Sunthetic isn't thinner. Synthetic doesn't get as thick as the same viscosity mineral oil at sub zero temperatures.
understood, thanks. Just admitting to past ignorance.
It is interesting to compare, just for discussion, a straight 40wt that I used on my boat's Detroits for many years vs. today's synthetic 10/40 or whatever. One pours like water, the other like honey.
But both work obviously.
One kind of oil for the cars, one for the old diesel, one for the new diesel, one for the old Gravely, one for the JD lawn tractor and most others.
it does get confusing.
I use a dymo labeler each time I change oil, helps me remember what goes in what and of course, how long ago.
I pretty much stick with Rotella T where I can. Used to use Mobil 1 but now save two bucks a quart with Pennzoil or some others.
I have to believe a less expensive synthetic will run "just fine' in my powerwasher, albeit with a beautiful GX390 Honda powering it.
I find the key is to change the oil when it starts to turn darker, or at least once a year, or 50 hours for the old stuff, whichever is first.
I can put oil in my 1986 tractor, with the Mitsu three cylinder in it, and it will turn black almost immediately. The oil in my Kubota is only darkening slightly. Why? Lots of junk sitting in the pan of the Mitsu? or is it the engine design that allows blowby or soot from somewhere to meet the oil?
I've changed the oil in the older tractor a half dozen times, and it's always the same. Almost immediately black. makes oil checking easy, but I always wonder if I'm slowly cleaning things out, like the sludge on the bottom of all those Toyota engines.
