Deere 2R vs 3R

[dodge man]

I personally don't have a problem with either the 4wd lever or the differential lock. The differential lock might be a little small, you just have to make sure you have your heel on it.

 

[WinterDeere]

I personally don't have a problem with either the 4wd lever or the differential lock. The differential lock might be a little small, you just have to make sure you have your heel on it.

Cool. Do you use the diff lock? The one on the 855 is a large lever, and the only thing to hit on the heal of the left foot tread, so I’m just in the habit of mashing my boot down on it without even looking. I was thinking I’m going to kick that 4wd engagement lever a lot on the 2038R doing the same, but maybe not.

When I visited my Deere dealer, they didn’t seem to indicate that test driving the tractors was an option. I supposed I need to ask? This is the first time I’ve ever bought a new tractor larger than a lawn tractor, my past machines of this size were both used.

Oh, hey... one last question. The dealer told me you have to hold the PTO button down on the 2R’s to reverse the tractor with PTO engaged. I explained that obviously wouldn’t work for my 3-point snowblower, which made him stop and think. Then he said he *thought* maybe it was only for the mid-PTO, but didn’t sound sure at all. What’s the situation with reversing and the PTO running? Also, what’s the situation for running the PTO while you’re off the seat, as in for a log splitter?

 

[dodge man]

Yes you have to hold the PTO button down when backing up with the mid mount pto going. I'm not 100% sure on the rear pto, but I don't think so. I do use my rear PTO but not very often. I think I've only used it once for my fertilizer spreader. Also you don't have to hold it down all the time, just when you start to back up. There are ways to bypass the requirement to hold the button down. JD calls it RIO. On the larger 2 series, the 2032 and the 3038 you can turn it off using a series of buttons on the display. On the 2025 I think you have to do some wiring to bypass it.

For me the 4wd lever is just not an issue, I think it sits low enough to the floor I don't hit it with my feet.

I assume to make the rear PTO to work while off the tractor you just tip the seat up but haven't had to do that yet.

I do use my diff lock all the time, mainly when mowing up a steep hill. It engages really easy. Never an issue for me.

My dealer let me drive mine around the lot before I bought it and showed me how everything works. It always hard to know how well you are going to like it until you get it home and use it a few hours.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks, Dodge man!

 

[WinterDeere]

Well, I went with the 2032r. It was a tough choice, the extra capacity of the 3033r would have been nice in some ways, but the 2R is just a better fit for a lot of what I do. I really like the ergonomics of the 2R’s in a lot of ways, mostly the ease of getting on and off from both sides.

I added the following:

1. 57” heavy-duty bucket
2. Power Beyond kit
3. Third and fourth channel hydraulics
4. Premium LED lighting kit
5. Turf tires

Gotta decide on filling the tires, so would appreciate any advice on that, based on the usage I outlined in the OP.

Also, if anyone knows how they plumb all those hydro channels to rear (six fittings!!) on that small machine, is love to see it.

 

[airbiscuit]

Good choice. Your current attachments should be about the right size. I think you will want your tires loaded for loader work, snowblowing and all around traction. Are you installing the additional hydraulics, or just wanting to see how they fit them in?

 

[WinterDeere]

Good choice. Your current attachments should be about the right size. I think you will want your tires loaded for loader work, snowblowing and all around traction. Are you installing the additional hydraulics, or just wanting to see how they fit them in?

Dealer installed hydraulics, so it’s their problem to figure it out.

But I spoke too soon, as a funny thing happened when I told my wife that I had picked the smaller machine, and she saw the way my current machine struggling to push my firewood cart. She told me I should’ve gone with the 3033R! She asked why I’m trying to save money on something I could have for the next 20+ years.

Dealer has not taken deposit or likely done anything with the order on a Saturday, so I guess there’s still time to change it. The price difference is a non-issue, it really just comes down to which machine will work better for me. The 3033r has same wheel base, same PSI on lawn, but more width and more weight. Driving both on the lawn at the dealer, they mad exactly the same amount of impression under each soil condition we tried.

I’m back on the fence!

 

[dodge man]

Either way load the tires. You will also want some kind of counterbalance on the back.

 

[airbiscuit]

Keep that wife!

 

[WinterDeere]

Either way load the tires. You will also want some kind of counterbalance on the back.

I’ve got a ballast box, probably about 650 lb. it’s a great size for my 855, but Deere specs that same box for both of the new machines in question. Was planning to try unloaded tires first, since I do so much lawn work. I’ve heard so much conflicting info on filled tires that I don’t know what to believe. It definitely changes the dynamics of tire behavior, having the weight in, rather than on the tire. Not sure if that’s good or bad for lawn use.

 

[WinterDeere]

Keep that wife!

She has her moments, often when I’m trying to short-change myself and save a buck. But the 2R does have some legit advantages, which complicate the decision.

- loader control doesn’t block access to get on-off from right side
- lack of seat suspension means seat doesn’t pinch your thighs against wheel when trying to get off tractor with wheel tilted down
- better loader visibility due to narrower and lower hood, and lack of cast lower loader arms
- lower operator seat means less of my head catching tree branches
- superior lighting, the 2R premium lighting kit has 5 LED lights! The 3033r add o kit only has 2 standard lights.
- 4 hydraulic channels for less than 3R’s 3 channels.

 

[Milo]

Well, I went with the 2032r. It was a tough choice, the extra capacity of the 3033r would have been nice in some ways, but the 2R is just a better fit for a lot of what I do. I really like the ergonomics of the 2R’s in a lot of ways, mostly the ease of getting on and off from both sides.

Congratulations! I believe you made a good decision.

.....Gotta decide on filling the tires, so would appreciate any advice on that, based on the usage I outlined in the OP.

Personally given how you plan on using it I would not fill tires on a tractor like yours. One of the advantages of the 2R over a 3R is the lighter weight, yet you still have 4wd when you require more traction. As far as offsetting a loaded FEL bucket, loaded tires by themselves are not enough anyway, you're much better off with ballast behind the rear axle. Then there's dealing with a puncture......

 

[dodge man]

650 lbs is probably a pretty good number.

 

[airbiscuit]

You could buy wheel weights instead.

 

[WinterDeere]

Congratulations! I believe you made a good decision.

hah! Keep reading. :laughing:

One of the advantages of the 2R over a 3R is the lighter weight, yet you still have 4wd when you require more traction.

It's interesting. I drove the 2R and the 3R all over the lawn at the dealer, both high dry areas and low wet areas. The temperature was 19F this morning, but it had been in the 50's all week, so the ground just had a touch of frost at the surface with wet below. Both machines left exactly the same amount of rut in the ground in each soil condition, no real discernable difference between them.

I suspect that this is because of the difference in tire diameters, the 3R has much larger tires. I've always read that tire contact patch size is dependent on tire diameter, so this makes sense, their weight to tire diameter ratios are nearly perfectly equal, so the psi pressure they’re applying to the ground is likely very similar.

650 lbs is probably a pretty good number.

2032R = 470 lb. of RimGuard
3033R = 684 lb. of RimGuard

You could buy wheel weights instead.

That's what I have on my 855, and they work great! I priced them for the new machines, but... ****, they're expensive!

 

[TCowner]

Not only must you keep that wife but please ask her to write a book on the proper care and treatment of a husband during the stressful time of purchasing a tractor. Her words of encouragement that actually suggest spending more money for a tractor and equipment is testament to her wisdom.

 

[Milo]

hah! Keep reading. :laughing:


......Both machines left exactly the same amount of rut in the ground in each soil condition, no real discernable difference between them.

I suspect that this is because of the difference in tire diameters, the 3R has much larger tires. I've always read that tire contact patch size is dependent on tire diameter, so this makes sense, their weight to tire diameter ratios are nearly perfectly equal, so the psi pressure they’re applying to the ground is likely very similar.


2032R = 470 lb. of RimGuard
3033R = 684 lb. of RimGuard


That's what I have on my 855, and they work great! I priced them for the new machines, but... ****, they're expensive!

OK the 3033's tires are enough larger they offset its additional weight.

For $200 (plus a couple rattle cans of paint) I went just with this ballast box and filled it with stone. It puts the weight where it is best utilized, behind the rear axle. If you need to get in tight places it's much more compact than hanging a box blade or most other implements back there (I regularly have my tractor in the woods). It carries a shovel and rake in the built in holders. Extra weight is not needed so it's not there when I have my flail mower or RC on the back, unlike filled tires. Much easier to take on and off than wheel weights, and cheaper.

Ballast Box 3 Point Category 1 Tractor Attachment

 

[WinterDeere]

I have a Deere ballast box, and I put my own tubes in there to hold shovels and rakes before filling it with concrete, but I have to admit I like the one you just posted even better.



The ballast box is great for front to back balance, and reducing load in front axle, but it’s center of gravity is high enough that I have always doubted its merit for sideways rollover prevention on a slope. My property is arranged that I do have to traverse sideways slopes very frequently with a load in the bucket. It’s never been a problem on the 855, but the loader to ballast box weight ratio is about 1:1 on that machine. The 320R loader on the 3933R can lift 3x my OEM ballast box capacity.

 

[Milo]

Heck you didn't even have to buy paint!

On side slopes I lower mine to a few inches off the ground so most of the weight is below axle height, I just have to remember to raise it up some when going across a ditch or rough ground.

 

[WinterDeere]

Heck you didn't even have to buy paint!

On side slopes I lower mine to a few inches off the ground so most of the weight is below axle height, I just have to remember to raise it up some when going across a ditch or rough ground.

Yeah, that’s exactly what I do.

Last chance to sway my decision, I need to email dealer before bed tonight! Current plan is to tell him to change from 2032R to 3033R.

Any concerns with “only” 32 hp on that size machine? I figure gearing can give me all the grunt I need, and I’m not exactly doing highway speeds on it.