Disc Harrow Alterations

[F250DSLPWR]

You can buy an acid etching primer in spray can form. The acid etch primer etches itself into the metal to form a really good bond and base for your top coat. I buy it at Home Depot. I am not sure how the acid etch primer would react with the rust stuff you are using? You can buy an inexpensive spray gun from Harbor Frieght ($14) and some really good acrylic enamel (automotive paint) that will put a high quality finish on your project and last for years. If you go with Polyurethane paint it is the top of the line finish, however you need to use a high quality respirator rated for acrylic enamel and or urethane paints (do your research to protect your health). I personally don't like the Valspar spray can paint. I just have not had good luck with Valspar. It faded badly on one of my projects and and I also had problems with it being too hard and chipping / cracking when using it on equipment.
I have a hitch welded on the back of my disc, to pull the drag harrow, or cultipacker or fertilizer / seed spreader.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would use the Deere paint in my locale as the small town I live in doesn't have a good paint store and choices are limited. When considering spray cans I would recommend Rustoleum "Painters Touch" line as these seem to have the best spray pattern of all the various brands I have used.

Thinkiing further about painting a disc it is probably easier and faster to buy a box of spray cans and geturdone. Not many flat areas to benefit from using a brush but there sure are a lot of cracks and crevices.

 

[deere5105]

Here is picture of frame ready for rust treatment. This part is pretty flat and might could be brushed. Sounds like best solution is to pick up spray paint at JD dealer after prepping and go with that. Sounds like worst case scenario is it might take a few more cans to spray it.

 

[jenkinsph]

Can you take a close up pic? Kind of hard to tell anything from this distance.

 

[deere5105]

Here is a closer picture. Also notice fracture found in frame. This is bottom of frame. Repair was made to top of frame. I do not believe this affects the structural integrity of the frame. Thought about taping over or sealing up and just painting over.

 

[jenkinsph]

Just me but I would run a grinder with a large cup brush over the entire thing before using the rust preventer. This will help with the finished appearance and the better the paint job the less rusting you will have long term.

Not sure where the fracture is you are talking about but now is the time to fix any problems. Might need to fishplate it.

 

[deere5105]

Couple more questions:
1) Any major issues blending brush on paint and spray paint if both JD brand paint? Any issues using a small roller versus brush? With this thing taken apart like it is I believe I may could roll most of it quicker and have a better finish.

2) Contemplating changes to the hitch. I really would like to get back to a Cat 1 pin for this to be able to use on multiple tractors. Have found a Cat 2 to Cat 1 pin. Has the same 1 1/8" threaded end with the 7/8" pin. Thinking of going this route to be able to best utilize the 1 1/8" hole already in the hitch. If pins start bending could easily swap back to a Cat 2 standard pin. Have been looking at the Pat's Easy Change too. Could go with the Cat 2 to Cat 1 on this and it would fit all of my current implements. If necessary, could remove the P.E.C. and still have Cat 2 capability.

3) With the hitch the way it is now, there was some give/play in it. I am considering modifying it to match the setup on the PICO disc we have. It uses separate attachment points for the pins and the lower 3 PT "A Frame" points. This seems to me that it would allow for tightening up better since with the old set up the pin serves to secure the lower 3 PT "A Frame" arms however you can't get them tight due to the design. Also plan to go back with two pieces of maybe 1/2" plate to secure the top of the 3 PT to the center of the disc where the attachments are made. Old set up had some type of drill stem/bracket system.

4) Decided to go ahead and add some 1/4" plate over an old fracture area just to help clean it up. Hope to get that and the new 4" square tubing gang hangers in soon so I can complete the paint process and start putting back together.

 

[jenkinsph]

1) On the paint it is your call how you get a smooth even coat on the steel. Just make sure you work small enough areas at a time to overspray the whole piece before it starts to dry. You want just enough paint it can smooth out.


2) On the hitch if I recall right it is an 8 ft wide disc, and I am thinking you will need the Cat 2 pins to deal with the weight. You can try the cat 1 pins and see if these hold up but I have my doubts.

3) Not following you on this.

4) I would alot rather fix this frame issue now than have to take it apart again later.


Also try to wire brush it as I mentioned in above post see alot of paint tells me it hasn't been brushed enough.

 

[deere5105]

1) This will be my second painting project of this size. Have put a lot more effort and thought into this one as I want the end product to be better than the last. With the majority of the flat surface areas being 4" wide, it crossed my mind about trying maybe a 2" roller. Thought this might give a better finish than dealing with a brush.

2) It is a 8'/9' disc. I believe factory set up is 9'. The disc in the two pictures to the right above are of an 8' PICO brand disc we have. It has Cat 1 pins and our other tractors are all set up for Cat 1. Thought I would give it a try to see how it turns out. Worst case scenario is I am out a couple pins.

3) Notice that the lift pins on the "project disc" in the pictures on the left go through two pieces of steel with the bottom of the "legs" that run up to where the top link attaches simply drilled and the pin goes through them. The PICO disc on the right makes separate attachments to the metal for these two points. You can actually tighten the nut and hold the two pieces of metal together. With the "project disc" I could grab where the top link attaches and move it back and forth. On the PICO disc this is a rigid attachment. There is no play or movement.

4) Good advice on the repair. I was considering leaving as is, but decided against it.

I have went over the entire frame with angle and cup brush. Are you recommending that the metal be sanded until it is back to shiny metal? The painted areas you see have been over. Thinking it needs to be continued until no signs of any paint? Might be easier to use grinding wheel for that?

 

[jenkinsph]

Just me but I use a good quality china bristle brush for enamel paints and would probably go with a 2 1/2" angled sash brush. Buy a good brush if you wan't good results. Put on a light coat first let it get tacky and then spray a heavier coat on top. About the wire brush I use a rather large heavy and expensive cup brush on my 9" Bosch grinder, the smoother it is the better the finish will look. I wouldn't go overboard but a high solids primer is used to fill in the tiny pits and divits in the steel surface and is then wet sanded to a smooth finish. For a farm implement I would use a good primer to match the top coat sand it lightly and paint it. I would only use the grinding wheel where I had a thick layer of crap to remove, because the grinder swirls will show through the paint. Big jobs I will carry to a sandblaster, didn't think you would bother with that on this project.

If you are new to painting remember you can add more but if you put to much on it will run and drip. Best results are achieved with a light coat, let it dry for a few days, sand or go over it with steel wool #00 then paint with a second coat.

If this is an 8 or 9' disc I would go with cat 2 pins imo. The clevis style hitch may work for the cat 1 pins, if this is beneficial to you then try it and see.