Dry gas additive.

[tcreeley]

Local parts guy told me that I don't need to use NH 134 hydraulic oil in my NH TC 30. He had another hydraulic oil 20-25 dollars less than the 134. I asked what was different. He said the 134 had some additives for moisture. He said to just add a bottle of dry gas to the 9 gal. of oil when I changed it. Anyone else done this?

 

[John Morgan]

It's suppose to help with water contamination in lower ethanal gasoline. I wouldn't just add to hydraulic fluid and run. I know some fuel additives with strong deposit cleaners are used as a flush in hydro systems but they are not intended to leave in.

The dry gas info I've read talks about guarding against "dry rot" for over use. Seems like it would cause more trouble with hoses than it would help with your problem.

 

[Wolfy]

Not meeting Ford/NewHolland 134 spec is a bad idea. A $50 bucket sounds cheap compared to hydraulic issues. Some places meet that spec, that are slightly cheaper than name brand. Ive had good luck with Valvoline, and TSC.

 

[Skyco]

What a stupid recommendation by that "parts guy". "Dry Gas" is mostly methanol and it does not remove ANY moisture. It simply absorbs it into the alcohol which is then burned in an engine.
Hydraulic fluid is not burned of course so the resulting alcohol/oil mixture will be there indefinitely.
I'd run fast away from that "parts guy":thumbsup:

 

[tcreeley]

It was a New Holland dealership that told me this.

 

[Bird]

I certainly wouldn't want to contradict a tractor dealer, but there's no way I'd put that stuff in a tractor I owned.

 

[Wolfy]

Other brands will work. They all clearly state the specs. Take Kubota UDT for example. I know its rebranded Valvoline. I don't think you can wrong at Napa. That's where Id go.

 

[WilliamTO-35]

Methanol in " dry gas" will attack polymer seals and other parts . I would not use it in a hydraulic system. Some " dry gas" formulations of a similar nature are ethanol, which is not quite as bad, but as pointed out above, the alcohol simply combines with the water, but it's all still there. The main function of "dry gas" formulations is to combine with the water in the bottom of your fuel tank, and prevent it from freezing in cold weather, when it might clog up your fuel pickup or fuel pump. Adding alcohol to gasoline does not pull the water in the bottom of your tank up into solution with the gasoline. Small amounts of alcohol in gasoline does slightly increase the amount of water that the gasoline can hold, but we're talking parts per million ,and not the large quantities people expect.

 

[daman1]

That's funny,stick with the 134 spec oil.

 

[chopped]

I'd sooner go with just of the shelf hyd oil and not be concerned. Ive used off brands for the last 30 years all with no ill results..
Or just spend the extra and use waht they recomend...

 

[sweep]

Local parts guy told me that I don't need to use NH 134 hydraulic oil in my NH TC 30. He had another hydraulic oil 20-25 dollars less than the 134. I asked what was different. He said the 134 had some additives for moisture. He said to just add a bottle of dry gas to the 9 gal. of oil when I changed it. Anyone else done this?

As I mentioned on the NH thread, my NH dealer has stopped using generic hydraulic oil in tractors they repair or change fluids in. That tells you something. Too many people have come back over the years and said the tractor just never seemed to have the same performance after the fluid change. Generic fluid worked but some customers said it was slower, slightly jerkier or more noise etc...and those are the ones that said something.Others may have not said anything but went to a competitor.

They still sell the generic brand for DIY or for other tractors brands walk in's but try to persuade people to use the Ambra in their NH tractors.


It's not like you are changing the hydraulic fluid often. I would stick with the Ambra but would not use dry gas no matter what.

 

[chopped]

As I mentioned on the NH thread, my NH dealer has stopped using generic hydraulic oil in tractors they repair or change fluids in. That tells you something. Too many people have come back over the years and said the tractor just never seemed to have the same performance after the fluid change. Generic fluid worked but some customers said it was slower, slightly jerkier or more noise etc...and those are the ones that said something.Others may have not said anything but went to a competitor.

They still sell the generic brand for DIY or for other tractors brands walk in's but try to persuade people to use the Ambra in their NH tractors.


It's not like you are changing the hydraulic fluid often. I would stick with the Ambra but would not use dry gas no matter what.

Why would a dealer even use generic oil in the first place?He isnt paying for it.Unless they use it and only tell a select few that they are.
Of cource they would try to pursuade people to use this brand.

New Holland-Ambra Multi-G 134 Fluid

No different then teling people that a certain gas station is better than the other.My uncle delivered gas to four dfferent stations and it was all the same gas..

 

[sweep]

Why would a dealer even use generic oil in the first place?He isnt paying for it.Unless they use it and only tell a select few that they are.
Of cource they would try to pursuade people to use this brand.

New Holland-Ambra Multi-G 134 Fluid

No different then teling people that a certain gas station is better than the other.My uncle delivered gas to four dfferent stations and it was all the same gas..

Many dealers buy bulk oil and that is what they use out in the shop. They find an oil that works for them at the lowest cost. No the dealers are not paying for it but their customers are and many are looking for the lowest repair cost and are not concerned if the oil is generic...until it does not work as good as Ambra then they complain.