Dirt/Gravel Driveway Major Maintenance

[john_bud]

I have always been led into things by doing the MATH and finding that if I don't mind unskilled labor (mine), a learning curve, and some risk that I can buy a tool, tool set, or equipment and do many jobs for about the same or less (working cheap or free) than hiring a pro. The trick is knowing when to NOT DIY. Examples of when not to DIY abound: brain surgery, bypass, jobs requiring large expensive machines that require lots of experience to get acceptable results, patently unsafe (at least for armatures) type operations.

I think the road building project is one of those that falls into the DIY realm if you don't mind the hard work, low pay, some monetary risk, and a longer and less definite schedule. So long as you are buying equipment you can use for other tasks when finished or items that will definitely resell (with low probability of expensive repairs while you have them [that pesky risk thing again]) then it looks like you are in for a character building experience.

Faced with the cost of R&R of cam and lifters in a HiPo Ford Mustang engine in a Sunbeam Tiger roadster, I bought a Craftsman socket set and did it myself. In fact I did it several times as the use of the car alternated between wife commuting in traffic (hydraulic lifters and mild cam) to my driving it (solid lifters and racing cam, 165MPH top end.)

I still have (most) of the socket set purchased in about 1968-9 and I can R&R a cam and lifters like a NASCAR pit stop!

Go for it dude, learn and enjoy!!!!

Pat

We seem to think alike!

I have many tools that were bought for less than the price of having a "pro" do the job.

My first set of tools was a Harbor Freight Salvage (the old name for the company) combo of 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. Later bought a torque wrench. That upped the total to just under $50. It was enough to rebuild a 302 ford. Added in a set of stones and I ported the heads. (Well, took out the casting flash, tear drop'ed the guide studs and eliminated the thermactor air bump.) That set later rebuilt a 351w, 351m, 351c, 400m, 289, 2300, 427 side oiler, 350 chev, 390, 391, more 302's and even tractor engines. I actually make a point to use at least 1 socket, ratchet, or extension from that set on every engine. Wierd, but...

jb

 

[patrick_g]

JB, If You think that you may think like me then you may need professional help or at least some sort of 12 step program!

You can push the DIY thing where your labor plus the tool(s) and equipment adds up to less than hiring the job done by such a margin that you can sell it to yourself and the CEO (AKA she who must be obeyed, even if you have to guide her thoughts prior to her issuing edicts and permissions.)

I have a significant amount of finish carpentry and or cabinet work left to do in our new house. We have a second smaller kitchen in the basement to support backyard cookouts that needs all the cabinets plus various cabinets, shelves, some built in furniture and on and on and I GET to do it.

A couple weeks back my thumb challenged the table saw blade while I was struggling with sheet goods on my rather small table saw where the rip fence only opens up to 12 inches. Yesterday I came home with a 660 lb crate in the truck bed. I now have a saw with table and extensions that will accommodate a 4x8 sheet (52 inch) but is designed to not give you a bad cut. (Google on Saw Stop) I nearly embarrassed myself spending so much for a saw but... THE NUMBERS WORK, I can pay for it with DIY labor offsetting pro charges and if it works as advertised (no failures on any of their product yet) you can't cut yourself dangerously.

Pat

 

[nworcest]

I maintain a 500 gravel driveway, and a 900 ft power line easement road. Having lived my formative years in Northern New England, on gravel roads I appreciate it when roads are in good shape. The ruts after thaw/mud season typically required replacement of several cavities.

A rock rake keeps them dressed and does light repair, and the box blade will do major. I still have new crusher-run or topping gravel in every few years. One side of the driveway is 40' ravine, so I loses a little every year.

Rural Home Technology: Road & Driveway Maintenance: A Ditch In Time (Russ lives a couple of towns north of my ancestral [and eventual retirement] stomping grounds)
and
www.maine.gov/dep/blwq/docwatershed/camproad.pdf

are both very good references.

 

[john_bud]

you may need professional help or at least some sort of 12 step program!


Pat

With out a doubt!

jb

 

[erda]

Thanks for the link CDN FB

 

[rjkobbeman]

Look at a Land Pride Grading Scraper. It is a box blade without the back. It is the most awesome thing you will ever use with regards to grooming a long gravel and/or dirt drive. It is MEANT for drive grooming. The blades are angled front to rear to draw excess material to the center of the road for a crown. Get one at least half as wide as your drive (unless your drive is REAL wide). I have the 8' (or is it 9'?) one and use it several times a year. Up, down and maybe up, down again and DONE.