draw bar

[schmism]

so i finnally got around to getting a draw bar for the 3 pt and picked up the premade stablizer dohicky that is suppose to slip over the end of one of the 3pt arms.....

all was good till i went to put the stablizer thingie dodad on and hmmmmmm ive got the delux 3pt arms.... and the widget wont fit over the stinkin arm....

now what?

 

[CharlieTR]

I am not sure but I think TSC sells something that is just flat steel bent to attach from the drawbar to top link. Two of these and you have a triangle.
Or just make a connection to top link. I just use my drawbar without anything. A few months ago there was a thread and the guys all said you must have something to keep it from turning. I never have, but I can't lift with the 3pt. I have to lower the trailer jack. Once it's on good it never comes off.

 

[roxynoodle]

Know anyone who can make one? If you have a local vocational school that has a machine trades program, they may make it for cost of stock material. Show them what it needs to look like and give them the dimensions you need it to be.

 

[Willl]

"stablizer thingie dodad"

That's going to require a picture.

 

[kwolfe]

Try this link. I bought one of these a few months ago and it has work great for me. It comes with two bent pieces of 3/8 steel, the spacer for the top link and the bolts to hold it to the drawbar. For $40, it was a pretty cheap solution compared to others I have seen.

Stevens Tractor

 

[Soundguy]

Try this link. I bought one of these a few months ago and it has work great for me. It comes with two bent pieces of 3/8 steel, the spacer for the top link and the bolts to hold it to the drawbar. For $40, it was a pretty cheap solution compared to others I have seen.

Stevens Tractor

You most likely have a 3pt drawbar anti spin bracket.

Uour optins, if you have the deluxe arm ends are to instead use an aframe kit on your drawbar.. ( cost is 20$ from CNH ) or weld up your own anti spin device.

I made a couple with scrap iron and a few welding rods.

A 1' piece of 1/2" allthread and a handfull of nuts and washers also works.
run a nut up the thread till you have enough thread to protrude thru the drawbar and then attach another nut. Use washers and lockwashers if needed.. Run another nut down the top of the thread enough to slide the toplink swivel on ( you have to unscrew the toplink swivel so that its hole is vertical ).. then slide toplink on, add appropriate washers and nut.

Threaded post from toplink to drawbar prevents drawbar from rotating.

Soundguy

 

[schmism]

i suppose i could bend something up out of some 2" flat stock

 

[RalphVa]

Here's mine. I bought 2 pieces of flat steel from TSC. A friend of mine bent it in his machine shop.

The holes above the top link are for another top link to go back to my soil ripper, to adjust its tilt. Not needed otherwise.

Ralph

 

[Soundguy]

The 20$ CNH aframe kit was pretty much similar to waht you made.
( good job by the way )

Soundguy

 

[lopezian]

I'm sorry to be so naive, but I am a relatively new tractor owner so there is a lot I don't know.

Why do you need a 3-pt draw bar when you have a perfectly servicable frame-mounted drawbar on your tractor? Is the advantage that you can raise and lower the bar? Your 3-pt bar is wide with lots of positions, but I can't imagine a sitation where I would want to offset the hitch from dead center.

-csw