k0ua
Epic Contributor
Here is an easier test.. battery connected key to on position.. push the horn button.. does the horn blow as expected?
DK35 Dead - Won't Start
- Thread starter WhatIsChazaq
- Start date
- Views: 28533
Here is an easier test.. battery connected key to on position.. push the horn button.. does the horn blow as expected?
OP
WhatIsChazaq
Member
I centered the turn signal switch to no effect, and it was the left signal. It did not stop blinking until I tried to turn it over and everything died.
OP
WhatIsChazaq
Member
Mine is a '98 model. No horn. Sorry.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Ok.. let me look some more..and no horn, means there may be other things different on the diagram... hum... be back with you in a bit.
OP
WhatIsChazaq
Member
BTW - Know anyone in the area in the market for a rock rake, a single plow and/or a 3 Point PTO Wood Chipper, a 21 ton wood splitter...???
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Ok.. now I am starting to get confused.. Ok here is what we know.. Yes the flasher unit is powered all the time on its B terminal from the flasher and timer fuse. on some diagrams (I have 2) is shows as 25 amp and its L terminal goes out to the combination switch. out of the flasher the wire color appears to be Grey/with green tracer and goes into the B2 terminal on the combination switch (this is the turn signal and ho/low beam switch) on the turn signal portion of the switch you have 2 outputs R and L. green/white and red/white. these go to the right and left turn signals and then thru the bulbs to ground. So yes the flasher could be active with the key off. so it seems. Now it is looking like there might be corrosion in the combination switch. I just can't figure out how the lamps can get any voltage without going thru this switch. I am starting to go around here in circles myself.. And why does this prevent other things from working like the starter circuit?.. I don't have answers unless the ground to chassis thing is it.. I dunno...Any one else have any ideas.?
what kind of chipper? and rock rake?
James K0UA
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
I had a feeling you would not want to leave the tractor with the battery connected until this problem is solved. I want to reinforce that statement for the safety of your tractor and barn.
You have an intermittent short that can and very well might cause a fire when you are nowhere near the tractor.
You are close to the solution but not yet close enough to risk a bad outcome.
Since your tractor is a 98 model it could have enough time on one of the battery cables to render it incapable of handling the load of the electrical system when you go to crank the engine, thus all these weird things happening with buzzing relays, turn signal ghosts etc.
I would verify with someone's assistance, ( have them move the ground cable as you seek out voltage drop(s) ), that the ground to chassis from the battery is good with no intermittent issues. Then same with the positive cable. Just to be sure- you have replaced the battery, yes? With a new one of same CCA etc.?
If there is any question of the ground location of the battery ground wire running to the chassis change the ground wire with the same exact gauge wire and crimped on connector on the chassis/frame end, the bolt that connects it to the chassis and any metal that it comes in contact with must be bright and clean of any oxidation, black or burned coloration, etc. Shiny new metal color, then coat with Vaseline or dielectric grease, (or battery terminal anti- corrosion spray AFTER attaching the bolt/washer, etc. to the clean metal). Clean the area with sandpaper and then clean off the sandpaper residue with Brakleen or a similar metal cleaner.
Once the above conditions are met you are ready to troubleshoot other possible avenues of cause/effect. Not until you have verified all this can you effectively solve the problem- and you may get lucky and solve it by doing the above.
Good luck, and DISCONNECT the battery when not in its presence! PLEASE!:2cents:
You have an intermittent short that can and very well might cause a fire when you are nowhere near the tractor.
You are close to the solution but not yet close enough to risk a bad outcome.
Since your tractor is a 98 model it could have enough time on one of the battery cables to render it incapable of handling the load of the electrical system when you go to crank the engine, thus all these weird things happening with buzzing relays, turn signal ghosts etc.
I would verify with someone's assistance, ( have them move the ground cable as you seek out voltage drop(s) ), that the ground to chassis from the battery is good with no intermittent issues. Then same with the positive cable. Just to be sure- you have replaced the battery, yes? With a new one of same CCA etc.?
If there is any question of the ground location of the battery ground wire running to the chassis change the ground wire with the same exact gauge wire and crimped on connector on the chassis/frame end, the bolt that connects it to the chassis and any metal that it comes in contact with must be bright and clean of any oxidation, black or burned coloration, etc. Shiny new metal color, then coat with Vaseline or dielectric grease, (or battery terminal anti- corrosion spray AFTER attaching the bolt/washer, etc. to the clean metal). Clean the area with sandpaper and then clean off the sandpaper residue with Brakleen or a similar metal cleaner.
Once the above conditions are met you are ready to troubleshoot other possible avenues of cause/effect. Not until you have verified all this can you effectively solve the problem- and you may get lucky and solve it by doing the above.
Good luck, and DISCONNECT the battery when not in its presence! PLEASE!:2cents:
Alien
Elite Member
It is an easy thing to buy a new earth strap and add it to what you already have on the tractor. Just run it direct from Battery Neg to an earth on the motor. No need to take the original off.
OP
WhatIsChazaq
Member
This looks like the exact chipper that I have for sale:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/88215-wc-6-power-take-off.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/88215-wc-6-power-take-off.html
OP
WhatIsChazaq
Member
I re-attached the ground strap yesterday. Same issue. The strap looks good, but I think it's wasted on the inside. If I pulled on it just right, the left turn signal would come on again. Weird thing is I can't turn it off once it starts blinking. Any ideas why it would do that?