normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
It's kind of apparent that your problem was caused by improper shimming.
Diagnosing 4WD problems YM240D
- Thread starter woolyAcres
- Start date
- Views: 10903
clemsonfor
Super Member
the shims you took out are fine but there may be more or less needed due to maybe differences in bearing , If you changed that, and or just the wear and tear on the gears in the last 30+ years.
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
@normde2001- The bearings I took out are clearly Japanese. Making me think that they were original. I've got no reason to think otherwise. Are you suggesting it could have been improperly shimmed from the factory? I really don't know, but I have to confess to overloading this machine. You might remember the enormous bucket on this tractor. My un-educated guess is that I caused some damage by overloading the FEL and jamming something by driving over a bump with a too full bucket. This didn't actually happen when I had a load in the bucket, but I have no doubt I could have caused something like this just prior to it actually locking up...
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
Regardless of how it was shimmed before, you need to do it correctly on re-assembly according to the Yanmar manual, or other specs. Anyone could have been into it before.
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
Well, it's back together, following the manual I have. Thanks to everyone for the input and support. Some of the trouble, or non-smooth, issues I was having were because I didn't have the two sets of needle bearings installed when I was checking things. I didn't realize how much of a difference they would make but the spindle shaft must not have been running true down the center of the top and bottom gear. Once I installed those, things roll very nice. There is backlash but my manual didn't discuss how to test/measure it for the spindle gears, only for the front differential so I did what I could there. I guess time will tell if my repair is sound but there's no grinding, whining, or other noises, only smooth rolling (when I tested it with the front wheels off the ground). I've put a few hours on it today and things seem fine both in 2WD and 4WD. No heavy loads in the bucket yet but that's on its way, though I'm going to work hard to keep the loads down from what I had been putting in the front. The bucket is simply too large and too easy to overfill.
I'm sure if it breaks down again you'll hear me moan about it. Again, thanks for all the help.
I'm sure if it breaks down again you'll hear me moan about it. Again, thanks for all the help.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Sounds like it's a erect repair, should last forever.
So what was the final list of replacement parts again?
So what was the final list of replacement parts again?
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
@clemsonfor- Total bill is about $75 (mostly parts and shipping from Hoye). I ended up replacing (referring to the Hoye parts page), 28 (dust cap) , 59 (bearing), 43 (bearing), 58 (bearing), 47 (needle bearing), and an o-ring. I had to use some gasket maker ($6 from auto parts place) because Hoye didn't have the gasket that fit between the front shaft housing and the front differential.
Not all the bearings were bad (the needle bearings seemed okay, as was 43) but I figured updating them all would be wise.
Not all the bearings were bad (the needle bearings seemed okay, as was 43) but I figured updating them all would be wise.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Yep that makes the most sense. You went to all this effort to tear it down there is no reason not to replace a $10 or $20 bearing while you have it all apart. I would have done the same.
