DIY Post driver.

   / DIY Post driver. #1  

stephan

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2004
Messages
170
Location
NSW, Australia
Tractor
Lamborghini 450 Runner, SAME Tiger 70, Kioti CS2610
Hey if you've made you own Post Driver can you post pictures of it? I am thinking of making one (project after next) and want to get some ideas.

I'm going to make it cheap so if you have one with gold plated bits and pieces then still post it so I can rip off the clever ideas.

Cheers...
 
   / DIY Post driver. #2  
Are you talking about a 'T' post driver?

If so.. they are easy to make.. either take a pipe and weld a cap on it ( or a pipe with a threaded end.. and thread a cap on it.. ) Then take two pieces of rebar.. bend into handles and weld on.

Great idea if you have the scrap materials.. otherwise.. tractor supply has them for less than 20 bucks..


Soundguy
 
   / DIY Post driver.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
No I'm thinking of a really heavy weight that whacks posts into the ground driven by a tractor.

Something like this one but simpler and less costly.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #4  
A lot of guys around here have tubes built to fit on their backhoes in place of the bucket. set post in 2ft long tube,push down until post stands alone then whack it in the rest of the way. build the tubes out of the thickest steel you can get, buddies is 2" thick and about a 10 or 11" hole.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #5  
I havent seen a home built hydraulic one but I have seen one that was made from a car axle with a pair of master clinders to lock one drum and then one to slow and stop a spool. the input shaf was adapted to take a pto shaft then it hd a verticle mast about 12 feet tall out of 3 inch channel that had a 500 pound wieght slide up an down inside. They used it on a barg to drive 6inch diameter spud poles 10 feet into the hard chert river bottoms. My friend has it apart now they took it off the barge but hes now readapted it to go back on his tractor. William likes it better than a post digger as they is no hole to backfill and its ability to hoist the taller posts and other items . Hes even used it to break concrete foundations 6 inches thick.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #6  
Taylor,

I don't quite follow your description but it reminds me of a home made well driver I saw about 25 yrs ago. I think it may be a less sophisticated version of your description.

He took an old rear axle/differential assembly with an empty rim still attached to one drum. For Stephan's use it would be mounted behind the tractor, parallel to the tractor's rear axle, with the drive shaft connected to the PTO.

He mounted a tall mast with a sliding weight to the old axle .

A heavy rope was tied to the weight, routed up over the top of the mast, down to the rim, and wrapped around the rim once or twice. The rope wrapped around the rim served as the clutch.

In use, the PTO ran continuously, and therefore, so did the rim. When the rope wraps were loose, the lift mechanism was in neutral. When you pulled on the loose end of the rope, the wraps tightened on the rim, causing the rotating rim to wind up rope and raise the weight. When the weight was high enough, you let go of the rope, the rope loses it grip on the rim, and the weight drops.

I didn't get to see this actually run. It was sitting in my neighbor's yard one night and I surmised how it worked. But as I type this, I'm wondering if you lifted the weight high and there were many wraps, if the "clutch" would release reliably. If not, your only choice would be to run like hell. He may have used a heavy weight and low lift height to minimize the number of wraps. Or maybe used some lubricant on the rope.

I don't know who came up with this concept but it supports my belief that some of the best engineers never set foot in a college classroom. Lets see.... "Design and build a machine to vertically transfer 500 ft-lb of energy 6 times/minute. Don't spend more than $50 and, oh, have it by Thursday."

John
 
   / DIY Post driver. #7  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't know who came up with this concept but it supports my belief that some of the best engineers never set foot in a college classroom.)</font>

A friend of mine has the trickest little shut off for his band saw. A standard electrical, plastic even, switch with a hole drilled in the lever. A chain runs from that to the saw frame that moves. When the saw cuts through it pulls the chain taught and voila!

When I first read this thread my thoughts went back to pictures of pier (pile) drivers of the nineteenth century. Weight was lifted up and then dropped.

It could be something as simple as a hydraulic cylinder that lifts a rod. The rod has a catch that picks up the weight. When the cylinder hits maximum a lever engages and releases the weight. Cylinder is brought back to the bottom where it catches the weight and we start all over again.

The capstan (rope and wheel) system could be used too. Anything that will engage, and then disengage, and let gravity do the dirty work.

The guys out west can best describe the capstan and winch line method of unloading bales of hay from a truck. Basically a small gasoline motor spins a capstan spool. Using a gin pole and ingenuity two men can unload and restack in the barn a hay truck in nothing flat.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #8  
Thats the same ype of set up my friend uses but instead of the capstan style he uses one side of the differential to act like a friction clutch on a crane. when the brake is locked on the side without the drum it causes the drum to wind up. when the brake is released the weight slides back down to hold the weight the brakes on the drum side are locked. once the post is set in the frame plumb you can run it from the seat of the tractor. In clay it takes about 10 strikes to drive a six inch pipe a foot. We are now thinking of taking an old transmisson and some industrial planer blades and making a post sharpener for the tractor to do some fencing.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #9  
I too am considering building a driver. I need to drive some piling for footings. Here in Alaska you have to put them in the ground a ways so the freeze doesn't lift them. I was thinking of a folding unit so I could lay it down with a pivot so it would be able to move. Stand it up and pin it. Use a belt system and an idler pulley to tighten to lift and release to drop. with a small pulley on the driveshaft and a larger one connected to a cable drum with a locking lug to hold it while putting a post in. With this I hope to be able to drive longer pipe.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #15  
Notice how the guy that did the least, is the first guy to the water. I've worked with guys like that.

Ha, there's always that one guy isn't there. On every job that one guy.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #16  
Hitch-operated post knocker:


Bruce
 
   / DIY Post driver. #17  
I have seen a couple of store bought drivers, and have made some mental notes on how they work.

1. Both drivers I looked at just lift a weight up and let it drop. All the doo-dads on the driver just support this basic design; Lift a heavy weight up, and then let it fall on the top of the post.

2. The hydraulic shaver driver I worked with was one of these designs. The hydraulic cylinder was puny and small. It took very little hydraulic volume and pressure to operate this cylinder, all it did was lift the weight up to the top. The tricky part to this design is the return line from the valve. To let the weight free fall, the fluid needs to leave the cylinder quickly with no resistance. This system used a small pressure line from the tractor, but used a huge dedicated low pressure line to a special spot so it can dump directly into the hydraulic tank on the tractor. We used ours on a skid steer, and had to take the skid steer to a dealer and have a extra fitting cut and installed into the hydraulic tank for this large return line to fit. I also saw some pictures on the web where people with farm tractors just took their reservoir fill cap off, and stuck the line down in the fill tube and let it run the fluid back to the tank that way.

3. The other design I watched work also used the weight/free fall method, but it was very simple slick way to do it. It mounted on the 3 point hitch of a tractor, and had a very dinky small driveshaft with u-joints hooked to the pto. This driveshaft went to a small gear box. The output of this small gear box turned a small chain which ran up and turned a hard rubber wheel about 6 inches in diameter. The mast of the driver was a tall u-shaped piece of metal that the post sat in. Around this tall u-piece was another piece of metal that had the weight on the inside of the u, and on the other side it had a flat area. This piece moved up and down with guide wheels. The rubber wheel was right there at the flat area and turned all the time. All the operator did was pull a lever, this pressed the rubber wheel onto the weight piece that had the guide wheels, and it drove it upward. The operator at the correct time pull the lever the other way, the rubber wheel pulled back and this let the wheel guided piece fall down on top of the post. Very simple.
 
   / DIY Post driver. #18  
I went through this several years ago. Looking at building vs buying. Ended up buying Shaver post driver for $ 250.00. I had to drive 3 hours to get it. Rebuild cost was 10 hours of my time , 1 seal for 68.00 bucks. And paint for $ 100.00 or so. I ended up welding a 24 inch of RR track on top of it to increase driving power after test and before paint. I doubt you can buy steel for what I have in it. If it has rained in last 2 weeks it will drive a 6 inch post ( no point ) 2 to 3 inches per hit. 10 - 15 hits move to next one.
If you can wait to get one. I would suggest checking craigslist every day and be ready to buy fast if one pops up.
Good Luck
Scott
 
   / DIY Post driver. #19  

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