Today I was cleaning with my BX25D and a log hit the hood. Now I have a dented hood and cracked headlight. I am debating to live with the dent. Claim it on kabobta insurance or just pay for repairs out of my pocket. What would you do?
Dented Hood
- Thread starter swatter
- Start date
- Views: 13541
WaxMan
Veteran Member
Thats a shame, you're going to have to repair or replace it If you want to tractor to remain in good shape, some people will say its just a tractor. I guess if you where one of those you would not even post about it.
Do you have a loan on it from Kubota and they made you buy the insurance? If so I would put it on the insurance. That is what your paying for.It's still going to cost you the 250.00 deductible.
Call Kubota get a price on a new hood and light, I believe it comes painted. Then you will know which way to go. See how close it is to the deductible.
I think the amount of insurance you pay is in the contract and they can't raise the rate without changing the contract. Unlike homeowners insurance they will raise your rate or cancel your insurance if too many claims.
Kubota wants to make sure the tractor "they own" remands in good shape.
But then again I have no idea what I'm talking about.
You should post the question on this thread. I'm sure they will have all the answers for you.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...95-protect-your-equipment-ktac-insurance.html
Do you have a loan on it from Kubota and they made you buy the insurance? If so I would put it on the insurance. That is what your paying for.It's still going to cost you the 250.00 deductible.
Call Kubota get a price on a new hood and light, I believe it comes painted. Then you will know which way to go. See how close it is to the deductible.
I think the amount of insurance you pay is in the contract and they can't raise the rate without changing the contract. Unlike homeowners insurance they will raise your rate or cancel your insurance if too many claims.
Kubota wants to make sure the tractor "they own" remands in good shape.
But then again I have no idea what I'm talking about.
You should post the question on this thread. I'm sure they will have all the answers for you.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...95-protect-your-equipment-ktac-insurance.html
George2615
Super Member
I dented the hood on one of my previous tractors. I took the hood off, turned it over, set it on plywood and hammered it back out as best I could with a rubber mallet and small ball pien hammer. Then skim coated it with body filler. Sanded, primed, and repainted. Good as new. I was lucky and didn't have to replace a headlight.
If you have ever done body work it's not too hard to repair. If not, you can live with it or use your insurance.
If you have ever done body work it's not too hard to repair. If not, you can live with it or use your insurance.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
wood block and a dolley / body hammers.. work it out without stretching the metal. a lil filler, some sanding, some glazing putty, some more sanding.. and then keep sanding till you are at 2000. primer it. resand 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000
then shoot the hood. should take a pint.
that's a sunday project.
then shoot the hood. should take a pint.
that's a sunday project.
I am not the guy who can paint and knock out the dent. I talked with my wife about getting a new hood and head light. She told me she was sorry that it happened. She said just leave the dent it gives the tractor character. I guess I will leave it for now.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Not sure where you learned that, but it's not the way it is normally done.
For dry hand sanding, body filler needs nothing finer than 220 grit before primer. Most technicians will never go finer than 150 grit sand paper on Bondo. And, primer needs nothing finer than 500 grit before paint. Many guys stop at 400 grit. Using anything finer than those for dry sanding, is unnecessary.
For wet sanding of primer, prior to paint, use 600 grit.
1000, 2000 grit sand papers are only used in body shops, for wet sanding clear coats, prior to buffing. (At least the ones who haven't figured out how to put the paint on nice enough to avoid all that).
If you need to use paper as fine as you suggested to do a good job, something is wrong.
We don't sand primer with 220, then sand it again with 360, then sand again with 400, then sand again with 600, and finer, then paint. If you are doing that, you are doing a lot of extra work. And that may be where you are going wrong.
The correct way for primer would be, say you need/want to sand it with 220 grit. Sand with 220. And, after you finish, reprime it. If you put on a nice smooth coat or two, you will only need to sand that with 400, or 500 grit dry, or 600 wet, and you can go right to paint.
We do it this way because, you can never be sure you removed every single 220 scratch no matter what you do. And since you can't paint over 220 scratches, you always reprime it, to fill them.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i learned it at a body shop that did mostly corvettes, but did others too.. was there about 12 years. ( circa mid 70's early 80's )
You do what you want. my body work looks great under paint!
Our boss always told us the easiest way to find a flaw in body work was to paint it.
You do what you want. my body work looks great under paint!
Our boss always told us the easiest way to find a flaw in body work was to paint it.
WaxMan
Veteran Member
Sound guy is right , for a corvette with lacquer and other cars from that time period that is the way it was done, Nothing wrong with doing that. That is how it was done. Nowadays body shops use enamel base coat and clear coat. It fills more and you don't have to take it down as much. That is just the way it is.
Thing is if you just leave the dent and say oh well it's a tractor . Next you back into something and bend a fender or scrape the side. Oh well its a tractor.
Before you know it you got a piece of **** for a tractor, forget getting a good price for it when you want to trade it in for the New BX28D or BX30D
Get the price of the hood and light, either fix it or pay the 250 and get it fixed, you may like the New BX30D in 2018 Forget the bondo sandpaper and paint.
Unbolt the dented hood and bolt on the new one done, still factory.
Sell the dented one on ebay for 100 bucks
