Disc harrows

/ Disc harrows #31  
if you only want to plant grass and not have to break up any soil. A drill is a very good option for just plowing the seed in the ground.
It would take more HP than you currently have unless you know someone that will let you borrow a larger tractor.
Fill the drill with seed and it will plow it in the ground as it is pulled.

We have several places that rent these drills for about $50.00 a day


COOL FARM TOOLS EXPLAINED...NO-TILL SEED DRILL...SEE HOW IT WORKS!! - YouTube
 
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/ Disc harrows #32  
I don't disagree with the advice that's already been given, but based on my own experiences there are a couple other ways to handle this:

One is to use the rippers on a box blade can be used to good effect for breaking up ground, the trick is to just have them fully lowered, and the box blade tilted forward as much as possible. It's a method I've used to clear vegetation that was 6-7 feet tall, after which the area was then seeded with a mix of grasses.

The other (which I've used to rehabilitate some my own pasture areas) is to just mow whatever is growing there as soon as it starts flowering, or otherwise producing a seed head -- cutting it no shorter than ~4 inches. The pressure on any weeds will eventually kill them, and the grass is maintained at a height where (many varieties) have their best growth rates. ....and all the cut material turns into a cheap compostable-matter that's already put where it's needed.

If it's just grass that's being planted, the soil doesn't have to be worked deep, really just breaking the crust so the seeds can have good soil contact can be enough. So even a chain or spike harrow can work (either of which also can be used to break up and spread animal droppings as well). These things have worked for me in the Alabama clay I deal with .... it's just a matter of watching for good/optimal soil conditions, which generally tends to happen around the same part of the year for optimal grass/ground cover planting. In the drier months around here, it's might actually be easier to crack concrete than penetrate the soil.

(just realizing I've done both, and breaking up concrete was in fact easier).

Though as always your mileage may vary based upon your local soil conditions.
 
/ Disc harrows
  • Thread Starter
#33  
/ Disc harrows #34  
Today the Field Cultivator is NOT one of the best known Three Point Hitch mounted implements.

What is wrong with the three point hitch cultivator? Is the pull type cultivator better?

I have both, both 14 feet wide. I never found the time to set up the three point hitch cultivator.
 
/ Disc harrows #35  
I don't see why something like that wouldn't work - even if the blade acts like a float/gauge and prevents the rippers from digging in deeply it shouldn't be a problem as grass shouldn't need deep soil work. If it does then there are likely other issues in the ground that would need to be resolved.

Just for comparison of tillage depths for planting grass, I'd look at a harley rakes and see how shallow they tend to work, and yet they are they are frequently used to successfully create yards/lawns.
 
/ Disc harrows #36  
I don't see why something like that wouldn't work - even if the blade acts like a float/gauge and prevents the rippers from digging in deeply it shouldn't be a problem as grass shouldn't need deep soil work. If it does then there are likely other issues in the ground that would need to be resolved.

Just for comparison of tillage depths for planting grass, I'd look at a harley rakes and see how shallow they tend to work, and yet they are they are frequently used to successfully create yards/lawns.
As far as establishment of grass if we aren't talking re-leveling the ground you can just spray a glyphosate, kill everything and sow your seed and fertilizer back into the dead grass that's there after about 10-14 days or whatever the label says you can re seed. The existing grass will hold the seed and make it moist as it somewhat shades the ground. This would create a similar effect to spreading seed then straw out over the bare soil to help hold it.
 
/ Disc harrows #37  
I could have worded that better, our 9th property, bought and sold all the way to this one, the past have been diverse from urban 1/4 acres to a 50 acre piece of parched earth that supported nothing but snakes and big ants, this one is OK but want a bigger house and more land, one we are looking at is 36 acres and another at 24 acres, the smaller one is cheaper but needs a lot of money to bring it up to scratch, the bigger one is pretty much OK but needs a little land work.
AU$600k and $650k respectively.
Money left over from our place would top up my superannuation and keep us comfortably and allow us to add more water tanks, solar and efficient hot water service, about 10km from a major town but 200km from the city, we are currently about 75km from the city and can command a higher price plus we have been rezoned to residential and can subdivide into 1/2 acre lots.
We rarely travel to the city, has nothing to offer except bad traffic and expensive parking, most regional centres are as good and can supply everything we need including medical.

My farm is 151 acres. New 1900 sqft house and 1800 sqft shop. It would appraise at $775K. I'm 80 miles from a major city, 10 miles from County Seat town of 3,500. Property values range widely here, increasing dramatically as you get closer to major city.

Anxiously following your adventure!!!

I, like you, rarely go to the city. Our Daughter and family live 20 miles from City. That's the extent of my trips there.
 
/ Disc harrows
  • Thread Starter
#38  
We live on the edge of a small town, pop roughly 2000, has a small but reasoably stocked supermarket, bank, bakery, pub, brewery, good hardware and rural supply store, 4 cafes, post office, 2 real estate agents, doctors and dentist.
If we want appliances it's a 30 minute drive to one of 5 large towns add another 20 minutes to a major shopping complex which we desperately try to avoid, too conjested and noisy but the urban dwellers love them.
Where we are looking at is between a major rural centre, pop about 75000 and a small town about the size of ours now, about a 15 minute drive to either.
At the moment things have gonw quiet and we are thinking about pulling off the market for a couple of months until it starts to warm up a bit and the rain stops.
We are reluctant to spend on our place as it will most likely just be bulldozed fordevelopment as we are close to town and a school but as we have been rezoned our rates will increase, by how much I don't know but at the moment we pay about $2kpa.
The further out we go the cheaper it becomes within reason, I do not need the city but do realise that we need a major town so have to strike that balance.
Our house is small, too small but we have made it comfortable, we have horses and need more room for them and would love more room so people can stay over without us getting in eaach others way.
I have made this place energy efficient and know that this will happen again with solar power etc etc, rates will reduce as we will need to catch and store oour own water, expect to pay about $20k for additional plastic tanks for about 60000 litres.
both the 24 and 36 acres would suit our needs, funny how we have gone metric and now talk hectares but everyone still talks and understands acres.
So a bit in the air but it will happen and our little utopia will present itself.
The towns we are looking at parking between are Traralgon and Rosedale in Victoria, the properties we have looked at are in Flynn which is a rural district, decent rainfall, off the highway, not too hilly and not bushfire prone.
 
/ Disc harrows #39  
I have at least 15 Starbucks locations within a 10 minute driving radius from the farm and about the same number of Tim Hortons.....

I neither love nor hate the situation. Im blessed to have my own “haven” (lived on the property my entire life)
 
/ Disc harrows #40  
I like that Hayes blade with the rippers on it. I could use that. My problem is that I have a lot of buried stumps just under the surface being cleared ground.
I have a lot of small rocks that seem to pop up after rain. (Whenever that happens) It has been many months since we had any. Promise of a storm in a couple of days. Let us hope.
I would love to be able to turn over the surface and pick up the rocks and re-sow the grass.

We have a great location. Gatton about 15 minutes. Population over 7000 and a agriculture university there. Large IGA and Coles and Aldi. Only 2 sets of traffic lights. :)
Toowoomba City is only 25 minutes away if we need to go there. Avoid if possible. Used to live there in another life.
Have pro-d and con-d about moving at times but know we would regret it.
 

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