Dump Trailer Battery

[woody]

I thought about soldering but I was not sure of the type of solder to use and the solder I had was in some of my Dad's stuff so I didn't know about it either.
When I done my big trailer I used welding cable so I think it's gonna be alright, but my dump trailer was done with the CCA cable, it looks alright now but I do have what I need to redo it if I need too.

 

[bearthebruce]

look for 60/40 TinLead Rosin core solder.. If you want a slightly stronger joint, you can also use 63/37 TinLead...

Lead has been outlawed in many places and has been replaced by a combo of Atimony and others... It works but is not as easy to use.

 

[RayIN]

I've often wondered about co-owning equipment along those lines. It seems there would be a lot of opportunity. I know lots of people who own their own log splitters, purely for personal use, splitting a few cords per year. When you look at the hours any one splitter is used, it would make sense for several people to go in together and buy one nice one. The same could be said for more expensive equipment, perhaps things that no individual could financially justify owning.

Of course, co-owning equipment could also be a great way to ruin a friendship. I used to lend various equipment out to friends. I've learned my lesson. Anymore, the most complicated and expensive thing I lend out is a shovel. If things get much more expensive/complex than that, the loan comes with an operator (me). Then there is always that one person who can manage to break an anvil. How do you decide what is abuse or an accident that some individual should pay to repair vs normal wear and tear?

Last summer I loaned a neighbor my splittin mall i made at the shop; 10# head of brake die steel, with a Sch 80 2" pipe for a handle. He broke the handle, still haven't got it and my wedge back.
I know a man that went it with 3 others and bought a MH. Afer a few years he sold his share to the other 3. He said every time he used it there was something broken or worn out that had to be fixed before he could use the motorhome.

 

[John_Mc]

Not sure when I did mine with actual copper. But its still alive and kicking.

Actually, since I did the direct wire....I dont care about the trailer battery at all. I can completely disconnect the trailer battery and it still dumps fine.

I actually use that anderson connector now to power the transfer tank pump when Im not using the dump trailer.

Regarding blowing the fuse...I assume you mean the 12v aux fuse on the truck side?

Some of the "better" brand dump trailers dont have that issue because they isolate the dump circuit from the charge circuit when dumping. On the cheaper trailers the easiest way is to simply unhook the 7-way when dumping.

The trucks are usually fused at 30a maybe 40 on that 12v aux circuit. But the dump trailer dont know that. So when you go to dump it tries to pull amperage from both the truck and dump battery. If the dump batter is too weak it tries to pull too much from the truck.

Something else you can do is wire a little relay to isolate your truck.

Use pins 85 and 86 (control)....to energize the relay when the dump buttons are pushed. Simply wire 85 to the solenoid on the pump and ground 86.

The load side of the relay use the NC terminal 87a I think, and #30 for the truck charge to battery.

So the truck is always charging the battery.....except when you push the button to dump and it energizes that relay.....87a becomes open and wont blow truck fuse

I'd like to add that circuit to my dump trailer, when I finally get around to wiring it for on-road use. It has no lights or trailer connector at the moment, it's just a self-contained deep cycle battery with no connection to the tow vehicle.

What are these pin numbers you are referring to? I'm assuming they are something on a specific model of truck. However, if my controls are on the trailer, wouldn't I be wiring this on the trailer side as well? I'm assuming a normally closed relay, rated at the appropriate amperage for my charging circuit, with the coil of the relay energized by the dump button to open the relay contacts.

I have a single-acting cylinder, with gravity return, so no real need to isolate from the town vehicle for lowering the trailer: all it's doing is energizing the solenoid to open the hydraulic circuit for lowering.

The other thing I wonder about: my dump trailer has a deep cycle AGM battery, which is supposed to be charged to a slightly higher voltage than the traditional flooded lead-acid battery in my truck. If I recall, the difference is just a few tenths of a volt. (I do leave the trailer on a charger/maintainer with an AGM-specific charge cycle when not in use.) Is that an issue for one or both of the batteries to be connected together?

 

[Topzide]

For crimping larger wires/ connectors, you can get a 12 ton crimper off of Ebay for under $100. I picked up one last year, works great from 8ga up to 2/0. Have even made up some security cables by using lead bolt anchors.

 

[LD1]

I'd like to add that circuit to my dump trailer, when I finally get around to wiring it for on-road use. It has no lights or trailer connector at the moment, it's just a self-contained deep cycle battery with no connection to the tow vehicle.

What are these pin numbers you are referring to? I'm assuming they are something on a specific model of truck. However, if my controls are on the trailer, wouldn't I be wiring this on the trailer side as well? I'm assuming a normally closed relay, rated at the appropriate amperage for my charging circuit, with the coil of the relay energized by the dump button to open the relay contacts.

I have a single-acting cylinder, with gravity return, so no real need to isolate from the town vehicle for lowering the trailer: all it's doing is energizing the solenoid to open the hydraulic circuit for lowering.

The other thing I wonder about: my dump trailer has a deep cycle AGM battery, which is supposed to be charged to a slightly higher voltage than the traditional flooded lead-acid battery in my truck. If I recall, the difference is just a few tenths of a volt. (I'm do leave the trailer on a charger/maintainer with an AGM-specific charge cycle when not in use.) Is that an issue for one or both of the batteries to be connected together?

The pin numbers I reference are the numbers on the actually relay.

All little cube automotive relays use that numbering

 

[woody]

I'd like to add that circuit to my dump trailer, when I finally get around to wiring it for on-road use. It has no lights or trailer connector at the moment, it's just a self-contained deep cycle battery with no connection to the tow vehicle.

What are these pin numbers you are referring to? I'm assuming they are something on a specific model of truck. However, if my controls are on the trailer, wouldn't I be wiring this on the trailer side as well? I'm assuming a normally closed relay, rated at the appropriate amperage for my charging circuit, with the coil of the relay energized by the dump button to open the relay contacts.

some of us have added a relay to our trailers so the battery can be charged from the vehicle through the 7 way connector but the relay opens the charging circuit from the vehicle so it will not blow the fuse while operating the hydraulic pump. Also you can connect an led light to the relay which indicates the circuit is working.