Discouraged by the work involved changing implements

[k0ua]

Once again, everyone's conditions, and what they do with their tractors are NOT the same.
For instance I don't understand why everyone does not have a Kioti. just kidding..

 

[Chilly807]

Something to try on the PTO shaft: hook up the implement as usual, the lower links first then the top link. Then get one of those cheap ratchet straps (the kind with the cam buckle not a ratchet) and use it to sling the PTO shaft from the top link. They are easy to adjust up and down and will hold the PTO shaft at the right height, so all you have to do is work the lock mechanism and slide it on. Not having to support the shaft while doing those other tasks will make it easier.

I was thinking this too.. I hate supporting the weight of the shaft while trying to slip it on the PTO stub. It takes a few minutes longer, but hey, do you really have something else that HAS to get done right now?

When I park an implement that I don't plan to use again that day, I pull the PTO shaft apart and hang the tractor half on a peg on the wall. This keeps the sliding joint lubed (or reminds me to grease it if it needs it) and keeps the U-joint from hanging in the dirt or me whacking a shin on it.

+1 I always pull the tractor end off and take it with me in the bucket. 1: It stays clean and easy to install and 2: If some SOB steals the implement, at least they'll have to buy a half shaft before they can use it.

As for hooking up, there really is nothing like a crowbar to get things lined up. If I thought hopping on and off the tractor and making tiny adjustments would help, I'd have parked the dam* thing in the right place the first time.

Sean

 

[flusher]

Bought my Kubota B2710 new back in 1999 and it has been great. But as I get older I am finding it harder and harder to change out implements to the point many times I just don't do what I planned because for example I know I will need my tiller in a month and it is on the tractor now and I don't want to take it off and put the post hole digger on for 3 post holes, then take it off and put the tiller back on. By the time I get an implement changed I am worn out especially when its hot. I know there are quick connects for the lower links which might help some (never tried them) but my PTO shafts I sawed off to fit would then probably be too short, plus about 60% of the effort in changing out an implement is getting that blasted PTO hooked up. Just can't seem to get any leverage and get the power to get it on there. Have to pull back the sleeve (or holding a button down) while pushing at the same time and it just is not natural. I realize both male and female have to be clean and greased and I make sure I do that, but it still is not easy. If somebody REALLY made it easy to change out implements they would have it made.

I'm a old geezer and can feel my age creeping up on me. So to make life easier when attaching implements to my tractors, I use wheel guides like these to get the 3 pt hitch aligned to the implement pins.



A few lengths of 4x6 lumber, holes drilled for round metal stakes to keep them in place, painted white for visibility. Get the rear wheels of my Mahindra 5525 aligned nearly perfectly to reattach these mowers. Only a minimum amount of levering needed via the 5-ft pry bar to finish the hookup.

Good luck

 

[k0ua]

So has anyone actually use the John Deere Imatch equipped with the AutoHitch I posted a link to earlier.? I know thousands of folks have the Imatch, but I have never heard of anyone talking about the AutoHitch portion that hooks up the PTO also. I realize you need the adapter on every PTO powered implement and that would add costs but for guys that are having this much trouble hooking up a PTO, perhaps it would be worth it to them.

 

[yeagisyeag]

If the collar on the pto coupler is older, there may be some grooves worn on the inside where the balls ride. My mid-pto collar was like that, what a pain! The balls would bind and not retract all the way. I was able to take it apart and turn the inside ring to where the balls were riding on a fresh spot.

Jim

 

[JoeL4330]

Perhaps somewhere else in the post someone suggested watching this video ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYwCFgdxr6c&list=PLj2RMfvPdG7vuZwbWJ74ZzNrlDRgcjD6l&index=7

Watch through to the end ! (or skip to 3 min 30 sec.

 

[jenkinsph]

So has anyone actually use the John Deere Imatch equipped with the AutoHitch I posted a link to earlier.? I know thousands of folks have the Imatch, but I have never heard of anyone talking about the AutoHitch portion that hooks up the PTO also. I realize you need the adapter on every PTO powered implement and that would add costs but for guys that are having this much trouble hooking up a PTO, perhaps it would be worth it to them.

I tried the autohitch out and thought it was pretty slick. The concern I had was I wasn't sure what to do about the other pto implements that were not auto hitch capable. I could see it working great with the 673 tiller and MX6 though. Problem is the autohitch on the IMatch would prevent me from using the other pto implements in the standard setup since it would be in the way. If I get a new chipper and spin spreader that are autohitch capable I would go for it.

 

[Chilly807]

I tried the autohitch out and thought it was pretty slick. The concern I had was I wasn't sure what to do about the other pto implements that were not auto hitch capable. I could see it working great with the 673 tiller and MX6 though. Problem is the autohitch on the IMatch would prevent me from using the other pto implements in the standard setup since it would be in the way. If I get a new chipper and spin spreader that are autohitch capable I would go for it.

I think that's the problem with most of us. My implements for example are a mish mash of new, old, and ancient stuff, some of which have been adapted to even be usable on a 3-point hitch tractor. My disc for example was never intended to be lifted by a 3-point hitch, rather it was originally a pull-behind type.

When I adapted it, I used TLAR design software when I set up the 3-point mounting geometry. For those of you that aren't familiar with it, TLAR stands for "That Looks About Right".

As a result, it's entirely usable but really meets no recognized standard except maybe the distance between lower lift arms.

If money was no object, I'd probably have insisted that each implement I own be compatible with at least some sort of quick-hitch system just to make it easier on me. As it is, I consider myself lucky to have found a "working implement that fits my tractor" at a "reasonable price" and call it a day. The third element in an ideal situation would be "requires no adjustment to attach to tractor". In the real world, it comes down to "here's three conditions, pick any two and live with it"


The video Joel4330 listed in his post is a good example of most TBN users. We're not usually professional farmers or equipment operators, instead a mix of young weekend warriors and older hobby farmers. I wouldn't have it any other way myself. I have no desire to have my financial future decided by weather and market prices, which is reality for most farmers. As such, I can deal with compromises if they let me have the equipment I want and not break the bank doing it.

I do get a bit jealous when we go to pick up hay though. The guy we buy from has at least 4-5 newer 150+HP New Holland tractors, all with cabs and God alone knows what else in creature comforts inside. I don't even want to know what those cost, I just know he's in a whole different league than I am.

So, if I'm using a crowbar and cussing a little when I hook up my old disc to the back of the Kubota, that's my choice, really. I made it, and considering the alternative I'm okay with that.

Not a rant, just sayin'

Sean

 

[k0ua]

TLAR ! love it. gotta remember that one!

Heck most of my fabrication and design work is like that!

 

[Chilly807]

I can't even claim it as an original. A friend of my wife's is a farm boy from BC, he uses it almost exclusively.. proper pronunciation is T-LAR (tee-lar), or so I'm told. It usually works for me, although there have been a few occasions when I've come to the realization that "that's not gonna fit, no way, no how". Usually as the last weld is cooling.

Sean