DIY Leaf Vac

[Carl_NH]

Cannon,

Welding the muffler is much better option than copper and epoxy as I think the delta of expansion between the metals and epoxy then vibrations would last maybe a hour ... so welding is the best for muffler.

Next will be the connecting pipe from your impeller housing to the cart. The trac vac uses a fairly stout 6" flexible pipe (one radius) with a 45* connector to the dump box. You must be careful about this pipe because projectiles from the blower will dent the impeller housing and this pipe (i know i have a 580 Trac Vac)

Then you will need to make the dump box on top of the cart, and the Trac Vac has tapered sides from front to back to enable unloading easily so stuff falls out easily. Dont know your plans around building your box but I suspect thats next on your list..

You can build a plywood box with a hinged rear door but be sure you have some good material on the door as the projectiles from the blower will also create dents etc..

Good luck.

 

[rswyan]

Then you will need to make the dump box on top of the cart, and the Trac Vac has tapered sides from front to back to enable unloading easily so stuff falls out easily.

Sorry, but I have to disagree on this one - stuff rarely comes out of my Trac Vac (a Model 880) easily ........ particularly if whatever it is (grass or leaves) is at all moist.

The unit itself sits so low to the ground that it is impossible to tilt it enough to achieve an adequate dump angle to easily empty.

I do agree with Carl regarding epoxying the modified exhaust system - you would be much better off having it welded.

Another alternative (to using the original muffler) would be cutting off the muffler (from the exhaust pipe and flange) and welding on a threaded female pipe fitting that would allow you to install a commonly available small engine muffler.

 

[JohninCT]

Gotta agree with others... I doubt the epoxy will withstand the heat of an exhaust system. Instead of taking the muffler off the engine and trying to make a new exhaust manifold/muffler, would it be possible for you to adapt to the outlet of the existing muffler to make it exhaust in a different direction (I'm thinking something like a metal downspout elbow)?

On the trailer, you could make the top hinge open as well as the back so that you could access the top of the leaf pile in the box. Fabricate a heavy strip of tarp or other material to lay in the bottom and up the back of the leaf box. The leaves blow in on top of it. To unload, you grab hold of the strip and pull it (and all the leaves) out the back of the box.

 

[aczlan]

Have you pulled the muffler off (rather than apart)? On many engines, the inside of the exhaust port was threaded for standard pipe. If it is not, I would cut apart the muffler, weld on (or tap into it) something to convert to pipe threads and install something like this: Briggs & Stratton 291519 Muffler For 8-16 HP Horizontal Cast Iron Models with a 1-Inch NPT on it.

Aaron Z

 

[Carl_NH]

rsryan,

The 880 is 50 Cu Ft vs 30 CU Ft capacity of the 580 I have probably makes for a longer cart and more overhang on he rear wheels equating to a lower angle of dump. Also I dont usually vac wet leaves, but on occasion when I do it still comes out as a brick of leaves/waste.

I unlatch the cart and tilt it back quickly which loosens the load then drive away. When less than full it does not dump as well due to less compaction. Over all tho i have not experienced any dumping / unloading issues..

 

[Cannon]

The HF Greyhound 6.5hp engine #66014/15 went on sale this week so will attempt to price match $99 vice what I paid 7 days earlier.

aczlan re: B&S muffler system http - thanx for expanding my knowledge.

Carl_NH re: capacities - am definitely extracting 880/850 knowledge of your model manual comparisons. I've two trailers to choose from (well, one cart & two trailers actually), but only one garden tractor.

I've picked up mods by reviewing a lot of parts diagrams from all manufacturers. And one feature I'll not be able to incorporate is a tilt back/emptying capability, mainly since the discharge from the blower housing will be permanently married to the trailer if at all possible to prevent flow reduction. Good feature for particular models, to be able to attach/detach the upper chute from the entire assembly, I just don't have the material thought out yet.

 

[Cannon]

HF Greyhound 6.5hp Mod #66014/15
Stock photo shows how exhaust/muffler (88) protrudes
past engine mount face preventing blower housing to simply fit against.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8240

 

[Cannon]

HF Greyhound 6.5hp Mod #66014/15
(Carl/John advice read morning after I performed mod)
Shows how I modified exhaust clearance problem. Would've liked a better outcome but the weld job was a 'friend of a friends and couldn't get back to in time - literally :05 min after the fact.

Result was at least the muffler assembly now clears both the top of the blower housing, and the parallel plane of the gas tank.

Cut original manifold (exhaust pipe), and welded a 7" length of steel pipe (1"od) from Home Depot at $1.76/ft.
(had HD cut at store).

Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

 

[Cannon]

HF Greyhound 6.5hp Mod #66014/15
Shows mounting face

For general knowledge:
- Shaft is 3/4" dia x 2 1/4" length; 3/16" keyway; and a 5/16"-24 central thread.
- Bolt Pattern is 3-5/8"; 8.0-1.25mm thread.

The Trac-Vac blower housing will mate easier now that the exhaust has been modified, but will still need spacers to clear tank & modified exhaust.

Pic shows flat washers - will change to 1 pc collar type.


Message - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

 

[Cannon]

Ugh, I ended up not having the same keystock sizes between the shaft and the Trac-Vac impeller & unfortunately didn't realize right away.

First reaction was 'wow, tight fit, guess I need a bigger hammer! Four blows later I realized my mistake.

No pic, but had to remove with a two arm 5 ton gear puller. Then replace the key with the appropriate size. Could've ground down the existing key that came with the engine, or ground out the keyway on the impeller but: 1) had extra hanging around; and 2) most importantly, I didn't want to cause any 'slop that would've been compounded/increased wearing from the amount of vibration that is going to occur already.

If needed, I could've purchased SAE or Metric 60pc keystock set at HF to marry-up properly at $8 or $9.99 each respectively.