DIY Home built compact tractor

[GT2]

Fellas, I may have something to offer to the steering question, but in the end my suggestion may do nothing more than help me learn!

...... First off, what's the centre of gravity going to be like on that machine? Will it be high or low? Also, I recall that it has a shorter wheelbase. This would make it more prone to tipping, correct?

If the above is true, then I would not be too quick to decrease the turning potential as a steering system that turns the machine too quickly will decrease its operating stability. If it requires more turns of the steering wheel to make the turn, that means that the machine will turn more slowly and would allow the operator to have more control as they could make more minute steering adjustments.

These are kind of "off the top of my head" comments and I look forward to any responses as they will help me understand this whole fabrication process a bit better (as you can probably tell I have never undertaken such an impressive project as this one is turning out to be).

Thanks!

As far as tipping and center of G, based on what I've seen in other tractors I dont think mine will be much different than others on the market.

In the racing/ performance "world" the faster the ground speed the slower the steering speed, slower/faster.

I would think that quicker steering would allow you more control against tipping. ( allowing you to counter steer quicker)

My thoughts were that as I'm crusing thru the brush if I were to encounter a stump or something, haveing to crank 4 full turns lock to lock would be a bit slow.

I was hoping some of the tractor owners out there would tell me what thier tractors have for lock to lock.

Thanks, Tim

 

[dbdartman]

Four turns lock-to-lock is two turns from straight to full turn.

IMHO, I wouldn't worry about that right now. Get a few hours on the beastie & see how you like it. IF you're unhappy with it, then you have the option of lengthening the pitman arm, or shortening the steering knuckles. It's been my experience that these parts are forged steel & as such can be cut & welded easily.

BTW, without going out & trying it, I believe my JD4400 has about the same steering ratio.

 

[cjcocn]

As far as tipping and center of G, based on what I've seen in other tractors I dont think mine will be much different than others on the market.

In the racing/ performance "world" the faster the ground speed the slower the steering speed, slower/faster.

I would think that quicker steering would allow you more control against tipping. ( allowing you to counter steer quicker)

My thoughts were that as I'm crusing thru the brush if I were to encounter a stump or something, haveing to crank 4 full turns lock to lock would be a bit slow.

I was hoping some of the tractor owners out there would tell me what thier tractors have for lock to lock.

Thanks, Tim

See - I told you I would be learning something!

Thanks for that info, it makes a lot of sense.

Sorry I can't offer any concrete info on the turns - my old tractor is in pieces right now and my steering wheel is in a pile with the other pieces.

 

[bx23barry]

I just went out and counted turns on my bx. I got about 2.75 lock to lock. It doesn't seem very quick either so I would shoot for something in the 2-3 range. It might be easier to shorten the steering arm on the axle than to make the pitman arm longer. either will work.

 

[GT2]

I just went out and counted turns on my bx. I got about 2.75 lock to lock. It doesn't seem very quick either so I would shoot for something in the 2-3 range. It might be easier to shorten the steering arm on the axle than to make the pitman arm longer. either will work.

Thanks!
Ha! My truck has the same turn to turn (2.75).
So I think I'll shoot for that.

 

[GT2]

I've got the steering links mocked up. Please excuse my temporary tacked together tubes and rods and bolts.
After dinking around on paper figuring lengths and angles I tack welded these brackets to the back of the front axle pivot plate.

I then tacked up this bell crank. I found those bronze bushings at Lowes. I'm going to add a zerk to the pivot tube.

Here is the pic of the bell crank temporarly installed.

On the right is the rod coming from the steering box, the rod on top going left to my temporary steering arm, and the tie rod (bottom) connecting the spindels. It works well with 2.25 turns lock to lock! Yes I know the tire/wheel is on the wrong side !

 

[SCDolphin]

What incredible workmanship but still hate to see a Samuri hit the dust.

 

[bx23barry]

Kool! Why didn't ya mount the box up front instead of the bell-crank arrangment?

 

[GT2]

Kool! Why didn't ya mount the box up front instead of the bell-crank arrangment?

Believe me I racked my brain trying to figure how to do that.
I would have had to design a complicated set of shafts and universal joints to get over/around the engine and in the end all that stuff would have been in the way anytime I wanted to work on the engine.

Thats my story and I'm stickin to it!

 

[john_bud]

Believe me I racked my brain trying to figure how to do that.
I would have had to design a complicated set of shafts and universal joints to get over/around the engine and in the end all that stuff would have been in the way anytime I wanted to work on the engine.

Thats my story and I'm stickin to it!

It would have been much easier to use a steering cylinder hard mounted to the frame and just run hyd lines from the steering column. More $$, but easier!

jb