metalbender
Veteran Member
Small bits are cheap enough, even good ones. Frustration and time wasted trying to sharpen them, only to get poor performance. Life's too short.
drill bit sharpening
- Thread starter jeepcj7
- Start date
- Views: 3883
Industrial Toys
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 16,742
- Location
- Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota R510 Wheel Loader + Cab and backhoe, JD 6200 Open Station, Cushman 6150, 4x4, ten foot 56 hp Kubota diesel hydraulic wing mower, Steiner 430 Diesel Max, Kawasaki Diesel Mule, JD 4x2 Electric Gator
I seem to drill holes endlessly. I can't just justify buying new bits. BUT, the times wasted trying this bit and that out of a box of hundreds mostly dull bits is frustrating.
Funny, how the ODD industrial black bit, given to me by friends outlast any of the INDEX type sets I have bought, by a huge margin.
Funny, how the ODD industrial black bit, given to me by friends outlast any of the INDEX type sets I have bought, by a huge margin.
Fuddy1952
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2018
- Messages
- 3,191
- Location
- South Central Virginia
- Tractor
- 1973 Economy and 2018 John Deere 3038E
My 2 cents is older I get I just need more light and good headband magnifier. I've always used a grinding wheel, small one for small bits, getting the angle and taper right.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Well as much as possible I like to stay with well known brands such as Dormer.
That being said I also eyeball sharpen or 'touch up' the over 1/4" ones frequently.
The main trick is to not over heat them when sharpening and , like an old welder guy did, I keep a jar of water to cool them as I proceed.
For the smaller sizes I like to buy offshore assortments for cheap and have often been totally surprised as to the quality.
Often their main flaw is to be overly brittle but then brittle generally means hard and sharp.
That being said I also eyeball sharpen or 'touch up' the over 1/4" ones frequently.
The main trick is to not over heat them when sharpening and , like an old welder guy did, I keep a jar of water to cool them as I proceed.
For the smaller sizes I like to buy offshore assortments for cheap and have often been totally surprised as to the quality.
Often their main flaw is to be overly brittle but then brittle generally means hard and sharp.
vlcakc
Silver Member
BrokenTrack
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2018
- Messages
- 1,422
- Location
- Maine
- Tractor
- Tractors, Skidders, Bulldozers, Forestry Equipment
I use a hand held power belt sander to sharpen bits with good results, but only down to about 3/16 on an inch.
My method is to grind own the lip evenly, then on the last grind, at the last second, give the bit a quarter twist to take down the heel, and I am done. (Doing the same to the other side.)
My method is to grind own the lip evenly, then on the last grind, at the last second, give the bit a quarter twist to take down the heel, and I am done. (Doing the same to the other side.)
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,182
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
For many years I have sharpened all sizes by hand. To drive 40 minutes round trip just to buy a new bit when I can sharpen the old one doesn't add up. Even if I have to sharpen several times to get it right is still faster than going to buy a new one. I do keep several different sizes in stock but they only get used when the old ones are done.
There you go. That General Tools sharpener jig is a copy of the old Craftsman 6677 that I use. Since it relies on your own grinder, the results vary depending on the wheel you use. Also, he went heavy handed on that bit and blued the steel. It still performed very well.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
I don't just drive and buy ONE bit either, I buy several and if needed, I buy them when I'm already in town, just to have around.
SR
