Does anyone have experience with concrete paint?

[JustGary]

Ouch.

I helped install an epoxy floor in a showroom about 20 years ago. It really came out nice, but they occasionally do touch-up on high traffic areas.

We mixed the paint in a low-sided wheelbarrow and then dipped our rollers and started painting. It was big enough that a half dozen guys could reach it and keep painting. The wheelbarrow lasted many years out in the weather after that.

Be sure to use adequate ventilation, because the fumes from the epoxy will eventually get to you. If the job seems like it's getting easier and more fun as you go, step outside for a breather. It's not quite that fun.

If you have concerns about the slick finish, sprinkle a bit of clean sand on the floor while the first coat is still wet. Try a kitchen sifter if the sand is small enough, but practice somewhere first to get good at putting out a little sand without making piles anywhere. A coffee can with an appropriate screen bottom would work also. Just tap the side of the can to dispense a little. The trick is in using very little sand. The second coat of paint will seal it in, and you'll still be able to wipe up spills.

- Just Gary

 

[Farwell]

JCS,
Not sure who makes it, but there is a cement product made for your problem. It is a self leveling coat that adheres to the cement and is approximately 1/2 inch thick, or as thick as you need, if I remember correctly. I saw the product at a home show in Mid Michigan a couple of years ago. Research it on the Internet before you do any painting. Do not know the cost either. There are paint coats out there that will adhere to cement, but it has been my experience that they will eventually wear through from frequent use.
Farwell

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Here's an idea: have the Bobsey Twins' insurance pay for jackhammering your floor out and having a new one installed by someone who won't fall asleep halfway through the job. Assuming they're insured, I'd be on the phone to their agent, their insurance company, my homeowner's insurance agent and my lawyer, in no particular order.

There's no way you should be going through all this because of their obvious screw-up. And I'd like to see you get a brand-new overhead door while you're at it.

 

[CAMinTX]

Epoxy paint is probably your best bet. I would like to suggest that you contact a "real" paint store. Sherwin-Williams, for instance, specializes in industrial coatings. It would be a good idea to contact you closest SW store and run it by those guys. It would also be a good idea to ask to speak with the manager or assistant manager as they will have the best product knowledge.

 

[Cormac]

Sherwin Williams is the largest paint manufacturer in the world. They seem to have a quality product for everything. They have a product called H & C concrete stain. While a stain won't provide the "hide" that you are looking for, a nice thing about stains versus paints is that stains do not peel. For the ultimate in durability and coverage (and price) some are using Polyureas (bedliner) to cover flooring. I would guess that Polyureas will easily run $3-$5 per square foot or more though. There is another product that may be appropriate called Skid Proof by Seal Krete. It comes in a 5 gallon bucket that contains 4 gallons. You add a gallon of paint in your favorite color and mix. Seal Krete is out of Florida, does not allow tire marks, and you can get it at Sherwin William, ICI, and other major paint chains. BTW, other than the stain you may have to prep the floor via acid wash or shot blasting to get adhesion with most coatings. Finally, another option could be a deck coating like those used around pools, just don't apply the texture coat and knockdown, just the skim coat.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Here's a link to a site that contains just about everything one might ever need to know about epoxy products, including floor coatings. The site is a little disorganized, but there's a LOT here, including a link to a very informative Rustoleum page. Epoxy Products.com

I really can't concur with some of the "negatives" that have been expressed about epoxy floor coatings. Mine is not slippery, will probably NEVER peel, and after 4 years shows virtually no sign of wear. Epoxy is very tough stuff, that's one reason it costs so much. And if I want to recoat it ten years from now, I won't have to do very much prep work to have it looking brand new.

Sounds to me as if you don't want any reminders of this fiasco down the road, so a nice epoxy finish might be just the ticket.

Good luck, John D.

 

[BigAl]

I had an old building that was rebuilt for my shop . The concrete floor was a mess. Scarred up ,rough and uneven . After painting it for years and always having to redo it, I went to Home Depot and bought a thin set material to overlay the old slab .It is made to do just that . I pressured washed the old paint and removed whatever would come off . I applied the thin set as directed and have not had any problems since . No flaking,cracking or peeling . I went over paint in places too . It has been 6 years and the stuff is still perfect . Cost to do about 700 sq. feet was $125 plus my time . It varies 1/8" to 1/2 " thick where it filled in my low spots . It looks just like a fine finish concrete slab that no one can tell the difference .It even filled the old cracks and never cracked .

 

[JCS_in_KY]

I will probably go the epoxy route. Having the guy we hired pay to have the slab removed and replaced would be ideal and I considered trying to go that route that but the way he's setup he's really got no assets to go after, no bank account from what we can tell and it would probably all be a big waste of time for us. It's a big mess and I think we are better off making the best of a bad situation and moving on. We just need to get the building finished up so we can use it. It was disappointing because he came highly recommended by the building company (Kentucky Steel Truss Inc.) and they use him to sell their buildings. Once we can get the building fixed up it will be a nice building but to get to that point we need to fix these slab issues, take care of the door problems, fix some crooked windows that also leak, and a bunch of other things like that. I'm going to see if I can find a Sherwin Williams dealer near me and see what they've got for paint. Around here lots of people use Porter Paint but it doesn't look like they make an epoxy concrete finish.

 

[cmuncy]

If you are withholding the last payment for the labor for installation then I would NOT do any kind of repairs to the building, including leveling/grinding/painting the slab.

Check your local laws but I believe that given notice, the company that provided the labor has a given amount of tiem to make amends, which, after that, you would probably have to take them to small claims court.

Also, here in Texas, most steel building manufacturers will only provide a list of conttractors that will erect the building, not specify a particular company. Limits liability. So if your metal manufacturer did specificly mention the contactor, they might be held liable as well.

I just wanted to bring this issue up to make sure you don't get stuck.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Good points cmuncy, I sure don't want to see John get stuck either. John, did these guys have liability insurance? Even if they have few assets, their insurance company is another story.

Here in CT, small claims is limited to amounts of $3,500 if memory serves, but the system works well.

Also, I'm wondering just how bad the floor really is? When I first read your post it conjured up quite a mental image. Have you talked or met with the guy who would be doing the smoothing/grinding? If so, what's his "take" on it? Piece of cake, or rip this mess up and start over?