Delo 400

JimMorrissey · Oct 11, 2005

So what's a good basic oil I can use for the next 100 hours? I'm putting a lot of hours on the machine lately and I'm 12 hours over the interval. Don't really want to have Amsoil shipped. I'm cerain it's amazing oil, but just don't know if that is necessary for this type of equipment.

Is the ash level really that bad for a diesel designed to live forever with RPMs rarely over 2500? I don't know, just wondering....I'm going to can the Delo.

gsxr1100 · Oct 11, 2005

I agree a block heater works great. But add in the extra cost and electrical use??? Use a better oil and I think it would save you time and money.

That is me though

JimMorrissey · Oct 11, 2005

When it's snowing and it's really cold or I have to use the machine for something, I'll use the block heater (already installed) and I'd like a better oil than the Delo 400.

Just not sure what to use that I can buy locally and not have to have shipped. I don't need the best, just want something "good" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

botaman2 · Oct 11, 2005

I have been using Delo 400 in my L3010 since new,I'am now approaching 700 hrs. I never really had a problem starting,however I did install a block heater. The main reason being, did not want to wait around for proper warmup.A block heater warms so completely,that waiting is unnecessary.

gsxr1100 · Oct 11, 2005

I agree but why use a block heater with a better oil with a lower pour/pumping temp??

To me, unless the temp is below -30 F you should not need a block heater with a good oil.

gsxr1100 · Oct 11, 2005

I agree..

As I have stated many times Amsoil is NOT the best oil in the world. It is the best oil for the money. I can buy Amsoil, Redline etc online or at my local store. But Redline is about $3 more per qt retail.

gsxr1100 · Oct 11, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So what's a good basic oil I can use for the next 100 hours? I'm putting a lot of hours on the machine lately and I'm 12 hours over the interval. Don't really want to have Amsoil shipped. I'm cerain it's amazing oil, but just don't know if that is necessary for this type of equipment.

Is the ash level really that bad for a diesel designed to live forever with RPMs rarely over 2500? I don't know, just wondering....I'm going to can the Delo. )</font>

I would look for a group 3 (if you want) or step up to a 4 or group 5. I pay about 16 per gallon for Amosil 15w-40 HDD&M and $24 (I think) for there best diesel oil out there, Series 3000 5w30; which I am using right now to test.

The only other cheaper oil is like Rotella and again, I refuse to pay $12+ for a group 3 dino oil. It is a complete ripoff in my eyes.

Ash, from what I understand can fouling spark plugs, filling ring groves with deposits, valve wear, etc.

The problem is ash (metal sulfated ash ) comes from Detergent/Dispersant pkg. To get an ashless oil, it takes $$$$, and most people complain about prices now. Ash can come from Zinc, Mg, Sodium, Lead, Copper, Boron, etc. This happens when the additive phk comes in contact with acid (sulfuric). So if you have a high Noack oil and high ash levels, when the oil evaporates due to temps, you will have higher then normal ash levels. This will lead to wear.

Again, I personally like ashless oils.

JimMorrissey · Oct 11, 2005

I like to use mine to help with the hydro fluid temps too. The engine starts so darn nicely when it's warm from the heater. I only put it on about an hour before I use the machine, so it doesn't waste too much and it doesn't have to sit and idle for 20 minutes burning fuel. A friend of mine keeps his plugged in all winter, which I think is excessive.

JimMorrissey · Oct 11, 2005

So Rotella is a reasonable solution here....I take it the synthetic T is the stuff to get? I don't care about the few extra bucks, as long as it's "good" oil and I can get it without having to jump through hoops.

Maybe I'll move to Amsoil when I'm done with this 100 hour series. Will it be OK to move from Delo 400 to Rotella T and then to Amsoil?