I had it hooked to the 3120 and it's actual lever raised and lowered the rippers fulling into place. It seems as though there is some sort of shut off valve that only allows so much to be taken through before it stops itself. I might have to take a video to better explain myself

 

[Martian]

Ok, getting a lot of practice taking this box blade on and off. Here's two video's, first is the 110 and second is the 3120. See how the 3120 even latches it and the 110 doesn't as well as the extra 10" in the air it goes. The 110 sounds more under load while the 3120 is more a squeal.

110
3120

 

[AKfish]

The one difference between the two tractors was the start location of the tooth bar clamp. Again, is that something that is changed (or could be changed) by the top link adjustment.

If you look at the beginning of the videos; you pan the lower linkage of the box blade. Note the difference in the clamp (looks like the open end of a pipe wrench).

AKfish

 

[Martian]

The one difference between the two tractors was the start location of the tooth bar clamp. Again, is that something that is changed (or could be changed) by the top link adjustment.

If you look at the beginning of the videos; you pan the lower linkage of the box blade. Note the difference in the clamp (looks like the open end of a pipe wrench).

AKfish

Sorry, I think I'm confused. How would the TL adjustment help? The hook or clamp is controlled by the ripper cylinder, once it goes all the way down the rippers stop, but the clamp keeps going to lock it in to prevent the rippers from being forced back by the cylinder alone not stopping it. Part of the problem is the cylinder won't take it all the way down to latch. Maybe we're talking about two different things?

 

[jenkinsph]

Looked at the videos and still think it is air in the lines. Looks like you have good flow though so I wouldn't suspect any other problems.

 

[Martian]

To reply to your other post as well, the dealer did do a complete service. Wanted the pros to make sure all was good. Looking at the pics from the ad the ripper was roughly in the same place. May just be a coincidence. So would you just suggest just working the rippers up and down?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[jenkinsph]

Yes, and let it hit the relief valve for a 1/4 second at each end, that will help force the air out of the system. If this doesn't correct the problem within a minute or two let us know.

 

[Martian]

Yes, and let it hit the relief valve for a 1/4 second at each end, that will help force the air out of the system. If this doesn't correct the problem within a minute or two let us know.

Will do, thanks for the help. Wont be till tomorrow that I get around to it, though. Getting late here on the east coast!

 

[AKfish]

Sorry, I think I'm confused. How would the TL adjustment help? The hook or clamp is controlled by the ripper cylinder, once it goes all the way down the rippers stop, but the clamp keeps going to lock it in to prevent the rippers from being forced back by the cylinder alone not stopping it. Part of the problem is the cylinder won't take it all the way down to latch. Maybe we're talking about two different things?

No... I'm likely the confused party. I don't own a hyd box blade - so, I'm going on what visually appears to be out of sync between the position of the clamp when the BB is on the 3120 versus the clamp position on the 110.

But, we're talking about the same thing. If the cylinder won't go all the way (retract) that would account for the clamp position differences between the 3120 and the 110.

Steve has the identical model you've got - so, he's probably had a similar experience with the cylinder as you're currently experiencing.

AKfish

 

[Zebrafive]

Would looping a hose (in place of the ripper cylinder lines) expedite getting the air out of the tractors system?

 

[Martian]

Just dinked around with the box blade for the last hour. Did what you told me Steve, no luck. Probably went up and down 50 times over a couple minutes, didn't budge one way or another any further than where it was at. So then I went and took the BB off and put it back on the 3120 and put it all the way up to see if it would give full motion, after I relieved the pressure it was only sagging about an inch. Put it back on the 110 and now it goes all the way forward and back, except for about an inch. It wouldn't bother me at all, but it doesn't go the extra inch to latch it and I'd be afraid that while ripping the hydraulic cylinder alone wouldn't hold the rippers there. I'm starting to question whether it is air in the system because now I've got a lot more motion than I did before. It opens and closes with authority, the only problem is it doesn't go that inch all the way up, which doesn't bother me, but it doesn't push it all the way down to latch it.

AKfish,

I understand what your saying, I thought the same thing when I first saw the blades. The TL and the rippers are not connected though. There is a separate cylinder. But that cylinder doesn't open or close all the way far enough to allow the box blade's rippers to fully open or close.

 

[catdozer]

Not very familiar but can you switch the hoses for the box blade with your sidelink or toplink. And see if you get the same motion as before

 

[Martian]

Not very familiar but can you switch the hoses for the box blade with your sidelink or toplink. And see if you get the same motion as before

I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

 

[catdozer]

I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

I would try, since it works on your 3120. Just switch the lines, if the TNT works the lines should work for the boxblade

 

[AKfish]

I could do that, just didn't feel like dealing with switching them. For some reason the quick connects on the 110 are being a real PITA. If it must be, I can switch them around, but I like the way it's set up right now. A lot smoother than having the top and tilt work for the joystick and the ripper for the 3rd function.

Yeah... having those additional 3 rear SCV's is really a sweet option.. but, they're tucked back in a location that is really a PITA!!! I looked at the Kubota layout and thought it was UGLY - but, it's really EASY to connect and disconnect hyd lines!

Martian, is it possible that the hyd cylinder is not the correct one? Stroke length is insufficient? Or is the shaft still not fully retracting - indicating a continued problem with air, etc. in the hyd system?

AKfish

Thought about what I had just asked... Duh..!! Same cylinder with both tractors - one works, other - nada.

 

[Martian]

Yeah... having those additional 3 rear SCV's is really a sweet option.. but, they're tucked back in a location that is really a PITA!!! I looked at the Kubota layout and thought it was UGLY - but, it's really EASY to connect and disconnect hyd lines!

Martian, is it possible that the hyd cylinder is not the correct one? Stroke length is insufficient? Or is the shaft still not fully retracting - indicating a continued problem with air, etc. in the hyd system?

AKfish

Thought about what I had just asked... Duh..!! Same cylinder with both tractors - one works, other - nada.

Just a little troublesome getting my hand in there. And I agree Kubotas set up is great for access, but very ugly. Looks like a sloppily done aftermarket job. Not to mention there 3rd function joystick isn't nearly as nice. Ok, so I may be a little biased

I think I'll be bugging the dealer tomorrow about this one. Doesn't seem like air, but who knows.

Before I try it, what would throwing the switch for the continuous flow do? Just a quick on/off to see if it would get any air further out? Or is that a bad idea?

 

[jenkinsph]

Would looping a hose (in place of the ripper cylinder lines) expedite getting the air out of the tractors system?

BINGO! I considered posting this last night but thought Martian wouldn't have to go that far. If still having problems thats what I would do next.

 

[jenkinsph]

Just a little troublesome getting my hand in there. And I agree Kubotas set up is great for access, but very ugly. Looks like a sloppily done aftermarket job. Not to mention there 3rd function joystick isn't nearly as nice. Ok, so I may be a little biased

I think I'll be bugging the dealer tomorrow about this one. Doesn't seem like air, but who knows.

Before I try it, what would throwing the switch for the continuous flow do? Just a quick on/off to see if it would get any air further out? Or is that a bad idea?

If it works without issue on the 3x20 machine I am reasonably certain the issue is air in the lines.