draw bar

[kubotabilly]

Mike,
I see your point, but I really never had that problem. Perhaps it's the trailer that I have. There's alot of tongue weight on the 3-point.

Bill

 

[RalphVa]

Rozett,

My ripper was given to me by the owner of a JD M, which is about a 1950ish 18 hp 2wd tractor that's enormous in size compared to my present day 4010. He got the ripper back when he bought the tractor new.

Nearest thing I've seen to them nowadays is a "cultivator". You can buy them from TSC or Agrisupply (http://www.agri-supply.com/).

I just use the frame for my disc hillers now, as I don't till the rows after making them. Tilling tears up the underground stuff made by the microrhizomes.

Here's a pic of my disc hillers.

Ralph

 

[Soundguy]

Bill I really like the looks of a 3 point hitch rig like yours. The only problem that I see is that we move a lot of materials from point A to point B on the property using the trailer. When you step on the backside of the trailer the 3 point allows the front to raise and the back of the trailer to hit the ground. God help you is someones foot is under the back of the trailer when that happens, I found that out the hard way.

A receiver mounted on the draw-bar prevents the pain.

An adjustable stay rod on the 3pt drawbar would also prevent this.

Soundguy

 

[flusher]

I'm sorry to be so naive, but I am a relatively new tractor owner so there is a lot I don't know.

Why do you need a 3-pt draw bar when you have a perfectly servicable frame-mounted drawbar on your tractor? Is the advantage that you can raise and lower the bar? Your 3-pt bar is wide with lots of positions, but I can't imagine a sitation where I would want to offset the hitch from dead center.

-csw

I have an MF-135 diesel with rear wheel track that's 6'10" wide. When I pull a 6-ft wide drag disk harrow I want to offset the hitch point at least 12" so the disk covers one of the wheel tracks.

Why not get a wider drag disk? Horsepower, or rather, lack of it. Only have about 33 drawbar hp.

 

[schmism]

thanks for all the suggestions....

although the main use for it at the moment is hooking misc attachments 2. not just a hitch for a trailer ball. Pluss i perfer to use the FEL for moving the trailers as its a lot easyer to move them that way i think.

Didnt fool with it much this weekend as projects shifted focus (you know how it is)...

ill keep you updated on what i wind up with (although i like the angle iron side attachment idea...

 

[ruscomredneck]

Another thought on the angle iron idea.What if one got the appropriate width of channel steel(3 1/2" ?) & drilled a hole in the middle the size of the draw bar ,slide it on the drawbar & weld it from the back???

 

[Soundguy]

I'd think it would be similar to the angle that was welded to the drawbar.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Here are a couple shots of drawbar locks I've buzzed together over the years.

Soundguy

 

[Champy]

Newbie question - What is causing the draw bar to rotate in the first place?

I am picturing attaching a drag implement using a drop pin that goes through the the implement's tongue and draw bar together.... this should not allow the draw bar to turn - right? Perhaps when using a ball type hitch the ball may turn in the trailer's socket???

 

[jdgreg]

Here's a pic of what I did to my draw bar, just a few scraps of metal and done. I dont pull much trailer wise, but really use it to secure my sprayer, that's what the 2 square pieces of metal are for on each ends.

 

[Soundguy]

Yes.. rotating with a trailer ball..

Clevis hitching won't rotate.. etc..

Soundguy

Newbie question - What is causing the draw bar to rotate in the first place?

I am picturing attaching a drag implement using a drop pin that goes through the the implement's tongue and draw bar together.... this should not allow the draw bar to turn - right? Perhaps when using a ball type hitch the ball may turn in the trailer's socket???