Driveway markers

   / Driveway markers #61  
I did that, ended up blowing out the end of the cap (schedule 40 black iron pipe cap from Lowes), had to replace it with a schedule 80 cap.

Aaron Z

Obviously more bicep than me!
 
   / Driveway markers #62  
I made a mini-post pounder to put fiberglass sticks in. Just a length of iron pipe a bit larger diameter than the stakes and a threaded on cap at one end. Our soil was favorable for this approach, wouldn't work with a lot of rock. I put out about a hundred markers pretty quickly.

Yeah,
Had the barrel form an old hydraulic cylinder, welded a chunk of steel for the head and rebar for the hand grips.
Neighbors all borrow it. I don't mind as long as they return ASAP. (not nest month)
 
   / Driveway markers #63  
   / Driveway markers #64  
I used fiberglass chimney sweep rods that I got at a yard sale for less than $1.00 each.
They are sturdy at 3/8" and outlast the cheap 1/4" ones.
I also wrapped them with reflective tape for night time visibility.

Rebar also is very handy and durable. (just add paint)
 
   / Driveway markers #65  
I made a mini-post pounder to put fiberglass sticks in. Just a length of iron pipe a bit larger diameter than the stakes and a threaded on cap at one end. Our soil was favorable for this approach, wouldn't work with a lot of rock. I put out about a hundred markers pretty quickly.

That is the same post-pounder design I use. Been using it for several years now. The other benefit is that by driving the markers in until the pipe touches the ground it allows you to drive in all the markers to the same uniform depth. Considering they sell commercial marker "pounders" for around $60 I am happy with my $8.00 solution.
 
   / Driveway markers #66  
I use the cheaper 1/4 inch fiberglass rods to Mark my driveway. Offset about a foot from the edge. I have rocky soil so I just use a metal rod to create the hole and drop in the rods. I like them because if I hit them with the blower no problem.
 
   / Driveway markers #67  
On the driveway here the metal rod with some tape for constant depth to punch the holes works best. Saves the fiberglass from stone damage. An extra step but worth it in the long run.
 

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