DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this??

   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #62  
I have to agree with most - for God's sake just push the dam thing over and be done with it.

However - now a word of caution. Mice, rats & Hantavirus. HPS - hantavirus pulmonary syndrome. Worked in a county health dept and saw two cases in one year. Not a pretty thing - rather rare - not easily diagnosed - can be terminal.

Contact your local Health Dept and get their recommendation for appropriate protective breathing masks. This is NO joke.

Wise words. That stuff is serious business.


Since it's transmitted by dust, you can reduce the spread of it by spraying the shed down with soapy water, inside and out. A garden sprayer with dish soap will do the trick. Better yet, a garden hose end sprayer, and keep it soapy. Soak it!

You still should use breathing protection, but anything you can do to reduce the spread of the dust is a good thing.

Then push it over with the bucket and get on with life!
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #63  
I am assuming that since the O/P says there is rot in the floor and joists, that it really isn't safe to walk into, or at least walk into and start taking panels off, in fear of the shed coming down on his head.
I like the idea of the cables, but wanted to add one small thing.
Take a look at the design of the shed, and loop the end of the cable around a whole wall in a manner that it will either pull the whole shed down at one time or will cause a single 2x4 wall stud to break, and tear towards the next one in a row. (basically a large loop in-compassing a whole wall). So I guess you will need to drill a hole at the end of a wall and loop a cable around the wall and back to the opening at the far end. Use good connectors to hold the cable loop. Now, start on the side that you want the shed to fall towards, and route the cable away from you, around the back corner and then over to the tree that you are using as a anchor. Basically if the 2x4's start ripping out, it will happen at the corner nearest your tree, but if the wall stands up to the tearing effect of the cable, the the cable being run around the back side of the shed will help to pull it over. If you start pulling and the shed just twists or spins then it was a lot stronger than you thought, and at which point, unhook the cable from the tractor and run it through the loop where it went outside the wall. That will make a choker out of it and when you pull it should collapse the walls inward. However with the collapse method you won't be able to control the direction of fall.
David from jax
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this??
  • Thread Starter
#64  
I am assuming that since the O/P says there is rot in the floor and joists, that it really isn't safe to walk into, or at least walk into and start taking panels off, in fear of the shed coming down on his head.
I like the idea of the cables, but wanted to add one small thing.
Take a look at the design of the shed, and loop the end of the cable around a whole wall in a manner that it will either pull the whole shed down at one time or will cause a single 2x4 wall stud to break, and tear towards the next one in a row. (basically a large loop in-compassing a whole wall). So I guess you will need to drill a hole at the end of a wall and loop a cable around the wall and back to the opening at the far end. Use good connectors to hold the cable loop. Now, start on the side that you want the shed to fall towards, and route the cable away from you, around the back corner and then over to the tree that you are using as a anchor. Basically if the 2x4's start ripping out, it will happen at the corner nearest your tree, but if the wall stands up to the tearing effect of the cable, the the cable being run around the back side of the shed will help to pull it over. If you start pulling and the shed just twists or spins then it was a lot stronger than you thought, and at which point, unhook the cable from the tractor and run it through the loop where it went outside the wall. That will make a choker out of it and when you pull it should collapse the walls inward. However with the collapse method you won't be able to control the direction of fall.
David from jax
I like this plan. All the advice I've gotten confirms the cable idea. I don't think ramming my loader into it is very wise, or trying to lift a corner when it could collapse in any direction.

This is going to happen October 21st, for all those out there waiting for the video!!
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #65  
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this??
  • Thread Starter
#66  
How are you going to load the dumpster? Titan has their economy forks on a labor day sale for $251 again (with free shipping!). If you have SSQA mounts that would be better than being Fred Flintstone with the clean up.

Titan 46" Pallet Fork Attachment Skid Steer Quick tach Mount 26�� lb Capacity

or their clamp on pallet or debris forks , starting at $89 (also with free shipping)

Clamp on Pallet forks - Pallet Forks - Skid Steer Attachments
Dang, that's a pretty good deal. I have to give Titan a call and see if they have something that fits my Yanmar. No ssqa, unfortunately.
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #67  
If nothing else, the clamp ons get you through the day
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #68  
If size allows, just call a rollback. Have him load it up and haul it to the dump. Probably do it for less than $250 and no cleanup.
 
   / DEMOLITION -- Am I CRAZY to do this?? #70  
If nothing else, the clamp ons get you through the day
With a little ingenuity the clamp ons will suffice for a LOT of stuff. Get a stabilizer (buy or BYO) and you can ram into a pile of stuff, lift it, roll back, throw a chain over it and then you got a decent substitute for a grapple.

Here's my B7610 carrying bamboo.
Now you see it:
attachment.php


Now you don't:

attachment.php


That's my $125 solution for a short term $1,000 grapple need.
 

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