Dressing Up A Scratched Cylinder Rod???

[2manyrocks]

I'm not too clear---is this repair going to be made at a customer's place or at your place? If you run into trouble fixing it at your place, you can at least button it up where you are and start back on it at your convenience more easily at your place than at the customer's.

Get some empty five gallon buckets or something to catch that oil and some plastic sheet or something clean you can lay that rod assembly on when you get it out. Somebody else may have a better idea about draining as much oil as can be before you pull that rod, but the only way I know is to disconnect the hoses and try to manually pump the rod. Then the oil is going to shoot everywhere. I guess if you had some other hoses to connect to the ports, then you could have better control where the oil ends up.

One more thought. Get some plugs and caps you can use to plug up your lines and the cylinder when you take it off. Then you can take the cylinder someplace to your convenience to work on without it leaking everywhere in the process.

 

[Dougster]

I'm not too clear---is this repair going to be made at a customer's place or at your place? If you run into trouble fixing it at your place, you can at least button it up where you are and start back on it at your convenience more easily at your place than at the customer's.

Get some empty five gallon buckets or something to catch that oil and some plastic sheet or something clean you can lay that rod assembly on when you get it out. Somebody else may have a better idea about draining as much oil as can be before you pull that rod, but the only way I know is to disconnect the hoses and try to manually pump the rod. Then the oil is going to shoot everywhere. I guess if you had some other hoses to connect to the ports, then you could have better control where the oil ends up.

One more thought. Get some plugs and caps you can use to plug up your lines and the cylinder when you take it off. Then you can take the cylinder someplace to your convenience to work on without it leaking everywhere in the process.

I'll be doing the repair at my house. I've ordered the spanner wrench for cylinder gland removal and the air hammer flat-head bits (for dipper link removal to release the rod end) are already here. I do not intend to disconnect or physically remove the cylinder tube/barrel from the backhoe unless it proves necessary.

The backhoe itself will be disconnected/isolated from the tractor hydraulic supply and fully depressurized. I'm sure there will be a nice oily mess to deal with, but the driveway is only dirt and what I don't catch in buckets will just serve to keep the dust down.

After this is all over, I intend to change the hydraulic/tranny oil and filter anyway. I suspect that the filter is already a clogged mess given the problems I had with defective grapple cylinders.

Dougster

 

[john_bud]

All I ask is that you consider the remote jobsite issue with my "homeowner" clients typically looking on. What is a laughable nuisance oil leak at home is a catastrophic Exxon Valdez relived to these "environmentally conscious" folks. Add to that the need to stop and repair (as I had to do recently on an FEL control valve leak) and there goes the schedule... as well as the client's confidence in your work.


Dougster

NOPE! I simply can't wrap my practical midwest brain around the eco conscious (but often otherwise un-conscience) folks you deal with!

If you do mount that new rod in a vice, be dern sure it is mounted in a way that it won't slip out, fall or have the rod dimpled by the jaws. When the torque is being applied, especially in getting the nut off, the rod can very easily rattle out and fall. Dangerous to your toes and the rod. That would be a $250 boo-boo. You can dress the dents out with a fine file - don't ask how I know that.... This step is far harder to do than you might think. I make wood v blocks that rest the rod horizontally on the work bench when in the vice, so they rod can't fall. Strapped down with the ratchet straps, too!

If you have a nyloc or similar lock nut, you don't need loctite. Even though there is supposed to be a locktite for use AFTER torquing, you won't need it. I don't agree with the comment about re-using the nuts. Normally, they are one time used and replaced.

And Wayne is also correct about the air pressure drop when you pull the trigger. I have to pump up the pressure to 140+ to get 90 in use!

 

[Dougster]

NOPE! I simply can't wrap my practical midwest brain around the eco conscious (but often otherwise un-conscience) folks you deal with!

My point is that this is the reality of working on other people's property for money. These smallish homeowner pet projects can be very touchy deals. They want and expect the work to be done right and quickly with no surprises. The market around here is too competitive to allow me to run patched up or leaking equipment.

If you do mount that new rod in a vice, be dern sure it is mounted in a way that it won't slip out, fall or have the rod dimpled by the jaws. When the torque is being applied, especially in getting the nut off, the rod can very easily rattle out and fall. Dangerous to your toes and the rod. That would be a $250 boo-boo. You can dress the dents out with a fine file - don't ask how I know that... This step is far harder to do than you might think. I make wood v blocks that rest the rod horizontally on the work bench when in the vice, so they rod can't fall. Strapped down with the ratchet straps, too!

If you have a nyloc or similar lock nut, you don't need loctite. Even though there is supposed to be a locktite for use AFTER torquing, you won't need it. I don't agree with the comment about re-using the nuts. Normally, they are one time used and replaced.

And Wayne is also correct about the air pressure drop when you pull the trigger. I have to pump up the pressure to 140+ to get 90 in use!

Don't know what that nut would cost. It's funny how the little nuisance stuff from Bradco costs more (relatively speaking) than the big stuff. The Mahindra dealer said that nut could come off and go back on at least 3-5 times without the need to "restore" the crown... or, I suppose, replace the nut with a new one. If it appears worn or stripped when I remove it, I can always order a new one.

My 3/4" air wrench is rated at 1,000 ft-lbs max @ 90 PSIG and 6.1 SCFM. My main compressor is good for 120 PSIG (135 max) and I have a fairly large "point-of-use" accumulator tank available if needed. So far, it has never been needed. If this 3/4" monster wrench cannot loosen and re-torque that cylinder rod nut, I'll eat my hat!

Then I'll go out the next morning and get me a one-incher and a new hat!!!

Dougster

 

[SPYDERLK]

[[Doug, no need for loc-tite in this application. Anyway, do me a favor, when you do tighten this nut, touch it and tell me how hot it is from the friction. And what does heat do to loctite? With these locking nuts, if they are going to come loose, loc-tite is not going to do a dam thing to stop it.]]

Do you want a real nice, sturdy, cheap, and easy to make vise mount? Get a piece of steel, 2" o.d. square tube, 1/4" thick. Mount the vise to this, stick the tube in your class 3 receiver. Instant stable vise for under $20.

[[Do not, DO not, DO NOT use an impact wrench on the nut. This is also a lock-nut, which changes everything. First of all, to say that "My impact says it develops 1000 ft. lbs. of torque so I can torque stuff to 1000 ft. lbs." is just ignorant. If your impact says 1000 ft. lbs., the average guy is lucky if he's getting 400 out of it. These impacts are rated in test lab conditions. With 1/2" air lines and screw type compressors with an almost unlimited supply of constant 120 p.s.i. air. Did you ever put an air gauge right at your gun and see the pressure drop when you pull the trigger? You would be shocked. Try it.]]

Don't get too stuck on getting this exact torque. Not only me, a small shop, but also the large shops I know and deal with, do not have anything to set the exact torque with. There are excavator cylinders which get tightened to over 10,000 ft. lbs. Is there a torque wrench for that? of course not. There are ways to get it close, but none of us are going to spend $20,000 on the equipment to do it.

Good information deserving of informed consideration. I think that informed consideration will allow one to effectively employ the valuable [tools] that you sound an alarm about.
larry

 

[tlbuser]

It would be great to find a large vise that could somehow be effectively clamped onto the massive CAT skidsteer bucket or even my 78" heavy-duty KMW bucket.
Dougster

Weld on a 2" receiver, then you can use whatever insert you want.

Do you want a real nice, sturdy, cheap, and easy to make vise mount? Get a piece of steel, 2" o.d. square tube, 1/4" thick. Mount the vise to this, stick the tube in your class 3 receiver. Instant stable vise for under $20.

As long as Doug's wrench doesn't slip and ........ Yea, he better get it away from the truck

 

[Wayne County Hose]

My 3/4" air wrench is rated at 1,000 ft-lbs max @ 90 PSIG and 6.1 SCFM. My main compressor is good for 120 PSIG (135 max) and I have a fairly large "point-of-use" accumulator tank available if needed. So far, it has never been needed. If this 3/4" monster wrench cannot loosen and re-torque that cylinder rod nut, I'll eat my hat!

Then I'll go out the next morning and get me a one-incher and a new hat!!!

Dougster

I'll bet you have a 1/4" connector on your air gun, which has an i.d. of .2". I hope that your air gun does take this nut off for you Doug, but if it doesn't, let me know how that hat tastes. Do yourself a favor, take the air q.d. off and plumb the hose directly into the airgun. This will give you much more flow. Even though pb-n-j sandwiches is not a healthy diet alone, I would hate to see you supplement it with a dirty old hat.

 

[MrJimi]

I have a 1" impact gun and it will require a half inch hose minimum and I have a picture of a 2" receiver vise mount I made a while back, very easy to do and my truck will not move when I pull or push on something and it's not on my floor eating space when not in use.. Bench grinder mount next
Jim

 

[Dougster]

Weld on a 2" receiver, then you can use whatever insert you want.

Fact is that I've already got an extra-beefy 2" clamp-on receiver for the buckets that I use with custom fitted shims for a no-slip fit. I use this to move my two trailers around the yard and jobsites. I can even lower the bucket to the ground for an even more secure, temporary "vise mounting" situation... but I think I'd still prefer to use the truck's new Putnam XDR Class V receiver... It ain't goin' nowhere!!!

As long as Doug's wrench doesn't slip and ........ Yea, he better get it away from the truck

Okay for you wise guy!!!

Dougster

 

[Dougster]

I'll bet you have a 1/4" connector on your air gun, which has an i.d. of .2". I hope that your air gun does take this nut off for you Doug, but if it doesn't, let me know how that hat tastes. Do yourself a favor, take the air q.d. off and plumb the hose directly into the airgun. This will give you much more flow. Even though pb-n-j sandwiches is not a healthy diet alone, I would hate to see you supplement it with a dirty old hat.

Yes, it's 1/4"... but that's the manufacturer's coupling recommendation. I don't see that as a problem at 6.1 SCFM @ 90 PSIG. According to Parker, even for the cheapest, highest restriction 1/4" pneumatic couplings on the market, the pressure drop for nominal 100 PSIG compressed air at 10.0 SCFM (i.e., almost double the 6.1 SCFM which this air wrench consumes) is a mere 1.0 PSI... hardly anything to worry about.

Trust me, this 3/4" is a brute and I have full confidence in its ability to break loose that nut. But if for any reason it isn't enough, I have no problem ordering up the 1" version and even a second air compressor if needed. Been shopping for a second air compressor anyway... purely for greater flexibility & convenience... and this would be a good excuse to finally go for it!

Dougster