Deere 110 with BB1284 box blade, not working properly?

[Martian]

I know that it was working properly with the remotes controlled by the loader joy stick, but does it work properly hooked up to the valve that had been giving you trouble with the ripper bar? Trying to confirm just air in the lines or is there some sort of problem with the valve? :confused3:

Duh!! Sorry for the confusion. I did not test out the TL with the troublesome remote. I should've done that, though. I'll work on that tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Thanks again for the help

 

[Martian]

Martian, sometimes you just have to trust us. :laughing:

You can say it Steve, "You told me so" Feel good?

 

[Martian]

I know that it was working properly with the remotes controlled by the loader joy stick, but does it work properly hooked up to the valve that had been giving you trouble with the ripper bar? Trying to confirm just air in the lines or is there some sort of problem with the valve? :confused3:

I just tried it, didn't want to move at all. I switched the hoses each way.

The dealer didn't think that it was air, though I am going to get a hose. They didn't have all the stuff though. The dealer thinks it's more with a faulty coupler than air in the lines. We will have to see when I get my hose made up if it loads the tractor and then it will definitely be a faulty quick disconnect.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I mentioned trying a different cylinder 14 post's ago


Matt

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This may be hard to believe, I know that I can't get my mind to, but it is what it is. 2 separate customers that I have sold "TnT" kits to, both with Kubota L5740s. Install the kits and either the hydraulics didn't work or didn't work properly. Changed the male ends that I had supplied and everything worked fine. Why would this happen, who knows? No one else has had any problems with the same exact ends. Stuff is made with certain tolerances and if the 2 pieces happen to be at the opposite ends of the tolerances, then sometimes stuff just doesn't work right. So maybe, just maybe your quick connects are the problem. That would actually be nice if indeed that is the problem.

 

[Martian]

This may be hard to believe, I know that I can't get my mind to, but it is what it is. 2 separate customers that I have sold "TnT" kits to, both with Kubota L5740s. Install the kits and either the hydraulics didn't work or didn't work properly. Changed the male ends that I had supplied and everything worked fine. Why would this happen, who knows? No one else has had any problems with the same exact ends. Stuff is made with certain tolerances and if the 2 pieces happen to be at the opposite ends of the tolerances, then sometimes stuff just doesn't work right. So maybe, just maybe your quick connects are the problem. That would actually be nice if indeed that is the problem.

I know what your saying. What troubles me is that I bought this 110 and the box blade as a 'package' deal and the previous owner used the box blade on the tractor. Which makes me question if it didn't work for him (and he didn't tell me) or it was something that occurred when my dealer was servicing it. Either way, if it doesn't allow hydraulic fluid through this hose, I'll be needing new quick connects.

 

[Martian]

I mentioned trying a different cylinder 14 post's ago


Matt

Thanks Matt, I should've given you credit, I just didn't feel like going back that far to find your post.

 

[Zebrafive]

Now that we're talking QCs are you thinking it's the male tips or the females on the tractor? A little swapping of them should tell.

 

[Martian]

Now that we're talking QCs are you thinking it's the male tips or the females on the tractor? A little swapping of them should tell.

I still have to get home and try the hose that I got made up to make sure, but I could only imagine that it would be the females on the tractor. Since I've put the males into different females and they worked fine, it has to be that set of remotes.

 

[Martian]

My theory is that the female return is not functioning properly. I would think that it has enough to let it go almost all the way up and down, but that the pressure is to great the last few inches. I'm not that familiar with this stuff, though, so it's just a guess.

Another question, If I do have to take the female coupler off, how do I keep the tractor from losing a lot of hydraulic oil?

 

[Martian]

Just got the chance to try the hose out, and I'm pretty sure it confirmed my guess. I used the flow hydraulics and no matter what it would load the tractor. I did take not though that with them flowing in one direction the hose would stiffen as if the fluid were in the lines and in the other it would empty, telling me that the problem lies within the return QC. I believe it is the top left that is having the problem.

If I were to need a new QC, how would I go about changing it?

 

[AKfish]

Just got the chance to try the hose out, and I'm pretty sure it confirmed my guess. I used the flow hydraulics and no matter what it would load the tractor. I did take not though that with them flowing in one direction the hose would stiffen as if the fluid were in the lines and in the other it would empty, telling me that the problem lies within the return QC. I believe it is the top left that is having the problem.

If I were to need a new QC, how would I go about changing it?

Get the part's diagram from JDPart's. Should only leak a small amount of fluid as it's not under pressure and above the sump level.

AKfish

Might have to take the rear fender off, etc. It's not a user friendly location...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My theory is that the female return is not functioning properly. I would think that it has enough to let it go almost all the way up and down, but that the pressure is to great the last few inches. I'm not that familiar with this stuff, though, so it's just a guess.

Another question, If I do have to take the female coupler off, how do I keep the tractor from losing a lot of hydraulic oil?

With the tractor engine off, release any pressure that may be in the line. With the remote valve closed, remove the female end and install the new end. Should lose next to nothing as long as the valve never gets opened.

Remember being a kid and covering the end of a straw and the drink would stay in the straw? Well, the valve is your finger and the hydraulic line is the straw.

 

[Martian]

Get the part's diagram from JDPart's. Should only leak a small amount of fluid as it's not under pressure and above the sump level.

AKfish

Might have to take the rear fender off, etc. It's not a user friendly location...

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.

With the tractor engine off, release any pressure that may be in the line. With the remote valve closed, remove the female end and install the new end. Should lose next to nothing as long as the valve never gets opened.

Remember being a kid and covering the end of a straw and the drink would stay in the straw? Well, the valve is your finger and the hydraulic line is the straw.

As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

 

[AKfish]

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.

As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

Well.... you can always pull your finger off the straw and look! :laughing: Let whatever hyd fluid flow out - that will flow out.

AKfish

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That may be my bigger concern is how the heck I'm going to get my hand and wrench in there to get it out.



As a kid? I still do that! :laughing: Makes perfect sense though.

Before I get a new disconnect, theres no chance it's something blocked in the line and not the disconnect is there?

Anything is possible.

 

[jenkinsph]

Martian,
If you take the female coupler off and one of the male couplers off your hose and mate them together you should be able to determine whether it is restricted or not. I would make certain the couplers were mated up all the way first though.

I have the hoe on mine right now but would think a crowfoot socket might be what you need to back off the coupler. Something else you could check for, make sure the tubing from the quickcouplers to the valve are not mashed or damaged.

 

[jenkinsph]

Martian,
On one of the other thread you mentioned bleeding off the pressure being difficult with the diverter. If you shut down the engine then turn the key to the on position without starting you can then select the rear outlets with the diverter valve and work the lever and rocker switch to relieve pressure.

 

[Martian]

Martian,
On one of the other thread you mentioned bleeding off the pressure being difficult with the diverter. If you shut down the engine then turn the key to the on position without starting you can then select the rear outlets with the diverter valve and work the lever and rocker switch to relieve pressure.

Thanks Steve,

I figured there was a way. I didn't think about turning the key, but without the key turned you can't 'access' the aux ports. I'll have to try it out when I take it off next time.

I haven't had much time to go and check it all out, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do from here. I have some friends that know more about this stuff than I, so I want them to check it out before I do anything else. I wouldn't want to spend a lot of time to find out that what I did was meaning less. I'll be giving it a good look over this weekend to see if that is what I need done. If these quick connects were out in the open to access I would have probably already had it off and tried it, but I have a feeling I'll have to remove the fender to get any access to it and will turn into a much larger project.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Zebrafive]

If putting known good female QCs on which ever of the 3 rear SCVs that is causing the problem does not fix it, next check the lines for damage (dented, smashed kinked). Last I would suspect a problem with the diverter valve. I doubt you will have plugged line.