Ditch Witch C99

[Whattheheld]

I am needing to get an air filter element for the Ditch Witch C99. The one I have is the round dry element filter and it is totally shot. Cant seem to find any place that sells them. I would appreciate any information.

Were you able to find a replacement air filter? I was striking out today

 

[Whattheheld]

Joining the club here. Just pulled the old C99 out of the back 40 to see if I can get it running. Starting with gas, spark plug, air filter, and pull rope and we will go from there

 

[BeaconWoods]

You might try calling Ditch Witch about the air filter. Their motto is, "Every part for every machine ever"

I think I sent the manuals a bit ago. Hopefully you can find a part number in there that you can cross reference. In the past I have had to take a filter to a parts store and have them look through all the boxes. These days I wonder if you could find a filter maker's web site that lists the dimensions of all their filters and come up with one.

Let us know how it all turns out.

 

[Whattheheld]

Got the spark plug swapped out and some gas in it but couldn’t get it to turn over. Spark plug cable seems to have iffy continuity and I don’t see a spark at the plug so I will try to replace the connector to see if that does it.

 

[Barry Rhodes]

A big thanks to Dave for the information!

This past weekend I changed the tires on my C99 and cleaned up the gear selector. It wasn't selected the forward gear, and I found a broken spring along with being jammed full of dirt. Here is a summary.

After a good power washing:

After removing the locking collars and a few snap rings, the gear box slides off the shaft. If I were to do this again, I wouldn't have taken the whole axle off, I would have removed the drive chain, jacked up the trencher on the drive side, removed the wheel, then remove the gear box. It would have saved a lot of time.

Here a found the broken flat spring

someone decided to weld up this box. I didn't weld it back when I put it together, so I hope it holds with just the two bolts.

Here you can see the dirt jamming the gear selector. The power washing didn't get rid of this dirt.

I welded the spring back together. I didn't think it would work, but I gave it a try.

Here is the selector back together.

Here is a video of the selector. Notice how these tabs will engage when the selector is all the way to one side and in the middle neither tab will engage.

And just because I liked how these wheels turned out:

I hope this helps some c99 owners out there!

Nice job, I have a c4 that uses the same gearbox nice to have an idea of how it is supposed to be.

 

[Barry Rhodes]

I would be happy to send them but I will need an email address that can accept file attachm

Would love the same manuals at biggermacdaddy@yahoo.com thanks

 

[BeaconWoods]

Nice job, I have a c4 that uses the same gearbox nice to have an idea of how it is supposed to be.

Hey Barry, great job on the pics and great job in general! I think the gear boxes are all welded from the factory. Surprising to me but maybe DW figures they will never break. Did Dave send you the manuals yet? If not, I can get them off to you.

Happy trenching and wrenching,

Gary

 

[mcconnll]

I could sure use the manual set if someone could send it along, mcconnll6@gmail.com Just bought a c-9 for 500 and after fixing a VERY leaky gas tank (still have to reline it) it fires up with a good hard pull, has a ton of compression. but the drive reduction lever is bent a bit and I'm not sure things are right down there. You have to move the trencher a bit till it rotates that "hub" with the lever around and you can move the lever to engage it. It would seem that reduction unit should be static (bolted or welded to the frame) so you can put it into forward or reverse pretty quick and easy. Seems odd that you have to push the trencher around 3 or 4 feet to get that lever to be exposed so you can click it in or out

 

[BeaconWoods]

I could sure use the manual set if someone could send it along, mcconnll6@gmail.com Just bought a c-9 for 500 and after fixing a VERY leaky gas tank (still have to reline it) it fires up with a good hard pull, has a ton of compression. but the drive reduction lever is bent a bit and I'm not sure things are right down there. You have to move the trencher a bit till it rotates that "hub" with the lever around and you can move the lever to engage it. It would seem that reduction unit should be static (bolted or welded to the frame) so you can put it into forward or reverse pretty quick and easy. Seems odd that you have to push the trencher around 3 or 4 feet to get that lever to be exposed so you can click it in or out

Manuals are on their way. If I am understanding (and remembering mine correctly) If you engage the drive belt, the reduction unit will rotate around. You can then engage the lever. Keep us posted and maybe put up some pics. Do you reline the entire tank? Or replace the fuel line? How would you reline the tank? In any case, be sure to use non alcohol gas in this unit.

-Gary

 

[mcconnll]

Manuals are on their way. If I am understanding (and remembering mine correctly) If you engage the drive belt, the reduction unit will rotate around. You can then engage the lever. Keep us posted and maybe put up some pics. Do you reline the entire tank? Or replace the fuel line? How would you reline the tank? In any case, be sure to use non alcohol gas in this unit.

-Gary

I got the manuals, Thank You. Lining the tank is done by washing it out with Purple Power degreaser and scalding hot water, then I put Phosphoric Acid (which is concrete etch/cleaner from Home Depot, paint aisles, about 17 for a 1/2 gallon) This will eat rust and etch surfaces to prep for the liner (used this trick on MANY a rusted truck frame prior to painting). Rinse and dry the tank thoroughly. I then used KBS tank liner (amazon, 15 for 8oz which is enough for 2 or 3 tanks) both the acid and liner you slosh around and keep turning the tank to another side every 2 or 3 minutes for an hour. After the hour I dumped the excess liner material and let it set for 4 days to harden/dry thoroughly. 8oz could do up to like a 20 gal tank in a shot, all about letting the liner slowly crawl across the tank surface. The excess material can also be used on the exterior of the tank if you like. I'll post pics of the tank now. I also replaced the glass filter bowl as mine broke when I tried to open it to clean it up (ebay, 15), got 1/8npt to 1/4 hose 90s (5 for 6 on amazon) and Fleet Farm for 2' of 1/4 fuel line for .98/ft. Entire fuel feed is "new". First attempt got no where and trouble shot the ignition to find ether in the hole would fire for a second so fuel delivery was bad, opened the bowl drain and got nothing. Kissed the gas tank for a BJ and it started flowing. Closed up the bowl drain after letting it flow a cup or so and it fired right up. It was hunting and then died when I idled it down so might be best to take the carb apart and clean it out right. Former owner just had it full onion full time so I know he was an idiot, the travel gear would launch it into next week at full throttle.