3-Point Hitch Disconnecting 3 point tiller

[Cane Thing]

I'm a newbie and have a basic problem: I can't get my tiller PTO disconnected! My brother in law started teaching me to use a tractor 2 years ago, and for someone who didn't know a PTO from a harrow, I guess I've come Long way - but!!! My brother in law left for Montana and I'm trying to fend for myself. I had some hand operations a few years ago, so he would hook up and disconnect the implements. I was doing OK for a while but hooked up the Sicma FTH on to my Kubota L3940 for the first time and now can't get it off!!! I can't push in the button on the PTO on the tractor side. I "gently" used a hammer and still got no movement. Is it too much stress on it? My procedure was to lower the tiller to be able to disconnect the PTO first but that didn't work so I was able to remove the center arm but still no movement from the PTO. I thought still too much stress on it - maybe.

Is the same procedure used for attaching and disconnecting all 3 point implements? That is, 1. Connect the lifting arms 2. Connect the PTO. 3. Connect the center arm and adjust it to get the right angle for the implement. ?? Then to take off you just reverse the procedure? 1. Take off upper/center arm. 2. Take off PTO. 3. Disconnect lifting arms. ?? I need some help and guidance. Thanks.

 

[CliffordK]

All PTO shafts should have 2 pieces that slide onto each other, with LOTS OF GREASE. There should be at least 6" of play in the shaft, so it can be connected and disconnected with the device fully connected to the 3pt hitch. There have been discussions on cutting the shafts on this forum.

If all else fails, disconnect the 3pt hitch, then drive forward. The PTO shaft should slip apart. Then work on disconnecting it. I've tapped the pin with a hammer and/or used WD40. Usually once you loosen the pin, you will be able to hold it down with just your thumb as you slide it apart. BTW, the PTO splines should also be greased.

U-Joints should be designed to be oriented in only 2 directions, both pieces close together in the same direction, and both pieces farthest from each other in the same direction.

Someone might have their own opinion, but connect and disconnect in whatever order seems most logical (and doesn't get you squished).

 

[TomSeller]

I'm a newbie and have a basic problem: I can't get my tiller PTO disconnected! My brother in law started teaching me to use a tractor 2 years ago, and for someone who didn't know a PTO from a harrow, I guess I've come Long way - but!!! My brother in law left for Montana and I'm trying to fend for myself. I had some hand operations a few years ago, so he would hook up and disconnect the implements. I was doing OK for a while but hooked up the Sicma FTH on to my Kubota L3940 for the first time and now can't get it off!!! I can't push in the button on the PTO on the tractor side. I "gently" used a hammer and still got no movement. Is it too much stress on it? My procedure was to lower the tiller to be able to disconnect the PTO first but that didn't work so I was able to remove the center arm but still no movement from the PTO. I thought still too much stress on it - maybe.

Is the same procedure used for attaching and disconnecting all 3 point implements? That is, 1. Connect the lifting arms 2. Connect the PTO. 3. Connect the center arm and adjust it to get the right angle for the implement. ?? Then to take off you just reverse the procedure? 1. Take off upper/center arm. 2. Take off PTO. 3. Disconnect lifting arms. ?? I need some help and guidance. Thanks.

Some of the buttons are stubborn and all of them are spring loaded to return to the locked (button extended) position. Is it going in when you tap on it? If not, you might want to gently tap the end with the button towards the tractor and try again. Then tap (or pry) away from the tractor and try again. It might be bound up. Was the spline shaft greased beforehand? If not, it should be. So should the lock button so it slides easily.

Your assembly, disassembly routine seems fine to me, I don't think that is your problem. Maybe a tool like a carpenter's clamp can help you push in and hold the button if you don't have the hand strength due to your operations. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[newbury]

Sounds like an opportunity to add to your collection of hand tools.
Like Tom wrote.
Get a C-clamp of appropriate size. Use that to hold the darn button down.

 

[Cane Thing]

Sounds like an opportunity to add to your collection of hand tools.
Like Tom wrote.
Get a C-clamp of appropriate size. Use that to hold the darn button down.

Got my c-clamp, and heading for tractor. I appreciate all the input! I'll keep you posted. BTW, pin didn't budge with the taps from hammer. I'm sure I didn't have enough grease. I'll spray first with WD40 and see if it loosens. Then grease

 

[Ted Summey]

+1 on disconnecting the tiller from top link and lift arm then pulling forward to allow the two halves of the PTO shaft to slide apart. Then you can get in there to diagnose the problem. This will also relieve any pressure on the shaft. Be careful not to tip the tiller over forward when you pull the tractor forward. Sometimes a tiller will put a bind on the PTO shaft just by the weight of the tines and running gear.

 

[gwdixon]

I agree with unhooking everything else from the tractor and driving forward to separate the shaft into its two pieces. With only the one piece left on the tractor you can get to the pin and apply pressure much more easily.

The pin slides into a depression on the tractor's PTO shaft. That is what locks the tiller's shaft to the tractor's PTO output shaft. About halfway down the pin is a cut out area so that when the pin is depressed the cut out slides into the area of the depression and the tiller's shaft can then be pulled off.

It is essential that the pin can be depressed. Mud, a stone, rust, and who knows what else can cause the pin to jam. A hammer (or a bigger hammer as TripleR suggests) and a serious hose-down with WD40 should work. If the pin breaks they can sometimes be replaced. If not then the whole end U-joint with a new pin can be replaced for not much money. Tractor Supply and tractor dealers have the repair parts.

Don't be surprised if the C-clamp doesn't work well. Some of the pins slide though to the other side and the C-clamp will hold the other side closed.

Just know that you are not alone. It happens.

Be sure to let us know how it turns out.

Edit: DARN YOU TED!!! This happens to me all the time. Someone posts a better answer while I'm writing mine!!! :laughing:

 

[oldballs]

My hand strength is fading too. Having bought a brand new tiller, most of the PTO parts were all rusted up and the dealer did nothing or said nothing for this newbie. But since then I've found that if you get everything cleaned up and greased up it does go better. If you can rotate the the PTO shaft so that the "button" is up, you might try using a long punch of some type to get a shot at that button (on the tractor side of the shaft). And then if you can hold it down and pry with a bar of some kind you can back it off if it is rusted on. Cheers, despite your frustration. Mike

Yes there are smarter guys here than me ............thank goodness.:thumbsup:

 

[Cane Thing]

My hand strength is fading too. Having bought a brand new tiller, most of the PTO parts were all rusted up and the dealer did nothing or said nothing for this newbie. But since then I've found that if you get everything cleaned up and greased up it does go better. If you can rotate the the PTO shaft so that the "button" is up, you might try using a long punch of some type to get a shot at that button (on the tractor side of the shaft). And then if you can hold it down and pry with a bar of some kind you can back it off if it is rusted on. Cheers, despite your frustration. Mike

Yes there are smarter guys here than me ............thank goodness.:thumbsup:

No movement of pin! 3 point is off and PTO shaft extended out, so should be no pressure from that. Tried clamp and did it with space left on other side. I'm going to get punch and bigger hammer!!!

 

[Cane Thing]

No movement of pin! 3 point is off and PTO shaft extended out, so should be no pressure from that. Tried clamp and did it with space left on other side. I'm going to get punch and bigger hammer!!!

Still no movementh!

 

[Cane Thing]

Still no movement!

Thanks for all the help, folks. I actually was still learning from all the comments, so I really appreciate your input. This was my first real post and you all made me comfortable enough that I'll come back to bug you some more!!! Have a great day

 

[Baby Grand]

Any chance that pin is a shear pin and the actual release mechanism is one of the pull collar types?



Picture credit: tawilson

 

[CliffordK]

I assume you put it together so you'd know if it had a bolt or something in place of the pin.

why don't you take some photos (both sides of the pin).

I fear that pounding on it with a bigger hammer, you'll break something, or mushroom the head or something. New PTO shafts are more expensive than they seem like they should be.

Any possibility the pin is already pressed in?

The question comes back to how it got stuck. Could the PTO shaft have been too long and it got jammed together? Or not enough lubrication everywhere? Try tapping the shaft together or or apart slightly. And, of course, use some WD40 on the pin and shaft if you didn't have enough lube on the shaft.

 

[yeagisyeag]

I'll agree with several others, thinking your shaft bottomed out and put pressure on the pin. Even with the tiller off and the shaft in two, there still could be a bind on the pin from the splines on the pto shaft. If it's possible, you could try to pry outward on the knuckle then push in the pin.

This post has reminded me to take a can of WD out, I think I'll duct tape it to a chain on the tractor so I can alway find it!

Good luck.

Jim

 

[newbury]

Any chance that pin is a shear pin and the actual release mechanism is one of the pull collar types?

View attachment 314679

Picture credit: tawilson

That occurred to me, also. But the OP put it on. My wife's cousin loaned me a tractor with tiller & PTO attached. It was my first ever PTO disconnect. He told me it was a pin. I had to look on here to discover there ain't no pin, it was a pull collar!

To the OP - After liberal WD40 try a LITTLE heat. Use a butane torch BUT BE SURE NOT TO MELT ANYTHING. Then apply some Kroil Amazon.com: kroil

 

[gwdixon]

That occurred to me, also. But the OP put it on. My wife's cousin loaned me a tractor with tiller & PTO attached. I was my first ever PTO disconnect. He told me it was a pin. I had to look on here to discover there ain't no pin, it was a pull collar!

To the OP - After liberal WD40 try a LITTLE heat. Use a butane torch BUT BE SURE NOT TO MELT ANYTHING. Then apply some Kroil Amazon.com: kroil

If you do the heat/flame thing be sure to have a fire extinguisher handy (like in your other hand).

 

[Cane Thing]

I now have photos. Still no budging.

 

[Cane Thing]

It's OFF !!! Thank you , everyone! Triple Rs Bigger Hammer! MORE FORCE!!! Also sitting around talking with my older, 77, brother in law, watching WD 40 sink in, Did it!
Pin goes through to other side. There must be a problem with the pin because it still won't pop out. Have a great night. This 68 year old is going to hook up the Bush Hog with a well greased PTO and cut some pasture!

 

[Cane Thing]

Pin stuck in down

 

[CliffordK]

It looks pretty standard.
Clean, not rusty.
Likely the reason the C Clamp didn't work is that the pin has to be pushed all the way through. So, a clamp just holds it in place, unless you make a custom clamp with a hole in the bottom or figure out how to get the clamp on so it doesn't hinder the pin movement.

That is a pretty big hammer.
You've obviously whacked it a few times as the dents are obvious.

The spring, of course, is designed to pop the pin back out, so normally you would hold it in as you remove the shaft. So, the hammer should just be used to loosen it, then one would normally hold the pin down with one's thumb. I.E. You don't pound it in like a nail.

I'm not sure what would happen if you bend the pin, but it would certainly be a pain.

As you TAP it with a much smaller hammer than you have, you don't feel anything move on the other side?