delvac is great
- Thread starter Garrabo
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I tried it in my old ZX-7. I think at the time is was pretty good but the TBN was low (around 10). and there were some insolubles in the oil.
I think it also had no moly in it. Most bikes are moly "happy", so use a moly oil. Of the non-moly oils, I use Amsoil. Lots of zinc & phosphorous in there, probably a much better base oil than Golden Spectro.
Right now, Boron is a good anti-wear which GS had zero of it. From what I read, there formula is not shear stable. This means there viscosity drops like a rock after a short time.
Also for the price it was cheaper to get a better synthetic. Red line is also good.
I think it also had no moly in it. Most bikes are moly "happy", so use a moly oil. Of the non-moly oils, I use Amsoil. Lots of zinc & phosphorous in there, probably a much better base oil than Golden Spectro.
Right now, Boron is a good anti-wear which GS had zero of it. From what I read, there formula is not shear stable. This means there viscosity drops like a rock after a short time.
Also for the price it was cheaper to get a better synthetic. Red line is also good.
I just read your post on doing 10K in your F350. First off is it is a Powerstroke or gas? Yes I would test the oil. I would keep an eye on the silicone if diesel. Look at the TBN and the OXD & NOX levels since these can go down fast in a wiesel. When I had my powerstroke the viscosity changed to the next lower grade over 12K mile drains, my silicone were through the roof using a oil-glazed air filter, and when I idled a lot I never saw fuel over 1.5%. Again it diesel I would test what is up before pushing on longer with drains.
KubotaBling
Silver Member
Well company propoganda is poor policy for finding an oil.. oil analysis is a poor test bed also.. many oils show increased wear metals in certian areas some less in others there is simply no oil that is perfect.. and regardless of the hype a brand name oil vs another theres minimal difference in oil degredation or system effecency only when u push the std drains will u start find out which oil is good and which is so so..
my bed is on Rotella Devlac1300 or the Delo 400 brand. I've seen many a test with delo and all them seem to be top.. when compared to several high dollar syn. Only brand to have a non-syn. trans oil approved thru eaton too..
my bed is on Rotella Devlac1300 or the Delo 400 brand. I've seen many a test with delo and all them seem to be top.. when compared to several high dollar syn. Only brand to have a non-syn. trans oil approved thru eaton too..
I have to agree with most but comparing un-used oil results are the best way to find out how an oil performs should perform if the engine is running up to par.
Yes, you are correct in saying "some show more wear certian areas some less in others there is simply no oil that is perfect". I personally never stated there is any perfect oil, however if you do a simple compare & contrast and some simple homework, you can select a better oil using these methods. Are they perfect, nope but if gets you are better %choice on selecting an oil that is good for your application.
Delo
Aluminum 1ppm
Barium 0ppm
Boron 0ppm
Calcium 3343 ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Copper 0ppm
Flashpoint-450F
Iron 1ppm
Lead 0ppm
Magnesium 23ppm
Molybdenum 0ppm
Nickle 0ppm
Phophorous 1116ppm
Potassium 0ppm
Silicon 5ppm
Silver 0ppm
Sodium 1ppm
Tbn 10.63
Tin 0ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Vanadium 0ppm
VIS@100C 15.95cSt
Vis@210F-80.5
Zinc 1329ppm
Delvac
Aluminum 1ppm
Barium 0ppm
Boron 154ppm
Calcium 2107ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Copper 0ppm
Flashpoint 425F
Insolubles 0.0
Iron 2ppm
Lead 0ppm
Magnesium 421ppm
Manganese 0ppm
Molybdenum 0ppm
Nickel 0ppm
Phosphorus 1090ppm
Potassium 0ppm
Silicon 6ppm
Silver 0ppm
Sodium 1ppm
SUS VISCOSITYat210F 78.6
Tin 0ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Zinc 1216 ppm
Delo has a god base stock.
Delvac has a better additive package.
Are they good oils, sure but again I would need to look at all points that mean something to me. P, Ca and moly (0) are low. Also see some used reports to see, for example, how there TBN holds up, does the viscosity drop like a rock, how does the additive package hold up throughout its life?
Yes, you are correct in saying "some show more wear certian areas some less in others there is simply no oil that is perfect". I personally never stated there is any perfect oil, however if you do a simple compare & contrast and some simple homework, you can select a better oil using these methods. Are they perfect, nope but if gets you are better %choice on selecting an oil that is good for your application.
Delo
Aluminum 1ppm
Barium 0ppm
Boron 0ppm
Calcium 3343 ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Copper 0ppm
Flashpoint-450F
Iron 1ppm
Lead 0ppm
Magnesium 23ppm
Molybdenum 0ppm
Nickle 0ppm
Phophorous 1116ppm
Potassium 0ppm
Silicon 5ppm
Silver 0ppm
Sodium 1ppm
Tbn 10.63
Tin 0ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Vanadium 0ppm
VIS@100C 15.95cSt
Vis@210F-80.5
Zinc 1329ppm
Delvac
Aluminum 1ppm
Barium 0ppm
Boron 154ppm
Calcium 2107ppm
Chromium 0ppm
Copper 0ppm
Flashpoint 425F
Insolubles 0.0
Iron 2ppm
Lead 0ppm
Magnesium 421ppm
Manganese 0ppm
Molybdenum 0ppm
Nickel 0ppm
Phosphorus 1090ppm
Potassium 0ppm
Silicon 6ppm
Silver 0ppm
Sodium 1ppm
SUS VISCOSITYat210F 78.6
Tin 0ppm
Titanium 0ppm
Zinc 1216 ppm
Delo has a god base stock.
Delvac has a better additive package.
Are they good oils, sure but again I would need to look at all points that mean something to me. P, Ca and moly (0) are low. Also see some used reports to see, for example, how there TBN holds up, does the viscosity drop like a rock, how does the additive package hold up throughout its life?
The onwer of my local ford place and the service dept manager knew I was doing extended drains. I was going from 10 to 13K (over 2x normal) mile drains and had the tests to showed I was well, better then Ford's oil.
They both said we usually tell people to go by the manual since 99% of people do not test oil. However, based on results the oil looks fine. All the engine problems I ever had (not oil related) they never once said anything about oil changes our duration.
The moral of the story is they always say stick to the manual but if you test and use a good oil you CAN go longer (most oils can) without causing any increased to wearing elements etc. It is all on the additive package and if the engine is running correctly. I personally have been doing extended oil changes since 1994 and never had a problem with any car, tractor or motorcycle.
They both said we usually tell people to go by the manual since 99% of people do not test oil. However, based on results the oil looks fine. All the engine problems I ever had (not oil related) they never once said anything about oil changes our duration.
The moral of the story is they always say stick to the manual but if you test and use a good oil you CAN go longer (most oils can) without causing any increased to wearing elements etc. It is all on the additive package and if the engine is running correctly. I personally have been doing extended oil changes since 1994 and never had a problem with any car, tractor or motorcycle.