Dipper Stick snapped in half

[RickB]

The most important welds in the repair are the ones to go on the bottom of the dipper. These welds would have to be done out of position if the repair is to be done with the stick in place. It is more than worth your time to remove the boom so this repair can be done accurately and with the best chance of success. The first step to get the stick parts back in place after removing from the machine is to cut the remaining top section that is holding it together now. The realignment can then be done without fighting twisted, broken metal.

 

[Short Game]

I have to agree that if it were me doing the welding, I'd want to have gravity on my side.

 

[RickB]

Doesn't really matter what experience level the guy doing the welding has. He will do better work 'in position' than out. And this is a job to be done once.

 

[mrmikey]

That's not too bad at all, I've seen and repaired worse.
As was said, leave it on the machine and use the hydraulics to pull it together, you might have to burn a few bits out of the way to get it to go back.
After it's welded, reinforce it with doublers making sure not to weld across the boom as it'll be a place to start cracking. You could tie your doubles into the factory ones.
If you have access to a brake get your doublers bent into a channell shape that'll wrap around the bottom and sides of the boom.....Mike

 

[ultrarunner]

Eddie... I admire you and your father.

Being able to work together is what family is all about... it is a great thing you are doing.

I know too many seasoned citizens that have lost all meaning in life... kids live far away, nothing meaningful to do and no accomplishments to bring that feeling back.

Last spring, I planted 21 Redwood trees down in the ravine by the creek... someday, hope to have a nice little grove... Mom comes just about everyday with a small pail and waters them with water drawn from the creek... it gets her and her 11 year old Australian Shepard something to do and she is very conscientious and happy to do it.

We made lots of similar repairs at the machine shop... nothing that can't be repaired and even made stronger.

Taking it apart will allow the best fix...

Repair using the quick and dirty method will have you back working again in a few hours but the repair is almost sure to look crude...

 

[LD1]

I still vote to fix in place.

A come-a-long or the hydraulics of the hoe should have no trouble at all bending it back into place even cold.

If it were mine, I be back digging in just a few hours. Weld the crack solid, and fish plates out of the scrap pile on atleast the 3 sides that are torn.

But either way you go, our advice doesnt mean squat. Talk to whoever is going to do the repair. You have to make him happy. If he is comfortable fixing in place and will stand behind his work, do that. If he advises you take it appart, do that. What we think means nothing.

 

[EddieWalker]

But either way you go, our advice doesnt mean squat. Talk to whoever is going to do the repair. You have to make him happy. If he is comfortable fixing in place and will stand behind his work, do that. If he advises you take it appart, do that. What we think means nothing.

This is what I'm thinking. Listen to the expert and what he is comfortable with. I sent out a request on facebook and have several names to call. I have a great shop, and wont do anything until I talk to them and see what they say. I'm not in a rush, and don't mind waiting a few days before deciding on anything, or longer. I'm out of my comfort zone, which means I need to become comfortable with the repair, and how it will be done. For me, that takes time to educate myself and get an understanding of what my options are.

Thank you everyone for your advice. I REALLY appreciate it!!!!

Eddie

 

[sandman2234]

Since you have a "comfort zone shop" and trust their work, why look for another? Figure out how to get it to them, even if you have to call a rollback to pick it up and take it to them. (unless they don't want the work).
That little piece of metal left holding it together is already stressed, so don't put too much faith in it. Cut it out and match the pieces in line, prep the joints and start making bacon frying noises.
David from jax

(Or take it to somebody's shop, lol)

 

[JB4310]

I still vote to fix in place.

A come-a-long or the hydraulics of the hoe should have no trouble at all bending it back into place even cold.

Yup, except I don't think you even need the come-a-long.

You've got a self contained, rolling frame machine with several powerful hydraulic cylinders capable of a whole range of motions to work with.
It would be a whole different storey if it were in 2 pcs.

You would need some strategically placed chains, and may or may not need a solid anchor, like a big tree
Doesn't matter what it looks like or even if it's not perfectly aligned IMO.
It's an older, probably somewhat loose hoe, no offense Eddie.

JB

 

[SSdoxie]

Taking the arm off and getting to weld shop should not be a big problem. Just pull all the pins and let it fall clear the use your bucket to load it in truck or tariler. Hard part would be getting it remounted if you don't have a lift hoist. Just remove the bucket, chain dipper arm to the boom and take to the weld shop. Let them decide whether to remove or repair with it on. If they do remove they will remount it for you.

 

[LD1]

Yup, except I don't think you even need the come-a-long.

You've got a self contained, rolling frame machine with several powerful hydraulic cylinders capable of a whole range of motions to work with.
It would be a whole different storey if it were in 2 pcs.

You would need some strategically placed chains, and may or may not need a solid anchor, like a big tree
Doesn't matter what it looks like or even if it's not perfectly aligned IMO.
It's an older, probably somewhat loose hoe, no offense Eddie.

JB

The only reason I mentioned the come-a-long is for a more controlled approach. Theres no doubt in my mind that the hoe's own hydraulics are more than capable of doing the job:thumbsup:

 

[Chilly807]

Like mrmikey said, don't weld straight across the boom, it'll create a stress point and quite likely break there again. The existing gussets are moon-shaped for that reason, any line that goes directly across the boom is bad news. You'll have to get creative with the shape of the reinforcing plates to avoid that.

Discuss that with the welding shop before they start. There's a good chance they already know it, but it won't hurt to talk it over first.

Good luck!

Sean

 

[Don87]

Eddie said he was close enough to drive it to the shop. Couldn't he just chain it it good, so it doesn't break completely off, and just drive it on over?

I mean, like put it it transport position, and chain/strap it.

 

[Short Game]

This has shocked me and left me sick to my stomache. I'm physicaly ill over it, and not wanting to deal with it.

I just hope what we've told you has this part behind you. You're going to have it back in action before long.

 

[easygo]

.... any line that goes directly across the boom is bad news. You'll have to get creative with the shape of the reinforcing plates to avoid that.

Discuss that with the welding shop before they start. There's a good chance they already know it, but it won't hurt to talk it over first.

Good luck!

You are absolutely right. I have seen a BIG Cat excavator boom that suffered a similar failure and was repaired with shaped plates that left no straight line across. However. I would not leave a job like this at a shop where I have to tell them that.
Best of luck with the repair Eddie!!! It will be good as new and your dad will be able to pound away for another 2000 hours at least.

If you can drive it to the near by shop why not just stabilize it the way it is, even if you have to tack some plate to it. The shop can cut it off and line it up properly.

 

[whodat526]

Here are the pictures.

I'm nervous about the boom. I've looked for cracks, and haven't seen any, but realize that doesn't mean anything. Once I get the dipper stick off, I'll clean up the boom and look a lot closer.

My dad will dig all day long, day after day, and get a ton accomplished. Unfortunately, he doesn't realize that droping the bucket down onto the ground and then digging by curling the bucket and lifting the backhoe's rear tires off of the ground will eventually cause some damage. I knew that something was going to happen, but honestly thought it was going to be excessive wear of the pins.

This has shocked me and left me sick to my stomache. I'm physicaly ill over it, and not wanting to deal with it. Of course, that's just what I will do until I get it apart and loaded into the back of my truck.

Welding and adding plates to it seems like the best option. If I can find a used one, there's no telling what shape it's in, or what it will cost to get it here.

My plan is to get the bucket off, then build a cradle out of wood to hold it up while taking out the main pin off of the boom. It's going to be one of those days of doing one thing at a time, and then on to the next until it's done. I'll take some pictures and update as I can.

Eddie

call alexander tractor salvage in winsbro they should have a used one they only deal in ford/nh equipment i wouldn't want to weld it

 

[jinman]

Eddie, I might have an inexpensive solution for you. There's a rental yard in Decatur that has two dippers off a LB75 and LB95. He says they are both the same. They both have very minor dents and he got them replaced with insurance. The LB95 dipper looks new. He's asking $450 each, but I was thinking of offering him $750 for both. I didn't do it yet because I had no place to store them until I get my shop built. I have no idea if they will fit your tractor, but I've put a couple of photos of my LB75B's dipper below. If you look at the close-up, you can see where mine has been welded once. I wanted one of the dippers for a backup, but if you want one, I'd split whatever the guy wants for the pair with you. You just need to know if it will fit your tractor. From the photos, your dipper sure looks similar to mine.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Eddie, I like Jim's idea if they are a close enough fit. 2nd, around here, there are plenty of welders who have their own truck rigs. Now that its cooler, working out in the open is not a big problem. I don't think its really that big a deal. If you have some scraps and a torch, you might can help the welder cut and fit some side plates and a bottom plate to shore up the crack welds.
Could save a bunch of time and extra work to fix it in place.

 

[jinman]

Here's the craigslist ad for the New Holland dippers.

 

[BXpanded]

Quite a few years ago, my father owned a business, Buckets and Booms, Inc., that specialized in building and repairing large buckets, crane booms, etc. That would have been an easy fix. They would have removed the bucket, cut the remaining metal, and pulled the dipper stick. It could be fixed in the field but the realignment would be easy on a concrete floor. Weld it up, fish plate it, paint it and re-install.
If I remember correctly, Eddie has another piece of equipment he could use to lift the dipperstick. The removal and re-install is a pretty straightforward do-it-yourself project.
Any competent welder can weld the pieces back together and reinforce the area. If he's not familiar with equipment booms, it might be wise to help him with the shape of the reinforcing plates so the welds don't go straight across the stick. Copy the shape of the existing plate.
Certainly no reason to be terribly upset. Things break sometimes... I wish my Dad could break something of mine right now. I miss him a lot even after 15 years.