Delo 400

cowboydoc · Oct 12, 2005

Soundguy you are absolutely right about why I don't post them. First of all you would need to see the complete four years of tests to make a true comparison. Second it would be as simple as scanning into photoshop or another program and making the #'s say whatever I wanted. Mike could be doing the same thing with his tests. I could go right now and download his very test and put my own #'s on it and make it look however I wanted. As far as looking at the tests yes you are absolutey right. We are looking for metals, fuel, coolant, contamination, etc. Yes the oil #'s were still good with synthetic and with rotella but what the heck good are the #'s being good if the oil is contaminated?

Arthur,

states a lot of stuff about performance and numbers etc but most of that is not transferrable to the average tractor users, right? How many of us own combines? In my little setup of a 16 - 20 HP tractors, in wet areas, how does your usage without data matter to me?!? I have never said it did or didn't matter. It's simply what has worked for us and our situations. No more no less. If you or anyone else wants to use synthetic then do it. The poster asked about Rotella. I posted our experience with it. My opinion based on our useage. You may see different results. You or anyone else wants to use synthetic that's great. It's a great oil. We just didn't see any cost saving or increased protetction. That's my opinion based on my experiences. Why do I have to prove that?

I mean you guys really want objective data then setup a research project. My tests, Mike's tests, or anyone else's mean nothing unless you get that test from the mfg. Anything can be manipulated or changed. Let's all pick an oil, stay with that oil for a certain amount of time. Document how you used the tractor, hours, etc. Have the results sent directly from Blackstone or whatever oil analysis you choose to one person. Have one person read the data and post it. Have a certified oil expert interpret the data. We can all pay for our own oil tests and chip in for the researcher to interpret the tests. That is the ONLY way you are going to have objective 100% true facts. Other than that my data or anyone else's means nothing if you are really going to PROVE one way or the other.

arthr31 · Oct 12, 2005

no problem, just using your posts as a reference in my post... that's all. good oiling, for now and ever, no matter what the brand or weight!! -art

JimMorrissey · Oct 12, 2005

I'll definitely be using my block heater on anything around 10 degrees or colder, so hopefully that won't be too much of a problem.

cowboydoc · Oct 13, 2005

good oiling, for now and ever, no matter what the brand or weight!! -art 

Amen Art. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Well said and the best truth spoken in this whole thread. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

gsxr1100 · Oct 13, 2005

You need 4 –years to make a true comparisons. Says who? You go by # of tests, not by a timeline! These tests give you a baseline for wear. The oils tests could carless on the time length (in years), they care about hours.

( Second it would be as simple as scanning into photoshop or another program and making the #'s say whatever I wanted.)

Yup, I could be doing the samething. But #1 I have at least posted something and #2 if you have a basic understand on base oils and add pkg’s (as I noted previously) that is pretty hard to do. #3) you would need adobe writer which many will not have. #4) you are telling me to scan in my oil tests? I think I have asked the samething for you for over 10 months. Or at least transcribe the values.

And all this talk about lying is pretty hard when or if the user base basic understanding on add’s and base stocks.

( I mean you guys really want objective data then setup a research project. My tests, Mike's tests, or anyone else's mean nothing unless you get that test from the mfg. Anything can be manipulated or changed. Let's all pick an oil, stay with that oil for a certain amount of time. Document how you used the tractor, hours, etc. Have the results sent directly from Blackstone or whatever oil analysis you choose to one person. Have one person read the data and post it. Have a certified oil expert interpret the data. We can all pay for our own oil tests and chip in for the researcher to interpret the tests. That is the ONLY way you are going to have objective 100% true facts. Other than that my data or anyone else's means nothing if you are really going to PROVE one way or the other. )

Sure sounds great but I am on step #4 (for about 3 years here, on this forum) and about 5 when I had my Powrchoke; plus I am still waiting for others to post there’s. I personally just get tired when people say maxium oil did not work, or amsoil did not work or redline did not work but a some cheaper oil did. 99% of the times it comes down to 2 things I have stated time and time again. #1, most important is the cost since they do not want to pay for it; but they will do 4x as many oil changes with a dino; or #2) they do not understand it. Will it work for everyone, nope, by when users switch they really have no reason why they did or when things would see benefits in.

When someone one this forum or others (gsxr, lexus, gixxer etc) post that an oil did not work, some post there oil tests and some do not. If they do, then the users can comment on it and make their own call on if they want to keep using a certain oil or switch. When someone says and oil did not work without showing something, it leaves the door wide open. In my years on this forum I tend to post numbers to support my posting if Amsoil is better and even Rotella would be better oil. But then again the $4 more in price per gallon is not even an issue for me.

I have had people tell me a Rotella oil will be good down to –20+ F (which is pushing the oil bigtime with any external heat), I have had people tell me that one Royal purple is a synthetic along with Rotella; which if they lookup some info, they would tell it does not. I have had people tell me that Mobil does not use timethylene (TME) tri-esters. In some cases (some) Amsoil will not thicken, which it will since there akg in the cheaper synthetic’s can’t handle the heat. Plus some of there oils are not shear stable. Etc etc. Most of these post can be answered pretty quick if they post a simple and cheap oil test. IF someone posts “my car ran like junk with Mobil”, post something providing something to help explain it. Taking someone comments on a global scale is wrong.

Now if people want to trust the answers (oil tests) or not, that is there call. But in today’s age, with information in books, universities, net, networking, if the user wants they can find answers pretty quick with little understand here. Again, you can tell when people post bad data in <1 minute if you know something on oils. Hence, it is pretty hard to do. Example, if someone says there wear numbers (without a bypass) were within 1% of a new sample in 10K miles, no way. If someones, posted with #’s that Amsoil ran 25K miles on there sludge car and OXD, NOX, TAN were not high on the tests, no way. If they had coolant in the oil and the level on showed 1%, no way. Etc etc.

So to close, all I am saying is that when people make comments on a global scale and have nothing to support them, it is pretty hard to get people to believe you. Now if you show something, even if your data is all wrong at least you show how you got there.

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

slowrev · Oct 13, 2005

I have seen lots of numbers on oil and oil tests on here, most of which are gibberish to me. However I have never seen any actual rusults tests . For instance 2 identical engines one with super synthetic oil and one with good dino. Comparisons of engine life and wear measurements, compression tests, etc after 100k or so would be nice to have instead of the what it sould do numbers. Then at 200k. only 20 oil changes or so for Synthetics.

In summary what are the results, not the theoretical results.
Or in plain language, how much longer will my engine last if I use expensive synthetics vs good dino oil ?

Ben

JimMorrissey · Oct 13, 2005

I'm sorry I ever asked an oil question.

I'll just stick to Rotella which is locally available going forward, change my filter every 100 hours and my machine will last longer than me.

slowrev · Oct 13, 2005

LOL,
Yep Jim oil is a semi religious subject. I go with the 15w40 dello year round in my tractor. Works for me.

gsxr1100 · Oct 13, 2005

( LOL,
Yep Jim oil is a semi religious subject. I go with the 15w40 dello year round in my tractor. Works for me.

)

I have no idea what that means ......

But the guy in VT (Jim) would be flat out nuts to use dello 15w-40 living in VT.

AMP762 · Oct 13, 2005

slowrev,that is about the most sensible post I have seen in this mess /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You know what they say,fiqures won;t lie,but liers will fiqure