DK40se HST, Throttle lever seems stuck at idle

caver · Jan 8, 2012

I traded my LB1914 TLB off for a lightly used DK40. I hauled it over to my property today. I got to run this thing for at least an hour. The throttle lever seems stuck when in the idle position. It seemed stiff at the dealer. It still has some warranty but I'm really not in the mood to drag this thing back to Metropolis IL. Also I noticed fresh oil where the remote three point hitch lever attaches to. I took a picture but will upload at some other time.

Observations: I think I will really like the box blade. The quick attach bucket with pallet forks is the catsazz. No more draping chains over the bucket weld-on hooks to lift or move something. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
I'm still trying to get used to the different loader lever position and hydrostat pedals. This tractor seems more stable than my old one with narrower wheel base. I always was nervous on that tractor with off camber movements.

MotorSeven · Jan 9, 2012

I would just trace the linkage on the throttle lever & hit it with some Blaster or Kroil to loosen things up. Probably sticky from that lack of use. While you have the can in your hand go ahead and hit the other linkage under the tractor: brake, HST & range selector.

The three point leak must be a seal which should not be a biggie until you have time to get to it. Just keep an eye on the hyd level.

They are so stable you will end up doing stuff you shouldn't :

That's a full height(over 12') lift of a 32'x12" I-beam...about 2,000 lbs. Note the extra counter weights sitting on the Box Blade......

kco · Jan 9, 2012

I think the throttle is stiff on purpose. My DK35 is the same and it has been mentioned in other threads.

I took my tractor to my neighbour and left it so he could move some dirt. He called by the time I had walked home to ask about the stiff throttle. I think it is that way so it will maintain constant speed despite vibrations.

It is fine for an HST but would be a pain with a gear transmission.

grsthegreat · Jan 9, 2012

Im not sure what you mean by stuck at idle. My throttle lever is very hard to move at any position, and i believe this is so it sdoesnt get moved by the tractor bumping around while operating it.... not that hard to use, so i really dont mind.

caver · Jan 9, 2012

Hard enough that I thought I was going to break something in the throttle linkage.
Is there a parts breakdown for these tractors online?

Below showss area wet with oil on rear 3 point hitch remote lever.

MotorSeven · Jan 9, 2012

If I remember right, take off the plastic Dash housing and there is a locking nut on the lever at it's base that can be loosened. Hang on I'll pull out my shop manual.

MotorSeven · Jan 9, 2012

It must have been mu Ck30 I adjusted because it got loose. I just went thru the shop manual twice and can't find any reference to the throttle:confused2: It has to be similar to the CK though..........

caver · Jan 9, 2012

I found an online parts diagram. It shows the hand throttle going through a cable. My gut tells me that's where the problem is. I may take a cable lube tool over to my farm next time.

Coyote machine · Jan 10, 2012

caver said:
I found an online parts diagram. It shows the hand throttle going through a cable. My gut tells me that's where the problem is. I may take a cable lube tool over to my farm next time.

Sounds about right- I'd lube it and exercise the throttle with the engine OFF.
I find I bump my throttle up, (less PRM) with my fist, it makes it easier, and I pull it down, (more RPM) with my hand wrapped around the handle.

IslandTractor · Jan 10, 2012

I adjust my DK40se throttle by bumping it firmly with the palm of my hand. It is too stiff to accurately move it with steady hand pressure. As others have noted, it seems to be a design "feature". Certainly I've never had a problem with the throttle drifting while working in the field.

derek01 · Jan 13, 2012

I had that problem while mine was under warranty the tech removed the plastic and loosened up something at the throttle since I am not looking at the tractor I can not remember just what he did maybe if you remove the plastic and look in there it will be self explanatory.

ritcheyvs · Jan 14, 2012

Looks like #13 and #14 provide adjustable friction:
OEM Parts

Maybe yours is rusted or needs adjustment. Or maybe the bell-crank is frozen. Should be pretty easy to diagnose, weather permitting.

caver · Jan 15, 2012

Thanks ritcheyvs,

I kept bringing up the wrong drawing and the lever did not look look what I know mine looked like. That's thw right drawing.

Brad

caver · Jan 16, 2012

Well I couldn't get two of the screws loose that hold the upper housing cover on. As shown by arrows, those holes were filled with fresh black silicone. It looks like water has collected down in the holes and rusted the nut inserts. I believe these nuts are molded into the plastic housing.

Original view for those with broadband internet.

Chassis Instrument Cover

I could get cover #3 off but cover #7 has the seized screws #6.
I didn't have an inspection mirror but was able to put my cable lube tool on the cable. I now believe the problem is under cover #7 due to the noises I was hearing.
I suspect the dealer put the silicone in the end of those holes in the picture. The picture was taken after I dug the silicone out. It appeared that some water was still down in the "well". I soaked it out with a towel and it didn't smell like anything petroleum based. I shot it with some PB spray. I will soak again when I go back over because the alternate is to drill the screw heads off.

Coyote machine · Jan 16, 2012

Before drilling out try using a suitable drift - 'punch' to place on top of the screw head, then hit it with a hammer to try to shock the screws threads loose enough to turn with the correct size nutdriver or socket. Or, depending on the depth of the holes try lining them with aluminum foil and leaving the bolt heads exposed and focusing the tip of a propane torch onto the heads long enough to heat them up without burning the cover. Then hit them with the drift/punch hammer. If none of the above works use a titanium bit and drill them out.:thumbsup:
Oh, I'd find a suitable sized rubber plug to fill the holes to keep the same thing from happening in future.
Side note: you'd think they'd put the holes on the bottom and screw up into posts on the top cover preventing this kind of situation?!:confused2:

caver · Jul 22, 2013

UPDATE This problem got worse recently so I tore into this weekend. Turns out those screws where combo screw head/hex head bolts.......don't know how I didn't see that the first time. That little roller is a bit sloppy and dry. Greased all parts up and works smooth as silk now.