Doorman’s next big adventure

   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#61  
NEVER EVER use wire in concrete. For it to work, it has to be pulled into the concrete while pouring it. Usually they will pull it up when they first get started for pictures, but as soon as the work gets serious, nobody has time for posing for fake pictures. As soon as they pull it up, they walk on it and push it back down again. There are few absolutes in construction, but one of them is that is wire is used on a slab, it's on the bottom of the slab, not doing anything. The reason they like to use wire is that it's cheaper, faster and easy for them. If you are doing something small, and you do not have to walk in the concrete while spreading and leveling it, and the wire is in the middle or bottom third of the slab, then it's great. Since this is IMPOSSIBLE to do when walking on it, any contractor that wants to use wire instead of rebar should be fired immediately.

Same thing if they use rebar, but don't use chairs. If chairs are not used to support the rebar during the pour, the rebar will end up at the bottom of the slab and be worthless. Hack contractors don't like to use chairs because they trip over the rebar, and it makes it harder for them to spread the concrete.

Fiber is a fun gimmick that doesn't really accomplish much. Sometimes the fibers stick out of the slab when it's done and that can be really annoying. If used with rebar, and they mix the mud with too much water, fiber can help hide some of the cracking.

Concrete cracks because of too much water. When the excess water evaporates, a void is created in the slab, and it cracks. When pouring, the concrete should not flow smoothly, or be like soup. It should be like mashed potatoes. You want it to pile up, not spread out. When mixed properly, it's a lot more work for the crew to spread it. When water is added, it gets easier for them to spread it. Some will just keep adding water to the point of making soup.

Excellent advice sir.


We just poured 4.5yds last weekend at the farm.
Some in the barn and some for my bridge abutment/approach.

It was a bit stiff…
I told my boy and his friend…..don’t shovel it just push it once the pile gets a bit high.

I was on one end of the screed…….concrete is for young men!


No water added at all for our pour.
The barn took a bit to set up for finishing.

The bridge concrete was in the shade but had a nice breeze……..we finished it first even though it was poured last
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure #62  
Motion going forward on the barn build is slow…….
Talked to contractor last week and he’s supposed to get the forms/stone/grading done this week.
3 of his guys quit…..weather has been wet…..all a bit frustrating.

After forms are up I do underslab work next weekend
Electrical pipes
DWV for bathroom/kitchen/laundry.
If he pours the following week things will move forward
Water/septic trench
150’ gravel driveway
Electric pole/meter/disconnect

These tasks require the builder to do his part first……fingers crossed!!
Guys quiting when there's hard work to be done seems to be getting more and more common these days. A buddy used to have a crew of 20 or so, now he's down to a handful. Since Covid, few want to work hard, and those who do flock to the best-paying jobs.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Forms finally set by the builder!!!

Doing our under slab DWV and electric tomorrow.
He will fill with stone and hopefully pour concrete week after the holiday.

Might finish decking the bridge and load test Sunday morning……

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   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Under slab electric-done
2” pipe for incoming service
3/4” pipe for runs around the building
We are going to install a 24x4x4 wiring trough under the 200amp service to consolidate the pipe work.
A 12x12x4 box will go in the wall where we have 6 pipes coming up out of the slab from the panel. These are most of the high amp circuits in the kitchen/bath/laundry/mech stuff

DWV-all cut and positioned. We will glue and backfill this morning.
Still have to put a 2” chase for the incoming water line. It’ll poke out 36” below grade out of the slab in the mech/laundry room.


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   / Doorman’s next big adventure #65  
I always enjoy this part of the build. It's fun measuring out where everything needs to come up through the slab, and then putting everything in place.

I like to use the more expensive pipe insulation around my water lines that come through the slab. They sell two types at the box stores, the denser type seems to work better in my opinion. I've worked on houses that wrapped the copper pipes coming up through the slab with tape that had worn through and led to the pipe leaking. With PEX, it's even more important to protect it from the slab with the good foam insulation.

When I built my Parents house, my did didn't want to use purple primer on the drain lines. He thought it was just for older pipes that where dirty. He didn't realize that the purple primer was actually a conditioner that softens the PVC so the clear cement could melt the joints together. Here, it's code to use the purple primer. If they don't see it, you don't pass. It's cheap and easy to do, but he was kind of stubborn about it until I forced the issue with him.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#66  
I always enjoy this part of the build. It's fun measuring out where everything needs to come up through the slab, and then putting everything in place.

I like to use the more expensive pipe insulation around my water lines that come through the slab. They sell two types at the box stores, the denser type seems to work better in my opinion. I've worked on houses that wrapped the copper pipes coming up through the slab with tape that had worn through and led to the pipe leaking. With PEX, it's even more important to protect it from the slab with the good foam insulation.

When I built my Parents house, my did didn't want to use purple primer on the drain lines. He thought it was just for older pipes that where dirty. He didn't realize that the purple primer was actually a conditioner that softens the PVC so the clear cement could melt the joints together. Here, it's code to use the purple primer. If they don't see it, you don't pass. It's cheap and easy to do, but he was kind of stubborn about it until I forced the issue with him.
We set a a 2” emt elbow 36” down as a chase for the 1” pex water line.

No skimping on primer on this job!
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Slab is poured!!!
Crew showed up about 6:30
First truck about 7:10
They were off site about 1:30

15yds approx
Wet set post bases in
Couple pieces of rebar around the perimeter

Power troweled for a nice smooth finish

The front porch is most likely gonna be one step down
There’d be a lot of fill of it was level or an inch down…..knee high approx. porch will be poured later
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   / Doorman’s next big adventure #68  
Your slab looks really nice!!! I'm surprised by all the utilities you have coming through it for just a small living area.
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#69  
Your slab looks really nice!!! I'm surprised by all the utilities you have coming through it for just a small living area.
We wanted to run most feeds under the slab. 200amp service.
Trying to keep the ceiling area in the “house” free of pipes
 
   / Doorman’s next big adventure
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Walls going up!!!

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Spoke to the builder this afternoon…….
Trusses ordered and arriving early next week
Wife will email colors tonite for metal 7-10 days for leadtime
Added a window (3x4)
Moved a window
Eliminated wainscoting-boss lady wants solid color walls

Asked builder if he’d be done by July 6-7 so I can schedule spray insulation contractor…..he said yes.

Septic contractor has all his supplies on hand…..hoping he can start before wheat harvest! Supposed to start harvest June 25

Moving forward!!
 
 
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