Does a JD2320 sound right for me?

   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #1  

craigNC

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Nov 1, 2008
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Hello all --

I will start shopping for a new CUT in the next few weeks, armed with the knowledge I've gained by browsing this forum for some time. Thanks for the resource!:D

I think I have a good idea of what will suit my needs best, but I was hoping to bounce my thoughts off of anybody who would be willing to chime in. I'd rather hear comments and alternate suggestions from actual users of these products first, before I go to the dealer. This is a really long post and I apologize for that, but I wanted to be as complete as possible.

First, my property and expected uses we have rural acreage in eastern (coastal) NC, with about an acre of "proper" grass around the house, and about 6 acres that I had "grrubbed and mulched" about 18 months ago. The land is essentially flat with a few ditches and other mild irregularities, but no slopes of any significance. The property is a former pine plantation so we have lots of pine trees that are fairly closely spaced and some hardwoods mixed in. I have been trying to keep up with the regrowth on this newly cleaned out 6 acres (grass where I'm lucky, but mostly small hardwoods and cane) using a Simplicity field and brush cutter (it's similar to the largest DR cutter), but the combination of slow forward speed, narrow width of cut and stress on my right shoulder from muscling the beast around just doesn't seem to suit a large area like this. This property is about two hours away from our primary home, so my time to work there is limited. I want to keep this area cut (several times per year) to encourage grassy growth over time and simply to keep it looking neat (and to reduce skeeters and snakes!). The "proper" grass I've been cutting with a 10-year old 42-inch Murray garden tractor. The newly cleared area is too irregular for the garden tractor and there is often too much deadfall for a finishing mower (at least I think so). I don't care too much about mowing speed, because the finish mowing is only about an acre right now, and the brush hogging goes at a snail's pace with my walk-behind and on the tractor will always be slow due to steering around trees.

I'll be using the tractor about 90% of the time for mowing and brush hogging, and the other 10% will be moving some dirt around (smoothing out the area that was grubbed and mulched, and fixing areas along the waterfront where storms have excavated some dirt from behind a rock revetment-seawall). After nor'easters and hurricanes I usually have some large rocks to push back into place along the seawall. I don't think l will need to do much of any driveway grading and definitely no snow removal! A backhoe would be useful once in a while but I can't justify the expense upfront until I have a major project.

My main limitation is footprint/weight I don't want to go wider than 4 feet for a rotary cutter or wider than 54 inches for a MMM because of the trees, and I want to be able to use my existing 5x10 trailer and 3,000 pound towing capacity vehicle (I can load up to 2,100 pounds on the trailer) for the rare instances I will need to transport the tractor (to the shop for repairs, and out of the flood zone before hurricanes).

I'll be shopping JD and Kubota. I think that the best fit would be a JD 2320 with a 54 inch OnRamp MMM, a 200CX FEL, an LX4 rotary cutter, and a front mounted blade (for smoothing and spreading dirt, and to push big rocks back into place along the seawall). I'm also very interested in a flail cutter say, 48 inches, like a Caroni 1200 which I might be able to use in all areas of the property instead of the MMM and RC. I really like the idea of a flail cutter to minimize thrown objects there are very few metal surprises left on the property but I do still have some exposed 4-inch rock along the edges of my access roads and some small granite rocks that get tossed up into the woods from the seawall during nor'easters. I plan to use the blade to collect these little rocks but I expect I'll hit some eventually. They kill my lawnmower and brush cutter blades, needless to say.

Here are some specific questions I have
1. Kubota options? Does Kubota have a 54 inch drive-over MMM, or just 60 inch plus? I really want to maximize maneuverability in the "nice" grass area. I didn'tsee a 54 inch Kubota option so that's one reason I've been leaning towards JD. The JD dealer network seems a little more extensive, they're all part of one company here (East Coast Equipment) with about 9 locations in the eastern part of the state, and there is one location about 30-35 minutes from my property so they would probably be better able to help me out for service.
2. Can a 2320 and front blade easily move a large (say between 2-3 feet every dimension) marl or granite rock (not pick it up, just slide it forward along relatively flat hard ground, and the rock is just sitting on the surface, not partially buried), or is another implement more appropriate? If I could otherwise justify a backhoe, that might work great but it's a lot of $$$ for once in a while use. I wouldn't plan to use the FEL for rocks this size.
3. Should I try a Caroni 1200 "in the woods" rather than a RC? I'm leaning toward getting the rotary cutter up front because I'm sure it will be capable of maintaining the areas I have cleared now, it would still do the job if I let an area grow too much between cuttings, and it would be useful along the edge of a small pond (backing up to the edge). As long as the extra length (tractor plus brush hog) isn't too tight between the trees when I need to turn around, I might be satisfied with that setup for the long term anyway.
4. What's my best option for pallet forks? I'd like to be able to use a pallet to carry some stuff around when that would be more convenient than the FEL, and I'm thinking that when a hurricane comes around, I could lift the RC onto a pallet and lift the pallet up on cinderblocks. Maybe the FEL bucket too, because I suspect that the tractor with bucket installed probably won't fit on my 120 inch trailer.

Well, if anybody has read this far, what do you think? Any and all comments or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Craig
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #2  
Craig,

I had the same choice, and went with a Kubota B2620. The factor that drove me to the Kubota was the three speed hydro, and the extra power that the B2620 had over the JD. My main task with the tractor is mowing. I have a large hill that is part of my property that I mow, and the JD would not have been able to perform this task in high (not that you would want to anyways, high is way too fast). The mid range speed on the Kubota is perfect for mowing. The low on the JD was actually slower than my old Craftsman lawn tractor, which defeated the point for me.

Your scenario is very different from mine. Since you're not that concerned about the mowing speed, the additional standard features that the JD has, that the B20 series Kubota does not, like position control, hydraulic PTO clutch, quick attach bucket, and i-match to pick up the mower deck, should probably steer you in JD's direction.

I believe that Kubota does have a 54" deck. The Kubota should also be less expensive. The JD2320 will definitely not fit through a 7' garage door with the Rops up. I believe the Kubota B2320 with Turf tires will actually fit - something to consider. I wish I would have known this before I bought my B2620, I may have still gone with the 26hp machine, but it would have been nice to have the option.

Both machines are excellent. The JD's advantage is the fact that it has more premium features (the hydraulic PTO clutch is a big one for me). The B20 series' advantage is its three speed hydro, better power and faster hydraulics. Enjoy your shopping.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #3  
Instead of answering your questions specifically, I'm going to tell you what I did and you can draw your own conclusions as to how it compares to you. I bought a 2320 and love it. I went with the FEL, 47" front mounted snow blower and the 62"MMM(on Ramp, drive over). I also bought a KK 48' tiller and will be adding a 48" rotary cutter here at some point. I have twelve acres. 3 of that is lawn, 4 of that is field/old pasture, the rest is woods. The previous owner logged the woods and it looks like they did missile testing in there, so we don't venture in there often. The open areas are flat. I am familiar with your neck of the woods. We have had a beach house on the ocean on Topsail Island for 15 years and have been vactioning there since I was a kid. I think you seem to have a good grasp of what you need. Couldn't you buy a rear blade for smoothing dirt, and use the FEL to move the rocks? I have moved/pushed some pretty large rocks with mine. Also the rear blade would be cheaper that the front blade. Just a thought. Good Luck.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #4  
Agree that a rear implement may be more useful than a front blade (will get to be a pain to take off the loader and put the blade on I think)--maybe a box blade for more total weight (counterbalance when using the loader) and a pretty effective smoothing tool!
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #5  
Your app sounds similar to mine. I have 6 acres of a mostly cleared pine plantation and bought the 2320 primarily for the width. Mine's been good to me in the 2 plus years of ownership. I used it to clear some areas and am working on some others around a springhead on the property. I have moved some pretty big rocks with the front end loader (estimated weight between 600-1000+ pounds). One of the largest was the heaviest thing I ever picked up with the 2320 and felt really tippy. I crawled around with the bucket a couple inches from the ground.

I'd skip the front blade and get a box blade. (very handy). I have the Frontier brand which has been good. A box blade will work better than any front blade at leveling areas. To really smooth out an area you would need a rake or better yet a chain drag will work wonders. I have both and say I use the chain drag more, but I use it frequently in the horse paddock and to drag the shared 1/4 mile lane the gets wash boarded. The chain drag really smooth out area well. I mounted a Bumper hitch to the top of the loader and with a ball in it i can pick up the 8 foot drag and drive it all over the property and use the front bucket to drop it in to any tight area that needs smoothed. I can't think of a better way to smooth an area I just cleaned up.

Also, I have the 48 inch Frontier brand rotary cutter with slip clutch and punture proof tire. It's been great. I bang the heck out of it over stumps etc.

I'm sure the Kubota, Massey, New holland and other makes of tractors are all good as well. I beleive most of these tractors are more similar than they are different. Some talk up certain points that many times you'd hardly notice. I will say that Massey has 0% financing for 72 months right now. If I were buying at this moment I would have to give the Massey a strong consideration. Always liked their stuff anyway.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Great advice, guys -- thanks.

Jcaledon - I didn't realize the extent of PTO engagement differences but now I will pay particular attention to that when I look at Kubota ... ROPS shouldn't be a problem; the "house" is a two story metal building with huge garage doors.

JSR LLS, B8FISH, Aesanders -- I need more advice regarding a blade option! What is the downside of a front mounted blade for "rough" leveling, assuming I don't mind taking the FEL off (it will probably be off for most close quarters cutting anyway). Almost all of my "smoothing" right now would be leveling out areas in the woods that are difficult to run mowing equipment over. Would a box blade still be better for an application like that, where I don't need the absolute level of, say, a lawn or driveway? What I'm calling smoothing might better be described as "getting rid of ruts and humps that you don't want to bounce a lawn mower over."

What about the hassle of spinning your head around with a rear mount blade, when you're in the woods (forward to steer, backward to watch your implement)?

Great advice about the FEL capabilities to move rocks. I thought I would damage the bucket or arms! If I don't need to depend on a blade for that, the box scraper might do a lot of what I wanted a blade to do.

How about using the blade to "skim" protruding 4-inch rocks on my access road and to skim little rocks that get washed out of my seawall by storms? Box scraper or simple rear mount blade?
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #7  
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #8  
I would say go for a box blade. There are a few in my neighborhood and seem to do a good job. I also smoothed out my paths/trails by setting my tiller to a shallowest depth and then pulling the roller over them. Not perfect, but a huge improvement. But, hey they are only trails.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #9  
Box blade vs front blade.

Box Blades are heavier and sturdier in design for smaller tractors. The box allows you to collect more material to drag without it escaping the side, where the front blade will tend to dump material out on one side or the other. You can pull or push with a box blade and they also usually have metal SPIKES that are adjustable to dig into and disrupt the earth for better digging (excellent for removing small rock and stumps).

For small tractors like these, I rarely see anyone using a front blade for anything except pushing snow around or pushing feed up to cows at a feed lot. Mostly light materials. Box blades are the earth diggers. And combined with a front end loader I could not see a need for a front blade (unless you have lots of snow to push).
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #10  
Get a 2320 with a 48" box blade (I have the Frontier 2048). I have never heard much good about the front blade since the front end gets pushed around with it on. I have the Frontier pallet forks as well, and highly recommend them. I also would get some of the suitcase weights to hang on the box blade (4 of them fit). That helps it dig in well. I think your trailer and vehicle are not rated high enough to tow it though. I would worry more about the braking ability of a vehicle that can tow only 3000lbs than the trailer capacity which would just barely hold the 2320 with no loader, mower, box blade, etc. on it. With loaded rear tires (which you will want) you will still be overweight. Still, get the 2320. It will do what you want if outfitted correctly.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #11  
CraigNC

Welcome!

I have a 2320 with about 200 hours on it. We have moved some really large rocks with it, both lifting (would only get about 2 inches off the ground), and pushing into position for a retailing wall. No idea how much they weighed but basalt is a pretty dense rock and it overlapped the 53" bucket by quite a bit.

The problem I can see with a front blade is that as good as these little tractors are they are not bulldozers. There is a chance that if you were using a front blade to push dirt and ran into a large rock you could spring the frame of the loader.

Edited to add: I almost forgot; get a toothbar, helps digging efficiency a whole lot and stiffens up the bucket considerably to.

Let us know what you end up with.
Any of these small CUTs will pull a 48" box blade and you won't be taking a chance on springing the loader frame. A landscape rake would also work pretty well with rough leveling and it is quite a bit cheaper.
 
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   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #12  
I think the tractor will be just fine for your intended purposes, however, the trailer isn't going to be big enough. I have a 6x10 trailer and the 2305 with fel just fits and that's with the fel bucket sitting on the tongue of the trailer.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks again everybody -- this is great information.

Looks like a box blade is definitely the way to go. I had thought about that originally, but had the impression that this was really suited to grading driveways, lawns, and basically much more precise work than I would bother with "between the trees." Sure would be handy if I DID need to work on my access road, though! And if it can actually shear through exposed roots and shrub stumps, that's actually EXACTLY what I want!

Thanks for the toothbar suggestion. I can do the rough leveling with the FEL that way and clean up the act with the box blade. Nice! Wouldn't the toothbar also be an advantage when pushing big rocks around too, by stiffening up the bucket?

I was mistaken about my towing capacity -- it's 5,000 after all. 3,000 sounded a little low, I admit! I remember that when I bought the trailer I felt that its stated capacity was within the range of anything I would want to tow, but I remembered the wrong number for the truck. :eek:

About dimensions -- I saw somewhere online that maximum dimensions for the 2320 (tractor only, no implements) were about 51-52 inches wide and 109 long, so I thought that would fit on my 60 x 120 inch trailer (at least without the FEL bucket and maybe without the arms. Could somebody verify those measurements if you get a chance?

Maybe I need a new trailer too:cool::D But where would I keep it? :eek:
 
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   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #14  
You can at least fit it in your trailer by removing the bucket (takes 5 seconds) and setting the loader arms on top of it. Don't go far because your trailer will still be overweight.

The tooth bar is a great addition. It makes the bucket stiffer, protects the cutting edge, and also provides a bit of a shelf to help carry things like rocks, logs, etc. Also provides great leverage on rocks and stumps and anything else buried in the ground (like a bathtub full of bricks I found).

There are different types. I have a Rankin clamp-on style. It has worked flawlessly. Advantage of this type is you don't drill any holes in your bucket. Not that it matters, as most people never remove them once they are installed. It's what my dealer carried and recommended.

Don't forget to have the tires filled with ballast.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #15  
Thanks again everybody -- this is great information.

Looks like a box blade is definitely the way to go. I had thought about that originally, but had the impression that this was really suited to grading driveways, lawns, and basically much more precise work than I would bother with "between the trees." Sure would be handy if I DID need to work on my access road, though! And if it can actually shear through exposed roots and shrub stumps, that's actually EXACTLY what I want!

Thanks for the toothbar suggestion. I can do the rough leveling with the FEL that way and clean up the act with the box blade. Nice! Wouldn't the toothbar also be an advantage when pushing big rocks around too, by stiffening up the bucket?

I was mistaken about my towing capacity -- it's 5,000 after all. 3,000 sounded a little low, I admit! I remember that when I bought the trailer I felt that its stated capacity was within the range of anything I would want to tow, but I remembered the wrong number for the truck. :eek:

About dimensions -- I saw somewhere online that maximum dimensions for the 2320 (tractor only, no implements) were about 51-52 inches wide and 109 long, so I thought that would fit on my 60 x 120 inch trailer (at least without the FEL bucket and maybe without the arms. Could somebody verify those measurements if you get a chance?

Maybe I need a new trailer too:cool::D *But where would I keep it? :eek:
*In the new pole barn.
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
LBrown59 - LOL! I started thinking, OK, maybe 6.8 x 12, tandem axle with brakes for the new trailer and OOPS, that won't fit in the shop. Wife will likely suggest "trade in the 5 x 10 trailer, you don't need two of them ..." Oh well.

ScottK -- Great points about the tooth bar helping with log carrying and leverage on partially buried objects. Adding a toothbar will probably triple what I am able to do with the FEL on my property.

About ballast -- should I use a ballast box or fill the tires -- how badly do I want to fill the tires? I understand the great advantages when you are pulling a full box blade, or pushing the FEL to its limits. But most of the time the tractor will be used for vegetation cutting, and our soil ruts pretty easily. The "grass" is not a fancy lawn by any means, but how much will I tear up grass or poorly vegetated woods soil if the rear tires are filled? In other words, I know I'll like the weight -- a lot --when using the FEL or box blade, but how much will I regret it when I'm cutting? Will I just be able to pull/push less dirt if they aren't filled, or will the performance be totally unsatisfactory? Would a removable ballast box (or using the box blade itself, with or without weights, as ballast) be better for me than a permanent tire approach to weight?

I think I want R4 industrial tires for puncture resistance in the woods?
 
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   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #17  
I'd start with just a concrete filled ballast box - comes off when you don't need the weight. You can fill the tires anytime...you can do this in increments. Ballast box is going to give you more weight (significantly) than filled rear tires.

For your use, I'd go with the R4's.

Scott
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
OK, lets add up some weight here.

JD2320 base weight 1660 lbs

Does anybody know the approximate weight of the following implements?

54D ON Ramp mower
200CX FEL
Frontier BB2048 box blade
Frontier RC1048 4-foot rotary cutter

I'm trying to see how much I could accomodate -- both length and weight-wise -- at one time on a trailer that I could tow with my existing vehicle. This would be to "evacuate" the equipment before a potential flood, not for routine transport ...

Thanks,
Craig
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #19  
figure around 3000 lbs total and you'll need at least a 16 ft trailer
 
   / Does a JD2320 sound right for me? #20  
The box blade is 385 lbs. The 53" bucket is 192 lbs. The loader is about 760 lbs (should double check this one - I'm not at home where the specs are), loaded tires are 400 lbs extra. Tooth bar about 90 lbs. Pallet forks about 380lbs. If you get a quick hitch, that's another 50lbs. Not sure on the mower and cutter, but you're well on your way to 4000lbs. I have very carefully added mine up in the past and it's 3300 lbs with just the tractor/ loader/ bucket/ toothbar/ boxblade/ loaded tires. In an emergency you don't need to take all the implements with you though.

If you finance, get JDs insurance policy - it covers all losses for any reason (except intentional fraud of course) and it's cheap. Generally it's only available while financing with JD, although Sentry (the carrier) is trying to expand that, state by state.

If you're getting the box blade, then use that for ballast and you can add the 4 suitcase weights (42 lbs each) and then can fill the tires if needed. I think you will want the loaded tires also once you try lifting heavy stuff with pallet forks or leveraging things out with the tooth bar. I don't use mine for mowing, but I do drive on the formal lawn fully loaded without damaging it (not while it's soaking wet though). Only drive on it in 2WD. The R4 tires are so wide they make no more impact/indentation than my much smaller JD LT180 mower.
 

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