Does anyone know a special trick to get the wheel free from hub (F250 SD) ?

[ultrarunner]

Must not happen in California... never heard of it and I grew up around the auto business.

My cousing had a mixture of acid or something called rustmort that he would brush on around the hub... and if worse came to worse he said he would the wheel and hub together and bring it over the the shop press.

 

[Coyote machine]

Copper anti-seize is the best. Could you gently run the front tire into a curb at the necessary angle to force the front wheel, for example, to want to move away from the curb, thus freeing it from the hub?

 

[Egon]

Anyone try a blunt air hammer tool on the rim?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I thought you guys were talking about the brake drum, not the tire rim. I never had a problem getting a tire off, but getting off a brake drum sometimes is a bear. Glad they went to 4 wheel disc brakes on most autos now.

 

[oosik]

I had a wheel STICK big time on a tandem axle utility trailer. I have a wheel puller and I used it and the wheel still would not budge. Then came the magic trick - a small propane torch to heat the entire wheel around the wheel nuts. The wheel really didn't get that hot - you could still hold your hand on the heated area - and all of a sudden there was a very loud "POP". The wheel broke loose from the drum. I have subsequently taken all four wheels off and spread a thin layer Permatex copper based anti-seize on the wheel/drum in all areas where there is metal to metal contact. The wheels simply drop off now when rotating or repairing.

 

[SPIKER]

Been there done that, usually the 4x4 against the rim from other side works if the sledge on back/front side dont knock it loose. The Driving it with loose lug nuts also works real well but if flat and tire is OK just no air it will often tear up the tire. Sounds like there is a blown/rusted brake line with loss of fluid and no peddle. On many (not familiar w newer F250s) you can still bleed the fronts with tire on, messy tho and if it needs heat to break free the bleeder then ya might be boned. I have a couple small hand held butane torches and pencil butane torches too. they work great for bleeder screws!

I like the JACK idea have not tried that one yet

Mark

 

[Tollster]

Back off the brake adjusters inside the drum with a screwdriver from the backside, if there is scoring on the drum, this will help.

Now, look at the drum, and put the correctly size threaded screws into those holes you see from the font side, slowly tightening evenly, most times there are two bolt holes, and using a dead blow on the drum to unseat it further as you go.

These are how mm AMC jeep is, so hoping your ford may be the same..

 

[slowzuki]

Don't worry, the little parking drum on the rear doesn't hold the disc on much at all, we are talking rims. My 2001 F350 is a pain, I have a 30 lb chunk of hardwood with a handle to make a giant sledge, just wail back and forth on the tire and rim until it pops loose. Sometimes takes 30-40 full swing blows.

Getting the discs off is fun too, had the front ones off recently after being on for a year, big regular sledge from backside, full swings, thought I was going to break the disc. Took 30 mins of beating on it, rotating a bit, beating, rotate beat.

Sure makes the japanese stuff with a jacking screw look good.

Back off the brake adjusters inside the drum with a screwdriver from the backside, if there is scoring on the drum, this will help.

Now, look at the drum, and put the correctly size threaded screws into those holes you see from the font side, slowly tightening evenly, most times there are two bolt holes, and using a dead blow on the drum to unseat it further as you go.

These are how mm AMC jeep is, so hoping your ford may be the same..

 

[the old grind]

I've warped my share of rims & drums on Chev K2500s with 8-lug hubs. One was an '82 (rear drums) the other F rims on my current '99 when the calipers had frozen onto their sliders and had pads grinding the discs at 18K mi. (A common issue with '99s) Hammering and prying warped the '82's drum enough that cylinder oscillation caused air to enter the rear lines and would need bled daily till I replaced the drums.

Driving with the lugs loose (1-2 turns is plenty) took a few days (short trips) on the '99 front rims before I heard the sound of 'em finally coming loose. It's easier on bearings than pounding away. Any anti-sieze will work for studs as will grease, which is cheaper to use on mating faces and still keeps water out. Either will only need touched up occasionally when rotating wheels or inspecting brakes.

Flex designed into wheel centers can absorb hammer blows. Don't think for a minute that you can't bend something out of whack when you have to use excessive force to overcome rusty s__. tog

 

[ultrarunner]

I've got a 62 bug that was given to me and stored in a carport for years.

Left rear is frozen solid... used the BX23 Kubota to move this weekend.

Imagine the brake lining has bonded to the drum ;-(